Don’t get me wrong Rog, I wasn’t complaining about the weight of the chains. I watch down at guys lifting and carrying huge logs and brush all day….and while I’ll get down and help out when I can, I wouldn’t dare start whining about managing a little weight in the tree. I had a much tougher time just stripping out a bunch of skinny 40ft limes in a grave yard the previous day….I really had to pull my finger out to get through them all. The beech, while a much bigger and more complex operation, was by far the easier task.
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I'd didn't like the way those chain hooks looked to be away from the tree a bit......
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Sorry, I don’t quite get what you mean?
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If you stay up near the top of the log, the operator can help maneuver the choker around the log, so all you have to do is hold the middle with the bell in that hand, and the end. Then, it can be move down enough for a safe set...
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I get him to dump a pile seated on the top of the log, however much I think is needed. Then I’ll set the choker before slipping it around and down the log. Its when I set the second one that they start kinda getting in each others way….but a couple of minutes adjustment and we’re ready to go. The logging chokers do sound more user friendly for sure.
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Both me and my operators like to have the bells near each other, but directionally opposed. This automatically opens the kerf when cabling up, and makes it much easier to set the log down. But with shorter logs, it doesn't pick off as vertically.
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I get ya. I had to make that provision to prevent last log from hitting the fence, the other stuff was either leaning anyway or a little short and the bite set relatively low down because of the trunk taper.
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but I asked what your slings were made of and their construction. You said dead eye up a few posts....were they adjustable, or did you just tie them as needed and leave some tail?
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http://www.honeybros.com/gbu0-prodshow/HB91PA.html
I usually, first put in a series of marls to use up any excess and then finish with a Timber hitch or running bowline. This is handy should you need to set the bite in a relatively weak part, like out near the tips but you can still set the choke further down in stronger wood….so if the weak part should break, at least you don’t loose the load.
Dont mean to state the obvious in my replies, but just so it’s clear.
JaminMayor, to answer your question in the vid section: there was an opening on the fence side at the base so you could get your arm in and feel around.
Thanks