Treetopflyer
Been here much more than a while
- Location
- Coastal N.J
Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
Being as this is southeastern Pennsylvania, it is hard to say. The ground here has so much limestone and granite, it is rare a tooth doesn’t get worn out by a rock first. That being said, I would guess 15 to 20 hours? I wish I knew, I just know that we change a few teeth every day mostly because they have hit rocks.View attachment 99743View attachment 99744How many hours of grind time typically does one get from the new river teeth
When you’re not hitting stupid concrete landscaping blocks grown over in the root flare..?
Thanks reach , Have you tried the saber tooth from new river? Do you order your teeth from where?Being as this is southeastern Pennsylvania, it is hard to say. The ground here has so much limestone and granite, it is rare a tooth doesn’t get worn out by a rock first. That being said, I would guess 15 to 20 hours? I wish I knew, I just know that we change a few teeth every day mostly because they have hit rocks.
I have not tried the Saber Tooth, we usually order teeth from Gap Arborist Supply, or local rental and used equipment dealer we work with.Thanks reach , Have you tried the saber tooth from new river? Do you order your teeth from where?






Yes, on the SG75 you can adjust the swing speed on the remote, you can also distance the head drops each time you hit the Down switch, to take more or less aggressive cuts with each pass. Great feature, once you get used to it. Also, the way the head backs off from the cut each time the engine bogs makes it more efficient than the grinders that just slow their swing speed.If you replace them in pairs/sets, the balance won't be meaningfully affected; no reason I see that you couldn't run them as leads.
I don't know that there's enough weight difference anyways.
I don't know if it's possible to adjust feed speed remotely on the SG75, but on the RG80/RG165 it is. On the lead up/grinding roots I adjust the sped higher, say 70-100%. On the main part of the stump I slow it down to 20-30% to take larger bites. With the 165 I am thinking of adding more teeth to be able to take a deeper bite, it's not uncommon for me to have to reduce my depth of cut a bit because the uncut portion is dragging on the wheel/pockets. The leads still wear faster than the sides, but deeper cuts spread some of the wear out a bit.
I have never heard of that modification, but I am intrigued. Any chance you can find some pictures of it? I would love to see those, and perhaps make my own version of it.My subcontractor has this grinder. He's coming from a vermeer sc60tx and he loves the bandit.
I don't have any pictures of it, or know if it's custom or an available mod, but he added a cylinder and mat over the carriage. As it builds up with chips while he grinds, he can press a button and it dumps all of the chips forward towards the wheel. Like a little flatbed dump.
I don't often see him grinding, he comes a day later, but I can ask him for pics/videoI have never heard of that modification, but I am intrigued. Any chance you can find some pictures of it? I would love to see those, and perhaps make my own version of it.
He said he is running it off of a diverter valve off of the blade. . The outer edges bolt on, allowing them to come off and narrow the tracks for going through gates.I have never heard of that modification, but I am intrigued. Any chance you can find some pictures of it? I would love to see those, and perhaps make my own version of it.
Looks pretty slickHe said he is running it off of a diverter valve off of the blade. . The outer edges bolt on, allowing them to come off and narrow the tracks for going through gates.
It seems to work very well. He has a lot of time in it in from conception and trial and error to now but he's 99% done with it and likes it. He plans to replace the diverter valve this winter with an electric one so all he has to do is flip a switch. Currently he opens the door and operates it by hand so that the remote function for the blade operates the dump.Looks pretty slick
I love it! Sure beats sticking your foot in there all the time to clear that thing out before going to the next stump. Only change I would want to see is making the wings foldable somehow, so you don’t have to unbolt them. I might have to get creative someday.He said he is running it off of a diverter valve off of the blade. . The outer edges bolt on, allowing them to come off and narrow the tracks for going through gates.
Took the words right out of my mouthLooks pretty slick
That's exactly why he said he added it, to prevent leaving a trail when going from stump to stump.I love it! Sure beats sticking your foot in there all the time to clear that thing out before going to the next stump. Only change I would want to see is making the wings foldable somehow, so you don’t have to unbolt them. I might have to get creative someday.
Seems there has to be a way to do it. Or maybe make the side flaps of a heavy rubber of some sort, something like a horse stall mat, or one of those stiff mudflaps? Something that has some give to it that the tracks can push in, but won’t bend too much when flipping grindings? Has to be an easier way, just not sure yet what it is.That's exactly why he said he added it, to prevent leaving a trail when going from stump to stump.
I could see folding being nice, however it also leaves an opportunity for one to get hinged into an upright position and to hit the grinder when you actuate it. Perhaps a thin sheet metal or a reinforced plastic and a couple of pins to remove it?