Any way to remove a clutch/sprocket *without* jamming-up the cylinder?

Frankie 1

New member
Location
Buffalo
Thanks for such a thorough reply, very appreciated!!

Some Q's:

- Re porting you refer to it as "Increasing cut-speed"....was that just a manner of speaking, or were you meaning to imply/explain that port jobs are more of a speed thing than a power / torque thing? I know they are related to a degree but am curious if you had more to say on this!

- 20-25% gain in cut speed (or torque/power)? That is most-definitely enough that I'd take on such a project (I don't wanna go buy a 60cc when I have a 40cc, but am not yet able to justify some 75-100cc saw, so if I can eek some more from my 40cc and put a 24" on it I'll be peachy for the next quarter year ;D )

- Re fuel-economy losses....I kinda see this two ways:
#1 - The relative fuel-economy of each configuration (IE, if the porting makes it go through fuel 20% quicker, am I also getting a 20% gain in power? Of course not, but if it's a 20% loss in fuel efficiency, for a 2.5% power gain, that's unacceptable...if it's a 20% gain for a 22% efficiency-loss, then that's basically just "turning-up the power"
#2 - Even if it's a pretty rough loss - say, 10% power-increase for 20% more fuel used - I don't necessarily see that as bad... Sometimes the MOST important thing is simply being sure the saw can push-through a cut (when cutting in-tree, to avoid the bar getting pinched, to ensure a log swings on a hinge the way you needed it, etc....my thinking has always leaned to the side of I'd rather just refill the tanks more often, honestly I rarely need a 2nd fill while aloft as I rappel down more often than most I would guess (as I solo rig most stuff so am always up&down as I work through something!)

Thanks again for such a thorough reply, think I may be able to embark on this mission (obviously this isn't a climbsaw, but I have a climbsaw I reallllllly wanted to port but just didn't want to risk trying on that machine, so kinda looking for a trial candidate, if I can get 15% power for a 20% fuel loss on my rear-handle that would work for me ;)
Properly done mods (imho) will increase Air-flow thru the engine. More Air=More Torque which will translate into increased cutting speed. Flow and velocity are paramount as we are talking chainsaws which are direct drive with no gears. There are many porting schemes that work and it all depends on how far you want to go (machine work to tighten squish , widening ports ) and how long you want the saw to last( piped cookie cutter vs worksaw) By increasing torque you are also increasing HP and thereby increasing cut speed. An everyday worksaw that will increase cut speed by 20-25%+ over a stocker with minimal increase in fuel consumption AND have great longevity is what I want in a built worksaw , YMMV . A piped cookie cutter that will increase cut speed by 80% is a different kettle of fish.....Here’s a piped 660 that I built. Not a true “race saw build” by any means. I can remove the pipe, install muffler, retune carb and go cut wood and vice-versa, This saw could produce much faster cut times with additional work/tuning IF desired ....
 
Last edited:

eyehearttrees

New member
Location
Tampa-Area
Before going the porting route and eagerly addressing Mr Frankie's awesome posting, I wanted to say thanks as the impact gun (with confident force & position and just torque the hell out of it) made it come off as-if that were the normal/routine manner, don't think I'll ever stop-up a cylinder again (hrrmm maybe if my saw wasn't so cheap, I wouldn't be so careless Re its flywheel keyway getting sheared :p )

But..potential problem...right as I removed the plastic bushing thing at the shaft//engine interfacing, to clean&grease the area, a spring "spilled out" at me...I am 99% that my lil work-table was clear...this spring fits the threaded portion of the shaft but no further...saw runs great now and, in the saw's schematics, I cannot locate this spring...but it didn't come from nowhere lol
a.jpg
seems like it belongs here but there's no spot...but it didn't just appear outta thin air!! :p
a2.jpg a3.jpg a5.jpg but saw runs great now, except for the loose bit inside its muffler but that spring sure as shit didn't come out of the muffler, so I have an "extra" spring now :p
Properly done mods (imho) will increase Air-flow thru the engine. More Air=More Torque which will translate into increased cutting speed. Flow and velocity are paramount as we are talking chainsaws which are direct drive with no gears.
Very glad to get a reply from someone like you on this one!!

I agree in fact I mod my saws with just this in mind IE opening the airboxes (filtering this, of course), mufflers, and then obviously juicing up the carb to match this....I'd love your thoughts on airflow in 'regular' saws, I hear these claims of "air induction", "air filtering" etc but so far as I can see they all rely on using the airflow from the flywheel to both cool the engine and to 'feed' the airbox, but the airbox isn't getting "pressurized" /boosted air it's still just atmostphere or barely-past that...would seem (IMO) smarter to just let the carb intake/air filter suck from clean, cooler atmospheric air (passively via openings in airbox) than the hot&dusty flywheel air...this setup also forces more air around the block & out past the muffler, cooling better.


