The difference between logging and Suburban Tree Work

That's the same thing Jake said on the above video... HAVE YOU SEEN WHAT A MESS HE MADE OF THAT FACE CUT???

On a monster tree maybe.... not that big a deal on the vast majority of trees.... when there is a reason, sure use the Humboldt... and there can be lots of reasons... but when none of those advantages are relavant, then use the faster, easier cut.... And the vast majority of arbs are not good enough to cut both equally as well.
No. I haven't seen it.

I don't think I'm going to learn enough to make it worth watching... I'm trying to avoid saying that I think I'll learn nothing.

We can't base something by how sub-par cutters can get it done.

Humboldts are useful for high face-cuts on root- diseased trees for finding better hinges.
 
Humboldts are useful for high face-cuts on root- diseased trees for finding better hinges.
They have a lot more uses than that... mostly for logging though..

one good example is the fact that you;re a lot less likely to break the log when using a Humboldt due to the way it comes off the stump early and the but hits first, reducing the forces that would break the log that are present if it hits tip first..
 
Most comes off as a slab unless it’s a 50% face and then gets sorted in the mill which is pretty neatly automated too. Scandinavian shallow face is just for that, to maximize lumber. Also depends on what equipment is in the woods as to the stump height. Flat ground the conv will make lower stumps and more bdft for the operator. 99% around here is mechanical harvesting so it’s only for smaller harvest outfits that it matters.
 
Humb is faster, and it falls out on it's own on big trees. Three cuts and a slam if the tree ain't big. Watch tree_being dump out face cuts that weigh more than her. Watch a good faller like her or chiselbit trace cut instead of double cut...fast.


Top cut first conventional for visual is easiest for newbs n stuff...I'd never ever use conventional on a spar.
 
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I'd never ever use conventional on a spar.
Damn. 40+ years of chunking down mill logs and apparently I have been doing wrong the entire time.

3 reason to use a conventional aloft-

1. With a conventional you lessen the chances of loosing an undercut while working aloft (something your groundies and clients will greatly appreciate).

2. You are not fighting gravity during the diagonal portion of your undercut. This can make a big difference during those long dayz in the saddle/spurs.

3. There is a notion among some old timers that the conventional is slightly more accurate.
 
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Damn. 40+ years of chunking down mill logs and apparently I have been doing wrong the entire time.

3 reason to use a conventional aloft-

1. With a conventional you lessen the chances of loosing an undercut while working aloft (something your groundies and clients will greatly appreciate).

2. You are not fighting gravity during the diagonal portion of your undercut. This can make a big difference during those long dayz in the saddle/spurs.

3. There is a notion among some old timers that the conventional is slightly more accurate.
4. There is slightly less waste by chunking saw logs off a spar with conventional cuts. Round here mills scale from the small end of the log.
5. Yeah you have been doing all wrong. Not exactly sure why but just because ;)
 
To get a log to land flat may need a conv, or hum, or open face too. Last log for us is either deep’n’steep conventional or open when the spar needs to be short, so most of the time… Helps to have a sharp pull on the last one occasionally too, to get an adequate rotation if it’s a mill log and well below the happy ratio.
 
I like the push off/toss coupled with conventional. I’ve cleared some targets that way. Can get a pretty good distance sometimes
 
a lot of that depends on the topography... Humbold has benefits in some residential scenarios, and they can be life saving benefits, so forgive the ambiguity, but please read carefully. To me, the most important use of the humboldt is when taking out tops.. keeps them out of your lap.... especially when the top is going through traffic on the way down...



another little understood benefit of the Humboldt is that it gives the faller a more predictable angle of separation as it tends to break off directly after the face closes, where the traditional or open face will hang on for another 10-15 degrees of movement before the hinge fails. This is particularly important when throwing tops..


and yes, the pushback is another considerable effect, but again it depends on the trees you're cutting. It's almost NEVER been a concern when cutting eastern hardwoods.. And I almost never fall trees up steep hills, but when I do, I prefer a Humboldt.

What I AM refering to is a lot of videos showing the use of the Humboldt as a falling cut when the log is junk and the faller has less than expertise in matching cuts etc.. In these sceanrios it would be much more practical, faster, easier and more reliable to use the open face...

Guilty of Treeson calls this a "double cut tutorial" when it's nothing more than redicuplous waste of time.. and he says that on large diameter trees, it's easier to get the face cut out on Humboldts.. nothing Soon as I saw that I didn't ever pay any attention to a thing he said or did and never watched another video of his.
I don't pay any attention to what that guy guilty says or does. When I see a guy making a face cut with no eye protection on I disregard anything coming out of his mouth.
 
Usually I can get the little trees I remove to to fellable height with the top handle saw. So mostly cutting with a top handle on a spar a humbolt just feels more ergonomic and is easier for me. Plus I feel like it gets the piece away from me faster, not sure if that's real but that's how it seems to work. But on the rare occasion I use a rear handle saw in the tree a conventional is easier for me and more ergonomic. I'm left handed and can only see out of one eye though so I'm not a reliable source by any means! :ROFLMAO:
 
@rico

I was thinking mostly of topping…no way am I doing anything but Humboldt if I’m strapped to the tree, I don’t want to catch that butt.

You’ve being treeing nearly as long as I’ve been alive (I’m not as old as this big gray beard makes me look) …you must be old
 
And a contractors license, insurance, and bond…
I can't tell you how infuriating it is that they won't let me take the test for my contractors license because I don't have the hours under another contractor. It's obviously a good ol' boys club. I could even get insurance without that license, and in many states, you don't need a contractors license. What is the justification for not letting people take a test and demonstrate proficiency and understanding? Why should it matter that I wasn't employed full time? I have spent years learning this stuff and practice a lot at home, but those hours don't count; why?
 
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