Access rope - sideloading the carabiner?

[Winch]

All you have to do to make a carabiner safe, loaded or unloaded, for hanging on is add a half hitch below it, and cinch it tight before working off the line. Very similar to rigging a piece of wood with a 'biner, except you don't cut the piece, you just hang from it.

At least that's what I've been doing, easy and never do I see the carabiner move...

Of course, when it's time to move down the spar, and I have two methods of attachment, I usually skip the half-hitch.

 

[southsoundtree]

What is the legality of a screw-link, whether tightened with a wrench or not?

 

[bonner1040]

I use the ISC Big Dan for any time I need to cinch the rope in SRT. Clipping it into an eye splice with the gate facing the opposite direction of the load is super bomber.

The gate strength is 3600lbs and the major axis strength is 50kn. https://www.treestuff.com/store/images/pdf/bigdan.pdf

When using a base tie I always use this biner. On a slick barked/smooth tree I tie an 'almost cow hitch', clipping the biner to standing line instead of bringing the final turn under the bend where you normally finish with half-hitches. Then a butterfly gets tied above it all, in the event of a rescue tie another climbing line to the butterfly loop, take a wrap or two and cut my line below the butterfly.

 

[SingleJack]

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I agree with Oceans.
Krabs are not designed for that application. Delta links are. Be sure to "wrench tighten it".

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Tie a double loop figure 8 or bunny ears, put the other side of the rope between the loops and capture it in there with the biner. I use it every day

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I need somebody to paint a picture for me.

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Delta with dedicated wrench and rope tail pull-down (88 Knot)

Delta with throw-line pull-down (88 Knot)

 

[Tom Dunlap]

If you choose to 'wrench tighten' any screw link be very careful not to overtighten.

The nut/sleeve has six sides or flats. If you finger tighten the sleeve make a mental note where one flat or edge is located. Then only tighten it by turning one more flat...no more.

Over tighening bends the link and deforms the threads. Not only does this do damage you might not be able to loosen the sleeve without using a longer wrench.

 

[oceans]

The delta link in use should be rated for strength in all 3 directions, and include the torque spec for the gate. The torques will vary based on the wire size (diameter) in mm. Mine is only 3 newton/meters...not much, like Tom stated.

The torque chart is at the bottom of page 2:

http://www.petzl.com/files/all/technical-notice/Sport/MAILLONS-RAPIDES.pdf

 

[moss]

[ QUOTE ]
If you choose to 'wrench tighten' any screw link be very careful not to overtighten.

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10/4 I always finger tighten to snug, never loosens on a cinched SRT anchor setup. Since I deal with a lot of delta links facilitating rec climbs on New Tribe harnesses I carry a wrench, folks who assist me putting people in harnesses sometimes over-tighten by hand and I'll need the wrench to open them.
-AJ

 

[SingleJack]

I agree with Tom &amp; Andrew. When I use a delta on my saddle, it's finger tight - and carry a wrench (JIC). When I use a delta on the TIP it's wrench snug, <u>not tight</u>. Since it's remote, I don't want any tree 'fingers' loosening it.

 

[Tom Dunlap]

SJ,

As usual, you've come up with a brilliant solution to a problem. In this case...wrench storage! Why store it when it can be self-contained?!

When my tools get here later this month I'm going to root around in my 'extras' drawer and find a box end to customize for each screw link size that I own.

 

[Colin]

"Delta 88" set-up....I like the name! Took me a while, but I got it...lol

Cheers,
Donny