There are many porting schemes that work and it all depends on how far you want to go (machine work to tighten squish , widening ports )

Is it fair to say they all / mostly rely, primarily, upon increased displacement?

By increasing torque you are also increasing HP and thereby increasing cut speed
I...I imagine all 3 go up but didn't think the correlation between them was a truly linear correlation (or maybe I'm misunderstanding how you phrased that)

An everyday worksaw that will increase cut speed by 20-25%+ over a stocker with minimal increase in fuel consumption AND have great longevity is what I want in a built worksaw
The meat&taters....is 20-25% what the guys w/ modded 200t's are getting? There is an amazing lack of actual quantification, blew my mind when I realized I couldn't find any hard #'s for guys selling this work (ie selling porting jobs, but not advertising what #'s you're achieving with your work)....doesn't necessarily mean it's not closer to 20% but doesn't tell me it's not more like 7%...and 7% is hardly worth tearing apart a saw and changing it's "natural"/defaults (well I guess it's "to each his own" but machining work to the block, I have to wonder what it'd cost if I said "I want my 200t to be ported", and how much % stronger it'd be after yknow?)

A piped cookie cutter that will increase cut speed by 80% is a different kettle of fish.....Here’s a piped 660 that I built.
That..that is frickin' beautiful can I ask if you know any specs like just how much faster than stock that is? I know the 660 is a revered saw anyways but I was giggling/laughing watching it eat that log (what kinda wood is that? obviously a bit different ripping Poplar versus Oak ;D )
 

Frankie 1

New member
Location
Buffalo
Before going the porting route and eagerly addressing Mr Frankie's awesome posting, I wanted to say thanks as the impact gun (with confident force & position and just torque the hell out of it) made it come off as-if that were the normal/routine manner, don't think I'll ever stop-up a cylinder again (hrrmm maybe if my saw wasn't so cheap, I wouldn't be so careless Re its flywheel keyway getting sheared :p )

But..potential problem...right as I removed the plastic bushing thing at the shaft//engine interfacing, to clean&grease the area, a spring "spilled out" at me...I am 99% that my lil work-table was clear...this spring fits the threaded portion of the shaft but no further...saw runs great now and, in the saw's schematics, I cannot locate this spring...but it didn't come from nowhere lol
View attachment 76730
seems like it belongs here but there's no spot...but it didn't just appear outta thin air!! :p
View attachment 76731 View attachment 76732 View attachment 76733 but saw runs great now, except for the loose bit inside its muffler but that spring sure as shit didn't come out of the muffler, so I have an "extra" spring now :p

Very glad to get a reply from someone like you on this one!!

I agree in fact I mod my saws with just this in mind IE opening the airboxes (filtering this, of course), mufflers, and then obviously juicing up the carb to match this....I'd love your thoughts on airflow in 'regular' saws, I hear these claims of "air induction", "air filtering" etc but so far as I can see they all rely on using the airflow from the flywheel to both cool the engine and to 'feed' the airbox, but the airbox isn't getting "pressurized" /boosted air it's still just atmostphere or barely-past that...would seem (IMO) smarter to just let the carb intake/air filter suck from clean, cooler atmospheric air (passively via openings in airbox) than the hot&dusty flywheel air...this setup also forces more air around the block & out past the muffler, cooling better.
* STIHL saws get a k/n with outerwears , not a fan of the twist on filter though grease will help
* Husqvarnas have excellent filtration so I leave em stock - (572,395’s)
Is it fair to say they all / mostly rely, primarily, upon increased displacement? *negative I...I imagine all 3 go up but didn't think the correlation between them was a truly linear correlation (or maybe I'm misunderstanding how you phrased that)
* I test my saws in the wood when stock and modded , always with torque as the end goal

The meat&taters....is 20-25% what the guys w/ modded 200t's are getting? There is an amazing lack of actual quantification, blew my mind when I realized I couldn't find any hard #'s for guys selling this work (ie selling porting jobs, but not advertising what #'s you're achieving with your work)....doesn't necessarily mean it's not closer to 20% but doesn't tell me it's not more like 7%...and 7% is hardly worth tearing apart a saw and changing it's "natural"/defaults (well I guess it's "to each his own" but machining work to the block, I have to wonder what it'd cost if I said "I want my 200t to be ported", and how much % stronger it'd be after yknow?)
* IF I were having a saw built and didn’t get at least 20% on the business end after shelling out $350 + I’d be disappointed and send it back for further surgery

That..that is frickin' beautiful can I ask if you know any specs like just how much faster than stock that is? I know the 660 is a revered saw anyways but I was giggling/laughing watching it eat that log (what kinda wood is that? obviously a bit different ripping Poplar versus Oak ;D )
 

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