All Gear Tech Cord friction saver questions

Location
Philly
I just finished making a friction saver for a co worker of mine. With all of this talk about high mod rope fibers failing, what is your guys' take of using this type of cord in this application?

http://www.treestuff.com/store/catalog.asp?category_id=127&item=722

I think it will work good, but I'm not 100%. I think it's ok because it is not covered. You should be able to see the wear and tear the item is taking and retire the item before it would fail.

The issues with the high mod bridge failure is due to not being able to inspect the internal load bearing fibers?
 
This would not be my top choice to build a friction saver of this cordage for it picks to easily like tenex. Instead build your friction savers out of 16 strand and they will be bomb proof.
 
Ya I feel ya but this will ride nice as a secret weapon on SRT. My guess would be this item would see far less wear and tear than being on a bridge. It would either be on an SRT line in a VT or slung around a limb. Not cycled to hell and back on a bridge.
 
I made a multi sling out of hrc and mostly use it as a friction saver. I'm about to cut it and splice another one up out of somthing else. I'll dissect it and post pictures to see what kind of wear it has had over the past 6-8 months.
 
[ QUOTE ]
Not cycled to hell and back on a bridge.

[/ QUOTE ]
Yes! This (flexing) might be the actual issue with the failed bridges, assuming the failure reports are accurate.

As a hitch cord, the intended use, the rope rubs a lot but flexes very little. For a bridge, on the other hand, heat resistance is useless but flex resistance is paramount. Polyester, nylon, and HMWPE are all known to be far more flex resistant than technora or vectran, so they would seem to be the first choice for bridge material unless one KNOWS that vectran or technora hold up well in that application.
 
I have seen a few versions that Norm has posted using this same type of cord, but with all of this failure talk i get nervous.

I think I'll give all gear a call on monday to get the words from them. The website says good for prussik uses but I have it setup to be used primarily as a friction saver. I would think the wear and tear would be approx the same but better safe than sorry. The bend ratio of a good sized limb compared to a bridge is quite different.
 
Two thoughts / questions on 8 mm Tech Cord from a novice:

Used as a secret weapon, or a prussic w/ thimble on a work positioning lanyard, the cordage will always be flexed in EXACTLY the SAME location every single time !
Is that a "zero" bend radius ? (Granted it is only a few degrees)
That does not seem like a good thing.

I was told this summer, by someone knowledgeable, that the small 8 mm diameter prussic could cause the climbing line to fail, if shock loaded.
Don’t know what the evidence / experience was.

Thoughts of others ?
 
[ QUOTE ]
I have seen a few versions that Norm has posted using this same type of cord, but with all of this failure talk i get nervous.

[/ QUOTE ]

True.
Mine are used as a hitch cord only (for a secret weapon). Not as an FS.
I would not recommend using this cord in that application. The fibers will rub against each other, causing self abrading.

There are better choices available for FS applications.
 
[ QUOTE ]
[ QUOTE ]
I have seen a few versions that Norm has posted using this same type of cord, but with all of this failure talk i get nervous.

[/ QUOTE ]

True.
Mine are used as a hitch cord only (for a secret weapon). Not as an FS.
I would not recommend using this cord in that application. The fibers will rub against each other, causing self abrading.

There are better choices available for FS applications.

[/ QUOTE ]


Bah, I had a feeling. This cord is what I had on hand and after making a few hitch cords with the materiaI, thought I would do the friction saver as it too. Then in hind sight the abrasive properties got me thinking.

I'm still going to call all gear before I dismantle it.

I do agree there is better cord. Any suggestions? I like tenex just for the sheer fact it's cheap and easy to splice. Or something not high mod fiber maybe OP or 16 strand.

Oh well it looks so nice and the cross over was so smooth.
 
Jman, I think New England's Safety Blue, Hi-Vee, or Ultra-Vee would be best for a FS. I'm pretty sure the core comes completely out and relies on two long crossovers. That's what Jim did with mine. I'm sure the overall length would play a role in the crossover...
You can check out the homemade pulley saver thread in climber's talk and find the links to the videos I just posted. It might give you a few more ideas.
 
Yuh 16 strand is the way to go. Pull the core completely out, follow the instructions for a 16 strand taper, then splice it like a hollow braid e2e.
 
I did some short I think 28" ring to ring with 16the strand, used a taper and xover in the middle, if you were gonna do like a 10' FS, would you leave the core in to save on rope or do a super long bury? What would people say would be the tipping point in length between pulling or not pulling the core?

Edit for spelling, I hate the autocorrect on my phone.
 
Good question, Jeff. One which I think Jim would be able to answer. I'll ask him and see. I wondered the same thing as we were building ours, but just never raised the question.
 
I think it's just a matter of what your willing to go through to make something. You could pull the core out of twenty feet of 16 strand but it would seriously suck.
 
[ QUOTE ]
so after the core is removed you just splice it like i splice my tenex slings? locking brummels and taper then burry?

[/ QUOTE ]

Sort of, you want to taper it per the 16 strand inst. I've heard that you can do brummels but it's totally not necessary.
 
Jeff, Jim says he switches to a regular splice @ 8'. Still a crossover @ 6'. I'm gonna try to get him to chime in here...
 
sweet. i just ordered a 20' section of spearmint from wesspur to practice making this splice. i need some sharper scissors.
smirk.gif
 

New threads New posts

Back
Top Bottom