Trying out my mini-wrench hook combo

I climb frequently with a hook device for sprawling canopies. Energy conservation is my priority in those big sprawly climbs or transfers. I’ve been using a hitch hiker on my hook line that lives on the rope, super compact and simple profile. Choice of hitch and rope combo of your liking. In this photo I'm running a 30-ish ft Sterling dragon rope (static kernmantle) 11mm, armor prus 8mm hitch cord. I stow everything in a dmm 6L tool bag and stash in the canopy or have it sent up for climbs when i don’t need it consistently.
 

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I climb frequently with a hook device for sprawling canopies. Energy conservation is my priority in those big sprawly climbs or transfers. I’ve been using a hitch hiker on my hook line that lives on the rope, super compact and simple profile. Choice of hitch and rope combo of your liking. In this photo I'm running a 30-ish ft Sterling dragon rope (static kernmantle) 11mm, armor prus 8mm hitch cord. I stow everything in a dmm 6L tool bag and stash in the canopy or have it sent up for climbs when i don’t need it consistently.
I really like that idea. I think I'll try this setup, as the zillon has proven to be acceptable, but sub optimal I think. I recently got a second wrench, but the HH is pretty darn compact and the cordage being the last part instead of the metal works seems ideal for the hook.
 
I really like that idea. I think I'll try this setup, as the zillon has proven to be acceptable, but sub optimal I think. I recently got a second wrench, but the HH is pretty darn compact and the cordage being the last part instead of the metal works seems ideal for the hook.
I purchased a RC grapple and recently put a sewn tight eye directly on it. Opted for a 50-60ft hank of Yale kernmaster, paired with a hitch hiker that will live on the line. Really loving the RC grapple so far, very well done @Reg. Excited to try it out with a tight eye direct connection to the device.
 

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Yes indeed, I've been on the same setup for a couple years, love it. HitchHiker is perfect for a hook line eh. Started with 30ft line, moved to 60ft later. Only difference is I attach with a crab so I can tie-in and use the line for working once I get over to the new position.

I recently seem to have lost my hook somehow, probably on a crane job a few weeks back where we worked 3 hrs past dark. Anyway, I'm looking at an RC hook to replace it...
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i usually just lurk here on Tree Buzz, reading and liking without commenting, but this thread inspired me to share my recent Captain Hook customization, and I felt that this is the most appropriate thread to do so on.

I have had the hook for a few years now, and it sure comes in handy in sprawling trees, traverses and other complicated scenarios. But always wanted to make a setup that was more multipurpose and streamline the amount of gear dangling from my harness. The original kit version that came with 10mm rope with a spliced eye is obviously super compact and very responsive for manipulating the hook (ie: turning it by twisting the rope), but I didn't like the fact that it was a dedicated hook line only. Lugging around the whole kit is bulky, but also I would prefer to not have to bother a ground person to send up more stuff than I already do.

There are certain situations in which I wanted to be able to take the hook off after the traverse and set up a secondary MRS system on the same rope to work position with in conjunction with a main SRS line, especially in the case that one wishes to rappel far from the original hook position and later retrieve the rope without a hassle. In general, I just wanted to not have extra ropes. I like a long lanyard,

Obviously this can be achieved by just cutting the splice off the original 10mm rope, and using a termination knot directly to the shackle. But I wanted to switch out the rope to 11.5mm one with a spliced eye that would be my long lanyard, and not have to deal with the bulk and hassle of termination knots. Another option was to leave carabiner on the spliced eye of the long lanyard, and clip that through the shackle of the hook, but I mainly didn't like the extra length and "floppiness" that it added to the system.

I dreamed about a compact shackle on the hook that could open and connect to the spliced eye of my long lanyard. At some point, I realized that this "something" already existed in the form of the DMM Directors Yoke carabiner/shackle. And it is exactly the same size as the compact shackle in the same lineup, so I ordered one and installed in on the hook directly.

Now I keep the hook hanging on my harness, and just clip it directly to the spliced eye of the long lanyard, and as needed, remove the hook, add a normal carabiner, close the loop of the MRS system, and continue on with the climb.

What I did is definitively not revolutionary and maybe others have found more efficient setups, but I haven't seen anyone else try this modification yet, so I wanted to throw it out there in case it helps someone else work more efficiently too.

