Treetopflyer
Been here much more than a while
- Location
- Coastal N.J
How many hours of grind time typically does one get from the new river teethWhen you’re not hitting stupid concrete landscaping blocks grown over in the root flare..?
Bandit SG-75
- Thread starter Treetopflyer
- Start date
How many hours of grind time typically does one get from the new river teethWhen you’re not hitting stupid concrete landscaping blocks grown over in the root flare..?
Reach
Been here much more than a while
- Location
- Atglen, PA
Being as this is southeastern Pennsylvania, it is hard to say. The ground here has so much limestone and granite, it is rare a tooth doesn’t get worn out by a rock first. That being said, I would guess 15 to 20 hours? I wish I knew, I just know that we change a few teeth every day mostly because they have hit rocks.
Treetopflyer
Been here much more than a while
- Location
- Coastal N.J
Thanks reach , Have you tried the saber tooth from new river? Do you order your teeth from where?
Reach
Been here much more than a while
- Location
- Atglen, PA
I have not tried the Saber Tooth, we usually order teeth from Gap Arborist Supply, or local rental and used equipment dealer we work with.
Edit: I wasn’t quite awake when I made my first comment there, we use GreenTeeth, not New River, so I’m giving you bad information. New River teeth probably last longer than GreenTeeth.
Lumberjack
Branched out member
The Saber Tooth will cut more like a Green Tooth, at the expense of a faster wearin and less durable edge compared to the standard teeth.
My experience was New River teeth lasted considerably longer (2-3x) than Green Teeth, but cut considerably slower.
My experience was New River teeth lasted considerably longer (2-3x) than Green Teeth, but cut considerably slower.
Treetopflyer
Been here much more than a while
- Location
- Coastal N.J
I’m going to try the sabers on my next order
Gonna find out if I can mix them in on just the leads or somthing to that effect.
Kinda hard to see in these pictures.
This morning I added a piece of old rubber bed mat to add to the undercarriage protection will see tomorrow how that acts and some danger flying debris signs on the wings
Gonna find out if I can mix them in on just the leads or somthing to that effect.
Kinda hard to see in these pictures.
This morning I added a piece of old rubber bed mat to add to the undercarriage protection will see tomorrow how that acts and some danger flying debris signs on the wings
Lumberjack
Branched out member
If you replace them in pairs/sets, the balance won't be meaningfully affected; no reason I see that you couldn't run them as leads.
I don't know that there's enough weight difference anyways.
I don't know if it's possible to adjust feed speed remotely on the SG75, but on the RG80/RG165 it is. On the lead up/grinding roots I adjust the sped higher, say 70-100%. On the main part of the stump I slow it down to 20-30% to take larger bites. With the 165 I am thinking of adding more teeth to be able to take a deeper bite, it's not uncommon for me to have to reduce my depth of cut a bit because the uncut portion is dragging on the wheel/pockets. The leads still wear faster than the sides, but deeper cuts spread some of the wear out a bit.
I don't know that there's enough weight difference anyways.
I don't know if it's possible to adjust feed speed remotely on the SG75, but on the RG80/RG165 it is. On the lead up/grinding roots I adjust the sped higher, say 70-100%. On the main part of the stump I slow it down to 20-30% to take larger bites. With the 165 I am thinking of adding more teeth to be able to take a deeper bite, it's not uncommon for me to have to reduce my depth of cut a bit because the uncut portion is dragging on the wheel/pockets. The leads still wear faster than the sides, but deeper cuts spread some of the wear out a bit.
Reach
Been here much more than a while
- Location
- Atglen, PA
Yes, on the SG75 you can adjust the swing speed on the remote, you can also distance the head drops each time you hit the Down switch, to take more or less aggressive cuts with each pass. Great feature, once you get used to it. Also, the way the head backs off from the cut each time the engine bogs makes it more efficient than the grinders that just slow their swing speed.
- Location
- Wilmington, NC
We have a 2021 SG75 that grinds right-of-way stumps almost exclusively. It's had a few issues that others have already mentioned, but it's been a good machine overall. We regularly grind some pretty massive oak stumps here in SE North Carolina, and find plenty of hidden treasures (water meter boxes, sewer cleanouts, manhole covers completely covered by root flare and not marked...). We grind to nearly max depth, sometimes beyond, because we're generally replanting street trees in the exact same spot. Bandit has made improvements since we bought our machine, and the local dealer has been awesome to work with. Pretty solid machine if you take care of it.
Treetopflyer
Been here much more than a while
- Location
- Coastal N.J
Jehinten
Been here much more than a while
- Location
- Evansville
My subcontractor has this grinder. He's coming from a vermeer sc60tx and he loves the bandit.
I don't have any pictures of it, or know if it's custom or an available mod, but he added a cylinder and mat over the carriage. As it builds up with chips while he grinds, he can press a button and it dumps all of the chips forward towards the wheel. Like a little flatbed dump.
I don't have any pictures of it, or know if it's custom or an available mod, but he added a cylinder and mat over the carriage. As it builds up with chips while he grinds, he can press a button and it dumps all of the chips forward towards the wheel. Like a little flatbed dump.
Reach
Been here much more than a while
- Location
- Atglen, PA
I have never heard of that modification, but I am intrigued. Any chance you can find some pictures of it? I would love to see those, and perhaps make my own version of it.
Jehinten
Been here much more than a while
- Location
- Evansville
I don't often see him grinding, he comes a day later, but I can ask him for pics/video
Jehinten
Been here much more than a while
- Location
- Evansville
He said he is running it off of a diverter valve off of the blade. . The outer edges bolt on, allowing them to come off and narrow the tracks for going through gates.
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VenasNursery
Been here much more than a while
- Location
- Michigan
Looks pretty slick
Jehinten
Been here much more than a while
- Location
- Evansville
It seems to work very well. He has a lot of time in it in from conception and trial and error to now but he's 99% done with it and likes it. He plans to replace the diverter valve this winter with an electric one so all he has to do is flip a switch. Currently he opens the door and operates it by hand so that the remote function for the blade operates the dump.
Reach
Been here much more than a while
- Location
- Atglen, PA
I love it! Sure beats sticking your foot in there all the time to clear that thing out before going to the next stump. Only change I would want to see is making the wings foldable somehow, so you don’t have to unbolt them. I might have to get creative someday.
Treetopflyer
Been here much more than a while
- Location
- Coastal N.J
Took the words right out of my mouth
Jehinten
Been here much more than a while
- Location
- Evansville
That's exactly why he said he added it, to prevent leaving a trail when going from stump to stump.
I could see folding being nice, however it also leaves an opportunity for one to get hinged into an upright position and to hit the grinder when you actuate it. Perhaps a thin sheet metal or a reinforced plastic and a couple of pins to remove it?
Reach
Been here much more than a while
- Location
- Atglen, PA
Seems there has to be a way to do it. Or maybe make the side flaps of a heavy rubber of some sort, something like a horse stall mat, or one of those stiff mudflaps? Something that has some give to it that the tracks can push in, but won’t bend too much when flipping grindings? Has to be an easier way, just not sure yet what it is.
