Tr33Climb3r
Participating member
- Location
- Wisconsin
Can anyone give me a diagram and instructions to make one...I know you take out the core to do it but I need some measurements and what goes where and how to taper it. Thanks
16 strand Ring and Ring FS
- Thread starter Tr33Climb3r
- Start date
- Location
- SE PA
You can go to samson rope's website and see their splicing instructions for 16 strand there. Just have to do an eye n eye sling with a ring in each right?
Tr33Climb3r
Participating member
- Location
- Wisconsin
[ QUOTE ]
You can go to samson rope's website and see their splicing instructions for 16 strand there. Just have to do an eye n eye sling with a ring in each right?
[/ QUOTE ]
yes i know how to do a 16 strand splice but i need measurements for when i do a eye and eye with two rings yes
You can go to samson rope's website and see their splicing instructions for 16 strand there. Just have to do an eye n eye sling with a ring in each right?
[/ QUOTE ]
yes i know how to do a 16 strand splice but i need measurements for when i do a eye and eye with two rings yes
- Location
- rhode island
What measurements do you need? I just treat it like a hollow braid once I've removed the core.
Tr33Climb3r
Participating member
- Location
- Wisconsin
[ QUOTE ]
What measurements do you need? I just treat it like a hollow braid once I've removed the core.
[/ QUOTE ]
and what does treating it like a hollow braid mean?
What measurements do you need? I just treat it like a hollow braid once I've removed the core.
[/ QUOTE ]
and what does treating it like a hollow braid mean?
NickfromWI
Participating member
- Location
- Los Angeles, CA
Casey- let me start by saying, "please don't take this the wrong way."
I think you are not finding or getting the answer you're looking for because this is one of those instances where the answers you're looking for have not been premade by the manufacturer for everyone to have and use. This is a situation where splicers have assessed the rope, the "official" splice, and the application and then created a version of the official splice to fit the specific application.
People are hesitant to give the answer because it would be an unofficial answer and in a way, there is some sort of liability (maybe not in a legal sense because I'm not sure anyone could be held legally liable for advice given on an online forum...but that's a whole 'nother conversation) if they go out on a limb.
So starting from there, let's look at the 16 strand splice and how it works. The 2 major aspects of the splice are the taper of the cover tail, and the crossover.
The taper is where the strength and security of the splice comes from. You take out too many strands and there won't be enough compression to hold the eye together.
The crossover merely serves as a transition from the cover tail (which will now become the core) to the original core strands inside the rope.
So to make a short eye-eye sling, you must replicate those two components.
I think most people in most cases will maintain the same taper pattern (marking every 5th pair of strands) for the two tails, then modify the crossover as needed. For starters, it's convenient to keep the crossover at 11" so that you can just proceed with the two cover tails as you would when doing the normal splice. As you get better at it and understand the physics and process of it, you can modify that taper without affecting the strength of the overall piece.
So as you're asking for measurements, I think the responsibility falls back on you. Determine the overall length of the finished piece you're looking for here, then lay the rope out and verify that you have enough room to do everything you need to do.
There's a very good chance that the first one you try will turn out to be absolute crap. Make a note of what you did on the first one and fix the errors for the second one.
Once you start doing it, I think you will find that we can help you with specific roadblocks along the way.
love
nick
I think you are not finding or getting the answer you're looking for because this is one of those instances where the answers you're looking for have not been premade by the manufacturer for everyone to have and use. This is a situation where splicers have assessed the rope, the "official" splice, and the application and then created a version of the official splice to fit the specific application.
People are hesitant to give the answer because it would be an unofficial answer and in a way, there is some sort of liability (maybe not in a legal sense because I'm not sure anyone could be held legally liable for advice given on an online forum...but that's a whole 'nother conversation) if they go out on a limb.
So starting from there, let's look at the 16 strand splice and how it works. The 2 major aspects of the splice are the taper of the cover tail, and the crossover.
The taper is where the strength and security of the splice comes from. You take out too many strands and there won't be enough compression to hold the eye together.
The crossover merely serves as a transition from the cover tail (which will now become the core) to the original core strands inside the rope.
So to make a short eye-eye sling, you must replicate those two components.
I think most people in most cases will maintain the same taper pattern (marking every 5th pair of strands) for the two tails, then modify the crossover as needed. For starters, it's convenient to keep the crossover at 11" so that you can just proceed with the two cover tails as you would when doing the normal splice. As you get better at it and understand the physics and process of it, you can modify that taper without affecting the strength of the overall piece.
So as you're asking for measurements, I think the responsibility falls back on you. Determine the overall length of the finished piece you're looking for here, then lay the rope out and verify that you have enough room to do everything you need to do.
