Best $25. I spent in a long time.

[Shadowscape]

Got a torn shoulder thing going on as well. Took a couple of days to show up, or I was concentrating on my broken ribs and pinky finger and didn't notice. Jaw is getting back to normal. Can't quite figure out what happened to that. Thought it might have been an earmuff getting slammed into it, but now I don't think so. Doesn't matter. What is, is.
Thing to do is put the screamer on my side of the crotch, between the anchor rope and my MRS pulley. I still would have slammed into the tree, but maybe not so hard. I had kicked away from the stem as hard as I could to get my lines over a stub that was about 18 inches long. That is when it let go. I basically turned into a wrecking ball. Only the wrecking ball got wrecked.

 

[DSMc]

Tough injuries, I hope you heal fast and completely.

I have set enough lines in similar situations to know how dangerous it can be when you can't clearly see the path the rope has traveled. My method of dealing with the possibility of a break or tear-out is to first take a deep breath and except that things are going to go slower than planned. Using a second line and system, choke the stem. As you ascend with foot and knee ascenders, use the second system as a flip-line as you go. This feels similar to spurring up, just not as easy and will safely catch you if a break-out occurs.

 

[Shadowscape]

Tough injuries, I hope you heal fast and completely.

I have set enough lines in similar situations to know how dangerous it can be when you can't clearly see the path the rope has traveled. My method of dealing with the possibility of a break or tear-out is to first take a deep breath and except that things are going to go slower than planned. Using a second line and system, choke the stem. As you ascend with foot and knee ascenders, use the second system as a flip-line as you go. This feels similar to spurring up, just not as easy and will safely catch you if a break-out occurs.

Very sound advice, and should have been followed.

 

[southsoundtree]

Tough injuries, I hope you heal fast and completely.

I have set enough lines in similar situations to know how dangerous it can be when you can't clearly see the path the rope has traveled. My method of dealing with the possibility of a break or tear-out is to first take a deep breath and except that things are going to go slower than planned. Using a second line and system, choke the stem. As you ascend with foot and knee ascenders, use the second system as a flip-line as you go. This feels similar to spurring up, just not as easy and will safely catch you if a break-out occurs.

I find rope walking with toes against a vertical trunk with a flipline to be very smooth.




I've contemplated a Screamer. Maybe I'll consider it again.

It can be attached midline between two butterfly knots on the rope, with the appropriate amount of slack between butterflies (difference in length between sewn and deployed).

 

[27RMT0N]

I find rope walking with toes against a vertical trunk with a flipline to be very smooth.

Yep, it's awesome when you are just taking deadwood out of a fir, and can leave your ascenders and flip-line in place the whole way. Just 'walking' up the trunk making cuts, till you are at the live limbs and ready to return to the ground.

I hope your recovery is going as well as it can be Shadowscape.

 

[Bart_]

You don't have to keep rope in parallel with the screamer because after it tears all the threads out it's just a 20 kN or so life support rated draw. There is a softer one rated 15 kN.

Some rigging/screamer math. A simple rule from another discussion was you/log (CofG) falls distance X at 1G and if you apply 2G's stopping force you be brought to a stop also in another distance X. 2 G's because 1G is already there you fighting gravity and the other 1G is "getting you slowed down" at an effective net 1 G. So if we have 1.5 tension ratio, tear out at 750 lbs climber side, a 375 lb climber would experience 2 G's and take as far to stop as he free fell. Say you're 187.5 lb climber you're experiencing 4 G's of which 3 G's is net braking effort. So you'll stop in quite a bit shorter distance than you free fell. bit of an argument for running a softer screamer or on the climber side.

I'll bring up a bad word Kong made a screamer alternative where a rope segment tether would hold your normal weight but slip under higher load. It zig zagged the rope through a plate with round holes and offered the advantage of as long of stroke as the rope segment skidding. But it was a Kong device. Presume you put it in parallel with your life support line, putting slack in your life support line that would come out if/when the device triggered/stroked out. Could be good if done right. By eye screamers have a pretty short stroke. Anyone know how long? I'm guessing a foot to foot and a half.

 

[Shadowscape]

You don't have to keep rope in parallel with the screamer because after it tears all the threads out it's just a 20 kN or so life support rated draw. There is a softer one rated 15 kN.

Some rigging/screamer math. A simple rule from another discussion was you/log (CofG) falls distance X at 1G and if you apply 2G's stopping force you be brought to a stop also in another distance X. 2 G's because 1G is already there you fighting gravity and the other 1G is "getting you slowed down" at an effective net 1 G. So if we have 1.5 tension ratio, tear out at 750 lbs climber side, a 375 lb climber would experience 2 G's and take as far to stop as he free fell. Say you're 187.5 lb climber you're experiencing 4 G's of which 3 G's is net braking effort. So you'll stop in quite a bit shorter distance than you free fell. bit of an argument for running a softer screamer or on the climber side.

I'll bring up a bad word Kong made a screamer alternative where a rope segment tether would hold your normal weight but slip under higher load. It zig zagged the rope through a plate with round holes and offered the advantage of as long of stroke as the rope segment skidding. But it was a Kong device. Presume you put it in parallel with your life support line, putting slack in your life support line that would come out if/when the device triggered/stroked out. Could be good if done right. By eye screamers have a pretty short stroke. Anyone know how long? I'm guessing a foot to foot and a half.

That Yates shorty screamer open up to about 22 inches, give or take.
I was half tempted to do a little experimenting with restitching it myself and see what it was capable of but decided at $28. for a new one my time could be better spent doing something else, besides, Yates has already figured all that out and I know what I am dealing with. Have a couple on order already and will probably incorporate them into my climb lines from now on. I don't have an issue with entering things into my climb system as long as I know they are rated for such use.

 

[Bart_]

The shorty screamer eye to eye length unactivated is not published. Can you estimate it?

edit - it's 7" from a rock/ice climbing forum. 22" - 7" = 15" of absorption. Yates makes an industrial one that offers 48" of absorption and claims to absorb a 6 ft fall. I'd vote for that one on the basal side. If you want to stack the odds in your favour put two industrials in series on the basal side and keep the shorty climber side. That ought to suck up over 12' of airtime. You could go down in history as a safety innovator/pioneer.

Or better yet package it as a ready to go basal anchor system and market it with Arborella branding and pricing.

 

[Bart_]

Looking up Kong Kisa and similar ilk I came across these rock climbers with an effectively SRT basal (belayer) setup and they pondered why the basal side tension was so much less than the climber side. This tension ratio from the basal tied tip forces thread

W40 0.471 dia big steel biner 1/2 wrap tension ratio 1.86 mu 0.197

explains it pretty well as their TIP was a biner.

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