another helmet cam with a dead pine

[DanielSon]

here is a pine from a while ago.

Click Here

If any one has any saftey comments I am open.

specifically, the first time I transfered to the spar I was a bid concerned. I didnt really like cliping into it. however, I didnt have a pole saw either. So other than the pole saw idea, anyone have any other ideas to get over there?

(or any other comments)

THnaks

DanielSon

 

[Colin]

Danielson

You mentioned in your other video you didn't know about split tail. Instead of using the tail of your lifeline for the hitch you have a short seperate piece of rope.

What I do in similar situations when cleaning palms in clusters is throw my lanyard around the palm and pull myself in close then spike it.

Sometimes if I cant reach it I have a pole with a hook on it to get the lanyard back to me.

Here's a picture of your set up.

 

[Colin]

And the advantage of a split tail is you can use a different coloured rope to make life easy plus when you wear out the hith you don't have to cut bits off your lifeline. In this picture the yellow rope is the split tail which gets hitched to the tail of the climbing line.

You can and I do use 1 carabiner, in USA you have ANSI standards and must girth hitch that to the biner where in the picture it is not.

The orange rope is the working end of the lifeline, it's what you unclip from the biner and throw over the next branch and clip back in. Many people have a spliced eye in the end but not me ... I prefer a knot.

 

[WPArborist]

You could have tied the whole tree off at the top then cut it at the bottom.

Nice video work.

WP

 

[Colin]

When I do this I spear cut the base about 1m high toward the tree thats holding it up at an angle of about 60 degrees toward the ground, then slowly cut a slab ... lower, cut a slab ... lower till ya done.

Be careful, risky with a dead bugger.

I do the spear cut sometimes in 2 parts

 

[Kevin]

It appears as if there was room to drop the entire tree without any climbing.
That's a good way to make time when you get the opportunity.
Get a rope in the top and pull it over while cutting the bottom.
Nice video.

 

[DanielSon]

[ QUOTE ]
It appears as if there was room to drop the entire tree without any climbing.


[/ QUOTE ]

No,
there wasnt.
The branches would have hung up in the top and possible busted the tree in half---folding it back toward the fence.

Thanks for the thought though.

 

[DanielSon]

Thanks Ekka!

That was super informative. I have seen split tail systems in the books, but never took the time to understand why they were a benifet.

they seem WAY faster. I hate having to untie everything to get over a branch just to have to retie it all again.

It seems that the split tail could be replaced by a mechanical decender? like a lock-jack?

is that safe to have lock jack as your only life line?

Also, in your video of lanyard techniques, when you were first giving the example of a 2nd tie in point for blocking down material.----- DO you think my illistration (see attatchment) would make for a safe situation?

Thanks

DanielSon

 

[allmark]

Re: Thanks Ekka!

It would work if the biner of the climbing line was attatched to the lock jack. The way it is illustrated the lock jack would not work. I would keep it simple and cheaper by using a rope for the split tail and tie a knot you are familiar with already.

 

[MikePoor]

Re: Thanks Ekka!

Danielson, the split tail has too many advantages! I know you've already heard about keeping 2 hands on the saw but I also noticed from your other video, you use undercuts to remove limbs. If you are going to undercut you should do it first then cut from above (make sure the top cut is right above the undercut or in closer on the limb. If you cut out past the undercut you're chain could get caught in the limb pulling the saw to the ground) I'm only saying this because i think it will really help. Thanks for posting the vids.

 

[Jamin_Mayer]

Re: Thanks Ekka!

The one hand/push technique is not good practice. Snap cuts would be much safer. Or, notching would be great too.

 

[Colin]

Re: Thanks Ekka!

[ QUOTE ]
I hate having to untie everything to get over a branch just to have to retie it all again.

It seems that the split tail could be replaced by a mechanical decender? like a lock-jack?

[/ QUOTE ]

Yes it can, but over here Lock Jacks are $400 and a piece of rope to do the same thing is $10

[ QUOTE ]
is that safe to have lock jack as your only life line?

[/ QUOTE ]

I would say yes, it's simply a replacement for a rope hitch, however in that diagram shown I'm not sure if the Lock Jack works OK SRT??????

[ QUOTE ]
Also, in your video of lanyard techniques, when you were first giving the example of a 2nd tie in point for blocking down material.----- DO you think my illistration (see attatchment) would make for a safe situation?

[/ QUOTE ]

No, sorry but I cant agree with

1/ Cross loading a carabiner
2/ Having the potential for the rope to be on the gate if the carabiner rolls over/turns over
3/ Having the gate rubbing against the tree

Here are benefits of tying a bowline

1/ I would say most people proficient of tying a bowline would do it under 10 secs

2/ You dont have to buy a carabiner

3/ You can have a long tail tied on the bowline so that you can move down the spar say 15' with the choked highline in place to assist your balance and then retrieve the choked bowline.

4/ It's one less thing in your system to go wrong. KISS principal

Replacing that knot with a carabiner or snap hook is not as safe IMHO.

 

[No_Bivy]

Re: Thanks Ekka!

Use a running bowline instead of a biner to attach the SRT. Now that you know the split tail, try a closd system like a VT or scwabish, before your tendonitis gets bad from advancing the split tail. Try it you'll like it.

 

[Toparboring]

Re: Thanks Ekka!

I use the split tail system and do like it. As said before the 1 handed sawing is bad practice. Great vid and good work close quarters and ya did a good job.