The ends make the twist go and back through the ring to the front, then they go through the carabiner, over the top, and back through the ring in the middle, between the other two sections. They go through the twist and then are tied with a stopper. When the ends are through, the hitch is...
It can happen during a climb, hand tending seems to accelerate the binding more than a neck,chest, or LOTS type tending.
The top hitch on the right is a back view of the G-Force, the Sticht, below it, shows the double crossing/twist. On the left is a 32” hitch cord,8mm, has just enough...
You should be able to make it tend easier by pulling down on the ring to get some distance between the wraps and the lower section, but if too far it starts to not grab reliably.
I’m doing the stopper knot in back a little different, bringing the ends through the twist in back before tying the...
I like the black pin that allows the carabiner to be removed with the pulley staying with the hitch. Probably will need to buy their hitch cords for the longer eyes.
The cheapest and simplest Sticht so far, only uses a length of cord. The bottom wrap makes the “ring”, and the ends go through the twist in back, before stopper.
But only when used in a specialized situation, the Whoopie has a loss of about 20% from the loop tail exiting out the side. No need for a full strength splice, especially when trying to make it as short as possible.
Yes, the lengths are for Class II, Class I results are the same for their required bury lengths. I’m not seeing much sharp bending or much interaction with other rope parts except the 90 degree bend around a single diameter of rope when it is used for a dead eye sling. The rest of the bury...
Two fid lengths of bury would be the strongest splice, locked Brummells are only needed if a straight bury isn’t desired, like friction hitch cords. Stitches could replace the locked Brummells with the longer bury and be as secure for the times it’s unloaded.
When using locked brummels the...
I bury the core and cover a couple inches short to make adjustments, then bury them just before final milking.
I don’t jam the crossover together, just pull until marks line up, the core strands get distorted with too much force, causing bunching when the opening milks them out. The crossover...