Important note:
The rope shown in the photos is a Teulfelberger Fly 11.1mm, and the positioning device is Surveyor's BOLA 3.0. While I have had great success with this device as a lanyard adjustor on Tachyon 11.5mm and also Sterling Tritech 11mm, it DID NOT work for me on the rope shown, as it creeped too much. I have since switched back to the Tachyon for this purpose. (I am also going to be receiving a small elongated steel bollard from Surveyor to modify the BOLA, and quite possibly it will allow the device to work on this skinnier rope. Time will tell, and I can provide feedback about that when I have experimented with it.)
 

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Great idea cangrejo. How do you find the balance and manipulation of the C Hook to be in that configuration for throwing? And how throwable is it with heavier line - like Tacyon?

One of the things I loved about the Captain Hook from the start was how throwable it is with 10mm and how easily and accurately I could manipulate it by twisting the rope or flipping in slack to have it fall.
 
It looks as if the carabiner might work better for placing and retrieving the hook if it was at right angles to its built-in shackle? That is, when the hook is facing away from the limb or positioned to grip the limb, the carabiner would be flat as it slides over the limb. I also like using mine with it being easily removable from my extra long lanyard so that I can shift it over to a proper second system, but I use a stainless screw link. A bit fiddly compared to a carabiner and also hard to manage if gloves on in cold weather.
 
Huh. Just friction/torque lock up on the SS link right?
I usually do simply tighten it as tight as I can with my fingers and it has always stayed put for positioning, but if I think I am going to actually hang on it in a serious way, like after traverse, I have a little crescent wrench that hangs on my key chain that I can fish out my pocket and take a moment to really torque it up a bit. The screw link is so low profile that it is not noticeably different in handling than the hook shackle alone.
 
Great idea cangrejo. How do you find the balance and manipulation of the C Hook to be in that configuration for throwing? And how throwable is it with heavier line - like Tacyon?

One of the things I loved about the Captain Hook from the start was how throwable it is with 10mm and how easily and accurately I could manipulate it by twisting the rope or flipping in slack to have it fall.
Hello Merle,

I agree with you 100% about the Captain Hook's performance right out of the box with the 10mm line. I guess that I went down the rabbit hole of chasing the "Holy Grail of arbor perfection" with my setup. hehehe

In any case, it has been working out okay so far. I was initially worried that the added width of that short but fat Director's caribiner/shackle combo would get stuck easier, and I still believe that could happen even though it hasn't yet, but I do like the fact that it is a more rigid connection. One of the reasons that I wanted to try it out was because I didn't like the floppy-ness of a carabiner attached through the shackle (if I were to be using a rope with a spliced eye) and I felt that a knotted connection was basically just as bulky.

I need to spend a bunch more time with this configuration to see if it ends up being as useful and efficient as I am hoping. I also really like to tinker and experiment, so even if it is just a stepping stone for other ideas, well so be it.

As far as your other questions go, the balance of the hook still seems okay, it can be manipulated fine in the sense that because it is rigid, one can still twist the rope and get a good response.

The Tachyon has worked out fine. I am not going for any throws longer than 30ft, as right now that is my max length on the setup. The weight of the rope isn't an issue, and I like that I can throw on any mechanical device or prussic, because it is the same rope as my main line.

Best regards,
Michael
 
It looks as if the carabiner might work better for placing and retrieving the hook if it was at right angles to its built-in shackle? That is, when the hook is facing away from the limb or positioned to grip the limb, the carabiner would be flat as it slides over the limb. I also like using mine with it being easily removable from my extra long lanyard so that I can shift it over to a proper second system, but I use a stainless screw link. A bit fiddly compared to a carabiner and also hard to manage if gloves on in cold weather.
Hey Burrapeg,

Yeah, that would be interesting too, if there was such a shackle/biner configuration available to try!

I really envisioned a slightly elongated version of the original DMM shackle, but with some sort of screw link threaded opening or a mini carabiner gate or something. But I went with the closest thing that I had found at the time, and the reality is that those folks at DMM sure make some cool gear, because that Director carabiner is quite a work of art!

I tried the small oval screw link to, but I was a bit worried about how the threads would chew up the inside of the spliced eye of the rope in the long run. I suppose that I could get a custom splice slightly more open and maybe with a plastic thimble in it, to avoid that issue. In fact, it hadn't really dawned on me until right now as I am writing you and trying to explain my reasoning!

Cheers,
Michael
 

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