I've been using a homemade rigging wrench a bit lately made from a pinto rig, regular rope wrench and soft shackle. With 1/2" stable braid it requires a pretty large piece to run smoothly. Bigger than most tops I would want to negative rig, but nice for large branches and small logs. Takes quite...
Does a Morgan block produce enough friction that you could be anywhere near mbs when running it by hand? I haven't used one very much, but my assumption is that the hand is the weak point in the system.
If a recently unemployed arborist wanted to drive down there with gear and try to help out, who should he contact to be of most use?
Not looking to profit, just someone with a lot of free time suddenly and willing to volunteer.
I picked up a cheap old sunfish on a whim a couple weeks ago. She was in sorry shape but the hull is tight and I've been replacing the parts as I need to. Today I made these main sheet hangers, to keep the line from drooping on tacks and snagging my hat.
Handsaw on the left leg, handle forward. Chainsaw usually on the forward left gear loop, hanging from the top handle on a recoil lanyard. Positioning lanyards on the right side. I have the same gear loop for my chainsaw in the same place on the right hip, so I frequently temporarily rack the saw...
To modify this, since the OP appears to be a new climber: Understand your system.
If you've got a rope with a bunch if nicks, an 8 year old hand me down harness with the original bridge, and you're only kind of sure that you tied a bowline, maybe don't climb in free air?
If you understand the...
Better if it's the type that stays out until you pull it slow, like a seatbelt. Otherwise they tend to yoink the wedge out a little too soon for comfort.
The intact fibers are what hold the tree up, gravity pulls the tree down. If there are more fibers on the left side of the hinge, the tree is more resistant to falling, and falls slower. The right sided gives into gravity more easily, allowing it to fall faster. Since the right side is moving...
Fantastic climbing / work boots, worn for one day of work, in very good condition. There's one tiny hole in the back of the thumb grab / gaiter area. These are EU 42.5 or US 9.5, but I would recommend them to someone who is normally a 9 as they're a bit tight on me which is why I am selling...
I've been using an old pair of ski boot insoles in my work boots for years. Sidas, I believe. Heat molded. They're really falling apart now and my current ski boot set up is pretty dialed so I'll follow this thread to see what other options are out there.
I'm working on making an adjustable friction saver, and I'm looking for options for splicing a prussik loop with a small ring around it. The easiest way for me to do this would of course be to tie a knot, followed by making two eye splices through the same ring. The downside to two eyes is that...