Compact Bulldog Bone

Tachyon for me. Works great with the BDB. Most of the guys on this forum would probably say it's to stretchy though. I haven't really noticed that.
 
Maximalist said:
OK. I was referring to favorite rope for Bulldog Bone . Bulldog Boneworks well on all types of ropes?!
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Within a certain diameter range of size matched with a specific bollard system.. or now with the micro adjustability in the top arms Gordon created. More variety of lines are probably easily dailed in to perform well to the individual user. I think the bone works well with 11mm to 13mm well. All rope is so different ,even the same rope at a different point in its career of use that it the adjustment factor is great importance. I will convert to this new top arm, eventually. Problem is All Gordon's products currently are just holding up so well, maybe even get better each day :) it's hard to justify fixing something not broken right now.. All in all Tachyon is very good. Vortex good. Yale 11.7 with long top bollard good.Didnt care for all gear rocket line .. sterling Scion will see @Levi.CO I forgot to mention the only thing is with that bollard you have to align it before replacing rope back bone. So maybee that small loss of time doing so could be related to performance issue. I don't really let it bother me cause it's no big deal in my eyes. Then again I've climbed on 12 strand forestry pro with bone and it wasn't bad at all. Some made it seem most folly if I remember correctly. Lol I'm easy going but It's easy coming.:risas:
 
The bollard on the adjustable Bone wears faster because it is held from rotating by the adjustment screw, and should be replaced after 70-80 thousands of wear as you do not want it wearing through to the interior slot.
 
Yes, the remaining English words must have a subliminal message : )

Max wants to make a titanium bollard of his own design, and so I have looked into having the adjustable bollards made from titanium, but I would need about 10 pre-orders at 60.00 per bollard to make it worthwhile. What do you think about this idea?
 
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My dogs are non adjustable Gordon so I may be missing something but why Titanium? It is not lighter nor more wear resistant than a good grade Aluminum properly aged. I will also add to that by saying I did run a Titanium bollard in one of my RR's for awhile just because I could. A lot of money and time for me to machine and it wore at only a slightly less time scale than Aluminum. The cost vs gain was not worth it on a part that was so easy to replace when worn.
 
Nothing to contribute yet. Just want to say that I had the pleasure of meeting Gordon and his beautiful family at his house this afternoon. The man is a nice soft spoken, humble individual (if that wasn't already evident), whom I would gladly do business with again.

I was on the fence between this and a runner and will likely buy a runner or runner 2 when they come out just because, but it's nice to be within driving distance of the maker of the device. He took the time to personally point out and explain the device thoroughly, its quirks, things to look out for, and tips for its best performance. There's a lot to read here but having the maker actually show you is another thing. I'll definitely be getting a BOLA from him as well.

Thank you Gordon, as well as your lovely wife, for your hospitality this afternoon.
 
surveyor said:
Thanks Frank, that is good to know, as I have no experience with titanium.
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You may want to consider hard anodizing. It really does an excellent job of treating the surface ...almost as hard as granite. Take a look at the X-Rings. The abuse in surface wear those things tolerate before showing any brightness is unbelievable. I have a few things I plan on treating soon. ABR bridge ring, GRCS alum. bollard, .... anyway just a thought.
 
JustinK said:
Nothing to contribute yet. Just want to say that I had the pleasure of meeting Gordon and his beautiful family at his house this afternoon. The man is a nice soft spoken, humble individual (if that wasn't already evident), whom I would gladly do business with again.

I was on the fence between this and a runner and will likely buy a runner or runner 2 when they come out just because, but it's nice to be within driving distance of the maker of the device. He took the time to personally point out and explain the device thoroughly, its quirks, things to look out for, and tips for its best performance. There's a lot to read here but having the maker actually show you is another thing. I'll definitely be getting a BOLA from him as well.

Thank you Gordon, as well as your lovely wife, for your hospitality this afternoon.
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Having just purchased the adjustable BDB it would be interesting to hear some of the "quirks", "things to look out for", and "tips for best performance " you speak of.
Also what was the deciding factor to go with the runner over the bone?
Scotty
 
Nothing that wasn't already mentioned here in this thread as far as tending, what point to replace the bollard, which way to turn the screw and what what does to the bollard. It's all stuff I've read, but for me personally, i retain the information better if shown vs reading. I think I'm up to 45 pages of this thread from back to front, but a lot doesn't make much sense until you have it in hand.

As far as choosing one over the other, there are runners already being used at work. Not by me, but there to try. I can always order one. No one had a CBDB to try, Gordon is local, it's hand made, simplistic, and profits go to him and his coverage of materials.

While I'm not a "shop local" guru, and appreciate what Mr Bingham has brought to the table as well, I still have to go through a retailer. That's more of an excuse rather than valid reason. A lot of it probably has to do with "I want one of the two and I want it now". Gordon is about 1hr and 15min from my house with no traffic, and about 35min from my work.

Make no mistake about it, I like the rope runner while I've played with it. Ill own one too. Just the order I purchased things in.
 
Quirk. If you run the bollard adjustment to the end of its travel in either direction, it will stop at the end of its travel but if tight will make the swivel link stiff to swivel aside in order to install the rope, so back off a fraction of a turn from full stop. This is similar to how the chain gets tight on the bar on a chainsaw if you run it too tight.
 
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