Brake Bleeding

B

Bart_

Carpal tunnel level member
Location
GTA
Got a pin hole leak in a steel line today. Tried the vice grip crush/plug to preserve the other 3 wheels - failed first attempt, folded the tube 2nd attempt, brief success - then it failed too. So I limped back to my garage to replace the line. At some point it seems to me the industry changed the design of master cylinders so you can't gravity bleed the system. I guess to prevent fluid loss with an unknown leak as you drive. It seems you're stuck with the pump/crack assistant method but I tried my luck today with the vacuum method. You use a hand vacuum pump with an intermediate jar with two hard lines soldered to the lid as a vacuum reservoir and fluid receptacle. The other extra is remove your bleeder and use stiff grease like dielectric on the threads only and you won't suck air via the threads. The silicone stays out of the hydraulic circuit. My Dino uses DOT3...

I was pleasantly surprised to get my pedal back after two whooshes of bubbles and fluid with no assistant. Repairs usually put up more of a fight. :)
 
Bart_ said:
Got a pin hole leak in a steel line today. Tried the vice grip crush/plug to preserve the other 3 wheels - failed first attempt, folded the tube 2nd attempt, brief success - then it failed too. So I limped back to my garage to replace the line. At some point it seems to me the industry changed the design of master cylinders so you can't gravity bleed the system. I guess to prevent fluid loss with an unknown leak as you drive. It seems you're stuck with the pump/crack assistant method but I tried my luck today with the vacuum method. You use a hand vacuum pump with an intermediate jar with two hard lines soldered to the lid as a vacuum reservoir and fluid receptacle. The other extra is remove your bleeder and use stiff grease like dielectric on the threads only and you won't suck air via the threads. The silicone stays out of the hydraulic circuit. My Dino uses DOT3...

I was pleasantly surprised to get my pedal back after two whooshes of bubbles and fluid with no assistant. Repairs usually put up more of a fight. :)
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I never used a vacuum bleeder, but have used a pressure bleeder. Pretty much a pita, as you have to have the adapter to fit on the revisor
 
On the topic of brakes, cupronickel or steel? I've had bad luck with aftermarket steel, i.e. my post, and have moved to cupronickel. Much easier to flare and form.
 
Bart_ said:
On the topic of brakes, cupronickel or steel? I've had bad luck with aftermarket steel, i.e. my post, and have moved to cupronickel. Much easier to flare and form.
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I’m with you there. Either pre-bent stainless, or that copper based material is all we will use.
 
I just learned that the local Napa will custom bend and flare lines. They didn't upcharge on the cost of the lines. They only charged $20 in labor and did it while I waited... I wish I had known that before I borrowed a junky flare tool from Advance Auto (it wouldn't hold the line toght, so didn't make a good enough flare, but I tried anyhow, and not surprisingly, they leaked...)!
 
ATH said:
I just learned that the local Napa will custom bend and flare lines. They didn't upcharge on the cost of the lines. They only charged $20 in labor and did it while I waited... I wish I had known that before I borrowed a junky flare tool from Advance Auto (it wouldn't hold the line toght, so didn't make a good enough flare, but I tried anyhow, and not surprisingly, they leaked...)!
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Double flares for break lines of course
 
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Tom Dunlap said:
Double flares for break lines of course
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Yes, the tool I had was made for double flare brake lines. However the "teeth" that hold the line while the flare presses down were worn ... so the line slipped through partially instead of getting fully flared.
 
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I made the mistake of initially buying a flaring tool from an automotive parts store and about 8 failed flares later the tool's threads bit the dust so I returned it, showing the counter guy all the failed deformed flares. I told him they should be embarrassed to sell such junk. Then I got a Rigid kit from an industrial HVAC supplier - 1st try every time, no leaks.

Tom, you ever do those weird conical ball shaped "flares" like they used on the Saturn cars? Those guys just had to be different with that car. My friend calls his the Satan. :)
 
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Keep tubing, fittings, unions in the garage for those off hour or Sunday repairs. I misjudged slightly and almost blew my 5 footer on the tight side. Thankfully it arced over the differential. Tweaked the arc.
 
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