Adjustable Bridge

Jamin_Mayer

Jamin_Mayer

Location
Longmont, CO
Call it what you want, adjustable bridge or a floating bridge...

I'm wondering if anyone uses an adjustable bridge in their T.M. harness. The T.M. has the 2 small holes for the bridge cord, which makes it difficult to modify for and A.B.

Any good ideas for this?
thinking.gif
 
Hey Jamin,

I've tried it with a kong duck. Attached with a biner through the same webbing loops that the little rigging plate does.

It "kind of" worked but i weren't real happy with it.

I like the compact size of the duck, but were concerned about it being released unexpectantly.

And i'd prefer to be attached to the rigging plate, but it seemed to take up to much of the bridge when in "short" limiting side to side movement.

I need to spend some more time it to get it right.

Anyone else nailed this on a TM???
 
i put a rope man ascender between the green ring and the knot on on my tm and it works great. my croll stays flat to my chest on single line and my footlocking prussic stays tangle free. I haven't put in a line long enough to go fully adjustable aka have my bridge so long i can pull from under my fair lead pulley in a dynamic system, but i will be playing with that in the future. good luck
 
Colin. Can you post a pic? If not, PM me and I'll help you through the steps.

Tom. I really like your set up, but I can't see it working well with the T.M. "funky rings" (for lack of better terms). Because that set up would conflict with the usage of a lanyard. I really like to use the lower rings for the lanyard. It takes off the stress in the back and makes it so that the harness doesn't creep into the ribs...

And Trev, I was thinking of a similar idea with the Duck.

But, here is what I was sort of wanting to try. I'll try to explain it the best I can:

On the side of the bridge that would be prefered to be adjusted simply use the small hole to our advantage of making it adjustable. (Meaning, run the bridge cord through the hole). Smaller cord could then be anchored off to the sides of the "funky rings", but with a mini V.T. to hold the cord on the bridge (for the adjustment). I don't have any small cord at the moment, but I'll get some tomorrow and try it.
 
here is a pic attempt i cut off the wire thingy and attach my rope man to my saddle via a clevis bungeed to my saddle, then a caribiner going through that. when not in use I can detach the rope man from my bridge and store it there.
 

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Jamin,

Here's a pic of, I think, Cormac's adjustable bridge. The idea needs to be refined.

A triple wrap Klemheist for the hitch and terminating the ends onto the green plate. Work down the slack in the tails and it will adjust smooth.

If you use New England Tech cord be sure to tie triple wrap scaffold hitches and it doesn't hurt to stitch the tails too.
 

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[ QUOTE ]
here is a pic attempt i cut off the wire thingy and attach my rope man to my saddle via a clevis bungeed to my saddle, then a caribiner going through that. when not in use I can detach the rope man from my bridge and store it there.

[/ QUOTE ]

Interesting...
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I'll have to try that too.
 
Cbugg,

The Ropeman's axles have a breaking strength of 15kN, well below ANSI standards.

Are you using the RM as a stopper? It looks like when you load the bridge the top of the RM jams against the outside of the green plate. If this is what you're doing I'm sure that it does work...but...that is NOT the way that the RM was designed to work. Consider changing the configuration. so that the load is taken by a biner in the cheekplate hole.

http://www.wildcountry.co.uk/Products/AscentDecentBelay/RopemanMK1/
 
[ QUOTE ]
Jamin,Here's a pic of, I think, Cormac's adjustable bridge. The idea needs to be refined.

[/ QUOTE ]

Yep, that's sort of the ticket I was trying to explain. But, I can see this will conflict with lanyarding into the ring. But, it is simple and effective, just too much slop.
 
[ QUOTE ]
Jamin....I think that you can reduce the slop like I did on my swivel-snap lanyard.

[/ QUOTE ]

I think you're right. I'm going to do some fiddl'n around tomorrow.
 
Mike Skillin had an adjustable bridge on a BFII that was pretty nice but I can't remember exactly how it was rigged. I think it was Ultra-Tech with a 5/16" Tech Cord adjuster.

After dissecting my broken Vectran bridge I'm of the opinion that bridges see a HUGE amount of bending/compression cycling and the forces are metamorphic in proportion. That, combined with moisture can turn high tech braids into homogeneous mush.

Whatever you use, it needs to be easy to inspect the load bearing elements.
 
What about folded layered and sewn nylon web bridges??

My TreeFlex is showing no signs of real wear and I climb a lot. I have a Sequoia SRT on the way, it too has a web bridge, I'm thinking the webbing bridges are tougher for our line of work.

I have had 2 rope bridges on my cougar and they both have hemorrhaged.
 
Webbing is an excellent choice because the fibers are designed to take more flexing than rope fabric. It's hard to imagine how long a webbing bridge would last compared to a fiber bridge.
 
Well, a lot of the better saddles have web bridges, the BF's, Eldrid Tree-magics, the TreeFlex, the Petzl Sequioas,Tree Austria, Skylotecs... I'm sure there are lots more too.

Just seems like a tougher, easier to check for wear material to use for a bridge.

The fact that the rope ones have a jacket on them makes it tough to know what lurks beneath.
 
Are you using the RM as a stopper? It looks like when you load the bridge the top of the RM jams against the outside of the green plate. If this is what you're doing I'm sure that it does work...but...that is NOT the way that the RM was designed to work. Consider changing the configuration. so that the load is taken by a biner in the cheekplate hole.



i hear you on this Tom. I have been asking around at a lot of comps and posting it on here because I know it is not what the device was made for. however I do still have the stopper knot on my bridge behind the rope man so due to that judges have given it the ok.
 
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