Analog
Participating member
- Location
- City of Trees
I seem to remember Guilty of Treeson touting a really flexible looking wire core flip line. I think it was made by Courant? Does anyone have any experience with these? What's the name?
Courant ? Flexible flip line/lanyard
- Thread starter Analog
- Start date
evo
Been here much more than a while
- Location
- My Island, WA
No experience with them. Part of the reason I like the bigger 5/8 Yale flips is because of their stiffness. One can push them up the backside clearing stubs and stuff
Merle Nelson
Been here much more than a while
- Location
- SF Bay Area, CA
And "hand". They feel so much better than 1/2" or smaller rope.
Serf Life
Been here much more than a while
- Location
- Maine Island
@Brocky , Rope Tamer.
Yep..My old hands get very cranky on flip-lines under 5/8”.
Analog
Participating member
- Location
- City of Trees
I'm well aware of the features and benefits of the traditional wire core flip lines, having used them for the last 20+ years. I'm asking if anyone knows the exact name of the flexy flipline I described and if they have any personal experience with it. I'm wondering which adjuster would work best with it and any other overall impressions. I think its called Courant Stileo.
Awful expensive for what it is, and I can’t get much info on the eyes, but Stileo flipline looks like all the other rubbish being produced with crimped eyes. I myself would never climb on wire core that doesn’t have an actual splice on the wire. Personally know 2 climbers who have had a crimped eye fail.
Why not look at Yale’s maxi flip sport. Flemish splice on eyes, better hardware, and it’s cheaper.
www.treestuff.com
Why not look at Yale’s maxi flip sport. Flemish splice on eyes, better hardware, and it’s cheaper.
Yale Maxi-Flip Sport
The Maxi-Flip Sport wire core flipline from Yale Cordage offers a 16 strand cover which works great with mechanical hardware and is 25% lighter than the Standard Maxi-Flip. The Flemish eye sp
www.treestuff.com
evo
Been here much more than a while
- Location
- My Island, WA
Totally agree with Rico. It looks like when the double swaged flip lines got some heat, Sherrill came up with some swaging OVER the cover thang. Never held one, but for wire cores it’s 100% Yale Flemish 5/8ths. I have a couple of rope lanyards I use, a long which I can setup like a short climbing line, and a short general purpose.
On spar work I reach for my 5/8th Yale, all other times I go with my rope lanyards.
Sure the steel offers an additional margin of safety, but just a margin.
On spar work I reach for my 5/8th Yale, all other times I go with my rope lanyards.
Sure the steel offers an additional margin of safety, but just a margin.
I used one a tid bit in my early days because I thought it was bomber until I saw that video of dude cutting one.
Got more experience and once I switched to rope I never looked back.
I know their the best at flipping up or down big spars but in my mind, you shouldn't choose a wirecore bc it adds to the safety margin.
Got more experience and once I switched to rope I never looked back.
I know their the best at flipping up or down big spars but in my mind, you shouldn't choose a wirecore bc it adds to the safety margin.
evo
Been here much more than a while
- Location
- My Island, WA
I strongly disagree. It does add a safety margin, and to some that is very important. Sure they can be cut straight though, but over all my years I’ve never seen one severed. I have seen countless saw nick’s, glancing which has cut a few of the wire strands even. A seatbelt adds a safety margin but it can still break hips, ribs and collar bones.
Obviously the seatbelt thing is law, and the only thing we are required to do is be tied in twice. If one wants the extra margin of safety even if slim I’m all for that. I personally feel safe with my work habits without a steel core, and do feel safer with one. My decision is more based on technique as I find a rope lanyard way more versatile. That versatility goes out the window with non complex spar work plus the other benefits is why I use steel cores for those occasions.
Matias
Been here much more than a while
- Location
- Butte County
I have watched several people test the cutability of steel core fliplines, and the only way it happens quickly is if you cut it at full throttle through the maximally tensioned section on the opposite side of the spar from you, which is technically possible, but highly unlikely. Any hit from a top handle on any part of the flipline that you can see while on the spar is nearly guaranteed to leace you with enough cable to keep you alive whike you switch to a rope. I am a sucker for moving images though, so if you show me some that prove otherwise, I'll believe it.
evo
Been here much more than a while
- Location
- My Island, WA
Words to live by! And if only using one point of attachment when using a saw…. Use a steel core. But follow the rules and tie in twice
Would you explain how that is done?
Take the core out and bury a smaller one inside it, except about a foot from the end to more easily tie a stopper knot. The other end of the small core tapers to blend with the eye splice.
To put the core back in the cover I have a long piece of 12 ga. copper wire with a loop in one end. The wire loop gets inserted in the second mark of the eye and comes out the end, and is jammed into the end of the core. Some fishing line is girth hitched to the core next to the wire loop end, and using a needle, the ends are inserted through the core and the loop. The fishing line ends are then wrapped around the core in opposite directions, tied together and inserted back through the core. This also eliminates the core extracting step of eye splicing.
When milking the cover on, grab the rope after the wire, rather than loading the fishing line friction hitch each time.
To put the core back in the cover I have a long piece of 12 ga. copper wire with a loop in one end. The wire loop gets inserted in the second mark of the eye and comes out the end, and is jammed into the end of the core. Some fishing line is girth hitched to the core next to the wire loop end, and using a needle, the ends are inserted through the core and the loop. The fishing line ends are then wrapped around the core in opposite directions, tied together and inserted back through the core. This also eliminates the core extracting step of eye splicing.
When milking the cover on, grab the rope after the wire, rather than loading the fishing line friction hitch each time.
