Addressing hitch binding with the Rope Wrench on descent

So I've spent every day of the past week climbing trees at the local park (presently out of work!) and have noticed the Michocan Hitch slips from time to time when using a Canopy tie versus the Base Anchor, where it locks immediately and is very responsive.

Do you folks change your hitch based on your anchor?
 
Perhaps the basal anchor, having more rope, stretches less than a single leg of rope, allowing the hitch to grab better. Did you happen to notice if the slipping occurred the entire length, or more towards the top or bottom?
 
As far as I recall it would slip at any stage of the climb unless I set the hitch manually with each fraction of ascent. On odd occasion it would set by itself. Using the basal it will always set as I sit back.
I can't put an extra coil on my hitch because it's too short!
I think I'll play with a few hitches specifically for canopy ties and report back..
 
I'm on the heavy side and that extra coil really does make a big difference, when trying to avoid slippage. I also find the Michocan to be a very compact and efficient hitch knot on the Rope Wrench. Strangely, I when from a longer eye-n-eye to a shorter 28". Maybe your's is under 28". It may also have something to do with the relationship between the hitch cord and your climbing line's diameter.
 
TrunkMonk said:
As far as I recall it would slip at any stage of the climb unless I set the hitch manually with each fraction of ascent. On odd occasion it would set by itself. Using the basal it will always set as I sit back.
I can't put an extra coil on my hitch because it's too short!
I think I'll play with a few hitches specifically for canopy ties and report back..
Click to expand...

One advantage of SRT is that you can use hitch cord without the eye splices, so that the length of the hitch cord can be adjusted by just moving the position of the knots. There is no worry about the termination knots bumping the hitch, as can happen with DdRT and the Hitch Climber pulley. It is a lot cheaper to just buy straight lengths of hitch cord by the foot, also.

Tim
 
TrunkMonk said:
So I've spent every day of the past week climbing trees at the local park (presently out of work!) and have noticed the Michocan Hitch slips from time to time when using a Canopy tie versus the Base Anchor, where it locks immediately and is very responsive.

Do you folks change your hitch based on your anchor?
Click to expand...
I’ve tried to use the Michoacán on several occasions and it always slips on me. I always use the distel or knut with 9.3 epi
 
TrunkMonk said:
So I've spent every day of the past week climbing trees at the local park (presently out of work!) and have noticed the Michocan Hitch slips from time to time when using a Canopy tie versus the Base Anchor, where it locks immediately and is very responsive.

Do you folks change your hitch based on your anchor?
Click to expand...

This is an interesting observation, and unfortunately I cannot shed any light on the question, as I always base tie, and have not yet played around with canopy anchors.

I just wanted to register a second vote for the Knut hitch, which is my favorite so far.

Tim
 
Yeah, the knut is one I have never tried, either. Will check it out next chance I get. How is everyone doing, riding out this Arctic blast? Just heard it hit 55 below somewhere over near Chicago. Right, SwingDude, no need for you to answer!
 
TrunkMonk said:
Michocan Hitch for me folks.
Hands down
Click to expand...
Yes I agree. I have found for me that the Michocan works the best. I use it with a Hitch Climber set up, with 11mm Yale Blaze Rope. I use New England 8mm Prusik cord. Five wraps on a 26" cord, keeps it close and set back is at a minimum.
 
TimBr said:
One advantage of SRT is that you can use hitch cord without the eye splices, so that the length of the hitch cord can be adjusted by just moving the position of the knots. There is no worry about the termination knots bumping the hitch, as can happen with DdRT and the Hitch Climber pulley. It is a lot cheaper to just buy straight lengths of hitch cord by the foot, also.

Tim
Click to expand...
I don't see what your saying here. I don't see any reason why you couldn't use tied e2es DdRT. Of course using a termination knot on the climbing line DdRT can pose serious problem.
 
Mark De La Cruz said:
Yes I agree. I have found for me that the Michocan works the best. I use it with a Hitch Climber set up, with 11mm Yale Blaze Rope. I use New England 8mm Prusik cord. Five wraps on a 26" cord, keeps it close and set back is at a minimum.
Click to expand...

Welcome to the Buzz, Mark!

I'm impressed you can put 5 wraps on 26". Is it really small diameter? I use a 28" 9.3 epi sewn for 5 wraps.
 
climbstihl said:
I don't see what your saying here. I don't see any reason why you couldn't use tied e2es DdRT. Of course using a termination knot on the climbing line DdRT can pose serious problem.
Click to expand...

Ah, yeah, I must have been feeling a little loopy when I wrote that. Late at night, just before bedtime, kind of thing. The termination knot on the climb line was what I was thinking of. In my confused way at that time I was trying to answer a question about how to get a better fit for the length of hitch cord. Thanks for your post, you are correct.

Tim
 
Thank you colb!

Yes that's correct. It is a tight hitch however, I took the time to stretch it out end to end and measure it again today. From eye to eye it is 27"long. I make my own hitches and they vary as much as 1". I use a fisherman's knot at the terminations ends of the hitch. They are very compact and there is little to no set back. Another thing that I like is that it self tends very well and is responsive in a 3 to 1 MA. set up. It does not matter If I connect the bite to the top of my hitch climber pulley or take a bite from under my pulley to self tend.
 
Reg said:
I've posted this before, but this tree was about 220 give or take.....in case youre wondering how it looks ip thete Tim. A skinny one mind, whilst the one I may or may not get to prune is a big old fat thing.


I've pruned others that have been up and around 170.....but it makes sense to work a tree that size in vertical spans, ie a top half and a bottom half. 2 x 200 ft lines will get it done.
Click to expand...
Holy shit thats up there..good job man. Ive watched alot of your videos on youtube. But this is either the first post of yours i came across on here. Or just the first time i noticed who it was.
 
After using a large majority of the lines available for SRS ive found tying the Michoacan with 28" HRC is my go to as it will always do its job. I fine tune it afterwards with different cordage and lengths. Recently I went to a 30" OP using a 6 wrap Michoacan and it runs like using a mehanical.
 
ive been running a 28" 8mm ocean tied in a 4 wrap catalyst hitch with the rope wrench and drenaline for a year now and its worked flawlessly every single time no matter what the weather is doing. using a figure 8 for descents i get 6 months out of the hitch cord. very good combo worth a try for sure.
 
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