I've done the "cuts on the spar from the ground" on sub-10" spars enough to support your "ain't gonna do it" decision. Way too many ways for that to go wrong in a big way. Without seeing the tree in person, and not knowing what's behind the photographer, I think what you're planning sounds good.
I also have the rail closer, and got a lot more use out of my bars as a result. I also snowboard, and have an edge sharpener that is essentially the same thing as the deburring file. It works like a charm on my bars.
Admission: I've never greased the nose sprocket on a chainsaw bar. Is this something that should be done routinely? If so, what grease do you use, and how do you grease it? No zerk fitting on a bar!
Thanks Brocky. I always appreciate your input.
So far I haven't had any problems with my loops being too small for the strands to equalize when loaded. For me, the trick has been keeping them small enough to be secure when using a diamond knot instead of a button knot. I like the diamond knot...
I've made soft shackles out of 1/8" (and larger) polypropylene for very light loads where it's not a disaster if it fails. You can make them out of any kind of hollow braid, so I agree that tenex would be fine for making soft shackles. You just need to make sure they're not accidentally used for...
+1 for using the Kraken with a block for hauling stuff. I often work on dead ash trees, so no climbing them. I sometimes toss a rigging line up into the tree to break off some of the branches to avoid damaging nearby trees when I fell the ash. I sometimes need a lot of pull on the branch to...
I'm looking for a larger saw than my 16" Husky. I won't need it frequently, since most of the trees I work on are relatively small. My 16" saw is great for wood that's 12-14 inches, but bogs down when I need to bury the bar on bigger wood. It's a rancher model, not a pro saw.
I'm interested in...
I don't think anybody said the scientific method doesn't apply to trees. I think what was intended was to say that applying the scientific method to trees is difficult for the reasons listed. That's how I interpreted "doesn't lend itself to trees" to mean.
Exactly. I thought that was what Daniel was trying to say. But then Evo, you speak "left coast", and Daniel speaks "right coast". Maybe you need a "middle coast" translator to communicate. Remember, I speak "Wisconsin nice".
Very true Daniel. The slow growth rate and large size at maturity are just two things that come to mind.
The amount of reforestation in my part of Wisconsin within my lifetime is incredible. I have looked at air photos for this area from 1951 (birth year) and compared them to Google Earth now...
They're becoming very common for use on sailboats. It cuts down on the weight, they're easier and quicker to open and close than a metal shackle and just as secure, easy to make yourself, and less expensive than metal shackles. They're really nice to use to connect jib sheets to the jib or...
I have watched a zillion soft shackle videos over the past year or so, and have taken bits and pieces from several of them to come up with the version in the photos. The knot is a diamond knot. The noose is easily opened since the "tucked leg is not buried. The two-strand section ends in a...
When I make a prussik loop out of rope, I always wonder where the knot should go. For a three wrap (6 wrap?) prussik, my knot could be captured:
or in the loop you clip in to.
Which way is strongest and/or produces the best grip/easiest release?
TIA
Don
Good point, and I think I buy into your concern about opening up "on its own". I've not seen it happen on a sailboat and I've not seen it happen in any of my applications, but that's a pretty small sample of observations. When I make a soft shackle I try to size the knot to match the size of...
My stepson has EGobrand everything. So when he decided to get a chainsaw he bought an Ego brand. He said the only chain that works on it is Ego brand. I thought that was hard to believe, but know nothing about the brand. Anybody know much about the saw(s) they make?