There's a very good chance that the first one you try will turn out to be absolute crap. Make a note of what you did on the first one and fix the errors for the second one.
Once you start doing it, I think you will find that we can help you with specific roadblocks along the way.
love
nick
Tr33Climb3r
Participating member
- Location
- Wisconsin
[ QUOTE ]
Casey- let me start by saying, "please don't take this the wrong way."
[/ QUOTE ]
Don't worry about that. I thank you a lot for taking the time to explain what you did. I was asking for measurements just so I have a place to start at and go from there. (just the way my mind works best) I thank you for explaining what you did and I will give it a try.
Casey- let me start by saying, "please don't take this the wrong way."
[/ QUOTE ]
Don't worry about that. I thank you a lot for taking the time to explain what you did. I was asking for measurements just so I have a place to start at and go from there. (just the way my mind works best) I thank you for explaining what you did and I will give it a try.
NickfromWI
Participating member
- Location
- Los Angeles, CA
So how'd it go?
Tr33Climb3r
Participating member
- Location
- Wisconsin
- Location
- rhode island
That looks good. I have an idea for you. Splice the ring on and leave a long tail, then put the cocoon on some prussic chord and make yourself an adjustable friction saver.
flyingsquirrel25
Carpal tunnel level member
- Location
- South East, PA
[ QUOTE ]
That looks good. I have an idea for you. Splice the ring on and leave a long tail, then put the cocoon on some prussic chord and make yourself an adjustable friction saver.
[/ QUOTE ]
I believe there will be pictures of this very soon. One of the guys I work with is just putting the finishing touches on his now. Its REALLY sweat.
That looks good. I have an idea for you. Splice the ring on and leave a long tail, then put the cocoon on some prussic chord and make yourself an adjustable friction saver.
[/ QUOTE ]
I believe there will be pictures of this very soon. One of the guys I work with is just putting the finishing touches on his now. Its REALLY sweat.
Tr33Climb3r
Participating member
- Location
- Wisconsin
[ QUOTE ]
That looks good. I have an idea for you. Splice the ring on and leave a long tail, then put the cocoon on some prussic chord and make yourself an adjustable friction saver.
[/ QUOTE ]
Thanks man and i have one that i made earlier that i posted on here that was adjustable but i didnt care for it all that much. I might take it out for when i am on spar work though
That looks good. I have an idea for you. Splice the ring on and leave a long tail, then put the cocoon on some prussic chord and make yourself an adjustable friction saver.
[/ QUOTE ]
Thanks man and i have one that i made earlier that i posted on here that was adjustable but i didnt care for it all that much. I might take it out for when i am on spar work though
tomthetreeman
Participating member
- Location
- Rhode Island
[ QUOTE ]
That looks good. I have an idea for you. Splice the ring on and leave a long tail, then put the cocoon on some prussic chord and make yourself an adjustable friction saver.
[/ QUOTE ]
As soon as I can afford a cocoon, I may need a favor, Ted...
PS - My bag turned up. I apparently have a Guardian Angel.
-Tom
That looks good. I have an idea for you. Splice the ring on and leave a long tail, then put the cocoon on some prussic chord and make yourself an adjustable friction saver.
[/ QUOTE ]
As soon as I can afford a cocoon, I may need a favor, Ted...
PS - My bag turned up. I apparently have a Guardian Angel.
-Tom
- Location
- SE PA
I believe there will be pictures of this very soon. One of the guys I work with is just putting the finishing touches on his now. Its REALLY sweat.
[/ QUOTE ]
I just posted some two pics under the forum/thread (whatever its called) "custom friction saver ideas." Id rather not post them on here too because then I'll be chasing after two posts. Check it out and let me know what you guys think!
[/ QUOTE ]
I just posted some two pics under the forum/thread (whatever its called) "custom friction saver ideas." Id rather not post them on here too because then I'll be chasing after two posts. Check it out and let me know what you guys think!
Tr33Climb3r
Participating member
- Location
- Wisconsin
Look what NickfromWi wrote in an above post. I think that will answer your question.
browncow, I don't think you want to be reducing the length of anything. In an eye-to-eye, all the original core is gone, so the only crossover is where the two buried tails meet in the middle. Assuming the buries are as long as they should be, the crossover section in the middle just wants to be smooth--it won't be contributing anything significant to strength. Making the crossover smooth requires correct measurements and skill; the rest of the splice is pretty straightforward.
Depending on the length of your eye-to-eye, you might not need a crossover at all, just a smooth taper for each bury.
Depending on the length of your eye-to-eye, you might not need a crossover at all, just a smooth taper for each bury.
NickfromWI
Participating member
- Location
- Los Angeles, CA
Yup
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