Cabling tools

C

cory

Branched out member
I use EHS steel cable and want to start installing more 1/2" eyebolts instead of 1/2" lags, so that will mean increased drilling. I've always used a carpenters brace/drill but figure it is time to update to 21st century gear..

What do you guys prefer to drill with? What are the pros and cons of gas powered drills vs batt powered? What size batt power drill is needed to drill 9/16" x 18" holes in hardwood?

Thankyou for any info you can share!
 
Buy an 18 volt DeWalt drill for cabling, and a Milwaukee Hole Hawg for bracing. You'll need power for the latter, so a generator is a good idea.

I have run the gamut of electric and gas powered drills, and it took me a long time to figure this out. I still have a Ridgid instead of DeWalt, but that's because I have so much invested in batteries and chargers... If I could do it over I'd get a DeWalt.

-Tom
 
Bt45 for the 9/16" by 12" for cables and small rods. Big electric wrist breaker for big through bolts. We've got 1 1/8" bits up to 10' i believe, maybe longer.
 
I found the BT45 to be torque deficient based on it's size, weight and cost. Also, the chuck screw assembly is woefully underbuilt, and a real bitch to fix when the screw breaks off inside (read: take to machine shop!). The reverse machine thread screw is IMPOSSIBLE to find also, it must be ordered from Stihl.

-Tom
 
Echo EDR 260 gas powered drill is no different than an MS 200 on your belt. Very light and highly efficient. Used the Tanaka for over 20 years and just bought it on a whim as the Tanaka is still perfect. Glad I did for weight and balance improvement. Would just kill me to have a battery die when I am trying to finish a cable.

It will work for both apps.

Cabling is painful IMO but I have installed thousands of them.
 
Thanks for the responses!

I'm leaning toward an Echo. I already have so many 12 and 14.4 batts and drills, don't know if I'm up for buying into the 18v schlang.
 
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I'm leaning toward an Echo. I already have so many 12 and 14.4 batts and drills, don't know if I'm up for buying into the 18v schlang.

[/ QUOTE ]Eyebolts are definitely a step up from lags. Good move, but you wouldn't need the extra voltage with through-cabling. Much less wounding, too.
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Good move, but you wouldn't need the extra voltage with through-cabling. Much less wounding, too.
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Through cabling? As in rigguy?
 
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Good move, but you wouldn't need the extra voltage with through-cabling. Much less wounding, too.
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Through cabling? As in rigguy?

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yeah sorry if that is a derail
 
18 v dewalt for the J-lag installations. most are 5/8" lag, very seldom 1/2" lags; as most things that need cabling have the diameter that 5/8" is called for.

Got a Stihl gas powered drill for the through bolting. For cable anchors, it's usually 1/2" to 3/4" rod. For rods through big crotches, it's usually 3/4" diam rod, got extensions up to about 7 feet long.

I like the power of the Stihl gas drill with the good wood auger bits, but the hand tightening chuck on the stihl sucks for any bit that has a round shank; it slips.
 
Have any of you guys ever had success through-bolting, say a 40+ inch hardwood with the BT45? I found it woefully underpowered for this work. In fact, it would get straight up stuck in the tree and we'd have to remove the bit manually. The bit is a 48" X 11/16" diameter auger, and I had the problem since it was brand new, so it's not like it wasn't sharp. The secondary problem with this was that the chuck screw would break trying to remove the stuck bit. See my previous post about the chuck screw issue.

The Hole Hawg does not have these problems. Maybe the BT45 works better with smaller diameter bits? 5/8 rod is what was called for with these larger jobs, hence the 11/16 bit.

-Tom
 
[ QUOTE ]
Have any of you guys ever had success through-bolting, say a 40+ inch hardwood with the BT45? I found it woefully underpowered for this work. In fact, it would get straight up stuck in the tree and we'd have to remove the bit manually. The bit is a 48" X 11/16" diameter auger, and I had the problem since it was brand new, so it's not like it wasn't sharp. The secondary problem with this was that the chuck screw would break trying to remove the stuck bit. See my previous post about the chuck screw issue.

The Hole Hawg does not have these problems. Maybe the BT45 works better with smaller diameter bits? 5/8 rod is what was called for with these larger jobs, hence the 11/16 bit.

-Tom

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The whole deal with drilling since with me way back in 1970 with hand braces and corded huge drills and any drill now is you have to clean out the hole constantly. Pull the bit out and sometimes even run it against your hand or the bark to remove shavings. If you don't clean out the hole you will have troubles with finishing and installing.
 
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