Compact Bulldog Bone

I'm most comfortable in my sequoia with the rings adjusted as far back as possible, which kind of shortens the bridge. I'm also really small so I'm not sure if that would help. I climbed on it for a couple of months before I realized I could adjust it there. It made it way more comfortable for me.
 
Tried my bone on the prism I won. I ran the same bollard as the cougar. Same rope diameter. I loaded it and kept loading until I was sitting on the ground. Not gonna be using the prism. My son likes the color so it'll sit in the garage until he starts climbing with me. So disappointed
 
Hmmm....it's just another Yale 11.7mm. I've been very happy using the 3/4" bollard with Arrowfrog and Aztec Orange and Green.

I'm about 190+ lbs geared up. Which bollard did you use?
 
So just out of curiosity has anyone tried putting the spine hump towards the rope side. I have one of mine that way to try but it rained today so maybe I'll get a chance tomorrow. It looks like it would be perfect to apply just a tad bit of pinch and added friction.

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Tried my bone on the prism I won. I ran the same bollard as the cougar. Same rope diameter. I loaded it and kept loading until I was sitting on the ground. Not gonna be using the prism. My son likes the color so it'll sit in the garage until he starts climbing with me. So disappointed
Steve you gotta run the Yale 11.7 with 3/4 bollard at your wieght .
 
Well the problem is if I change up then I have to but another rope. I have. 150' and a 200' cougar in the tool box. The 200' is nearly new. Only use it for the big boys and the huge canopy prunes. The 150' is the go to rope 95% of the time. I'm not I terested in switching out bollards on the job site every time I change ropes. I'd rather get everything dialed in and leave it be. I find sticking with a 200' as my primary rope is a royal pita!! Too much rope getting trampled, tangled , and bombarded. I love the rope but.....
 
Best rope ive ever used. Even ddrt natural crouching with my ZZ lasted forever. Just the longevity alone was worth the higher price per foot. I usually replace thme because of gaff wounds rather than friction wear. My current 2 150' were longer and then nasty stuff cut off the ends and sent in for sewn eyes because they couldn't splice after use. I continue to generally get a full year or maybe more outa one. Then they are retired probably way earlier than a lot of climbers I've met along the way. The guys I work with always ask for my old lines. I don't do it. When they're retired they are retired. I have a box full of retired climbing lines. I keep saying I'm gonna learn how to make a rope rug but I ain't got no time Fo no rug!
 
Thanks for the concern...yes I remember very well all it's been said about it and to refresh my memory I just read it again now that you had mention it. I always avoided putting any weight into the spine hole because of what was said. I've been experimenting other possibilities and they do more damage than anything else. As soon as you make the spine or the links perform differently from what they are meant to the risk of not grabbing anymore increases. Strangely, with my ropes and the set up of bollards (I went from no bollard to the bronze one) this doesn't happen. Plus I don't lean completely on the harness but keep sort of a straight position and let some weight on the chesty and control the rope slack with the other hand. I really put some time into this and apparently it isn't bad at all. The key is that I could use it only when I really feel in need, charging more or less my weight on it...but yes, I am aware that anything can happen and if I feel unsafe all I would do is get closer to the rope and disengage the weight or even the carabiner from the shuckle.
Let me experiment more and see what happens...
I have to say that with the shuckle, the opening of the link becomes limited preventing it to go all the way back making it difficult to set the rope and becoming almost impossible with the 13mm one. If I cannot find a thinner shuckle then I think I will abandon the whole thing and that's it. Also I will add that there is a tiny slippage of the rope with Vortex but none at all with the Petzl Grip 13mm.
 
So just out of curiosity has anyone tried putting the spine hump towards the rope side. I have one of mine that way to try but it rained today so maybe I'll get a chance tomorrow. It looks like it would be perfect to apply just a tad bit of pinch and added friction.

View attachment 31395
I think someone posted that quite s few pages ago but not sure. In theory, it might be like one of those "baby bump" Rope Runners. I'll have to give it a shot to see what it does, but there may be little point since my Bone is currently working so well. I guess if the top arm release was easier and more modulated it could be a good thing.
 
My exact thoughts Eric. My RR had many variations of baby bumps and it did help me. The BDB works well also, I am just looking to dial it in to my own personal perfection.
 
So just out of curiosity has anyone tried putting the spine hump towards the rope side. I have one of mine that way to try but it rained today so maybe I'll get a chance tomorrow. It looks like it would be perfect to apply just a tad bit of pinch and added friction.

View attachment 31395
Ok so that does nothing, the bump moves out of the way on descent completely does not do what I was attempting. Maybe a well placed baby bump will but that is for a latter tweak.
 
Okay as crazy as that looks above it may be worthy of more thought. I just put weight on it and tended it a few times. It tended as it should and was silky smooth. I think it needs some more testing and probable tweaks but this may work.
 

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