Sticht Hitch

Do you descend on just the hitch, or use some additional device to take some of the weight and friction?
 
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Been playing with this setup a bit. Really like the compactness for spar work. Descends super smooth walking down with spurs. Tested it out on short SRT climbs/descents too and actually worked pretty well for me (maybe 155lbs). But I can imagine burning through hitch cord really quickly without an additional ring/bushing/etc to take the friction off the cord (tried an additional ring but didn’t seat very evenly on the rope, maybe I’ll experiment with a bushing). Probably won’t become my go to SRT setup, but on spurs or a Captain Hook line, it seems perfect! Nice to have a functional minimalist option. Thanks for sharing the development of it!
 
I haven’t found a way of adding something to the hitch to dissipate heat, only devices away from it, like figure 8s, belay tubes, carabiner for a Munter, etc. Another option are things directly below the hitch, the ATS with its horns gives multiply ways of adding friction without having to open or remove the device to install the rope. One more option is a small Rope Wrench on top. My first idea was to have it open to quickly install only when needed, on the right. Also made one to stay on the rope, and push up when needed. Both use a floppy tether, doesn’t jam against the hitch.
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Has anyone made a video showing how to tie this.. like a training video tie it once regularly. Then tie it slowly so we all can follow? I’ve been wanting to try this knot out but I’m more of a visual learner.


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So I did a bit of spar work this week and gave the oval vt a run for the last 35 ft or so. Worked great for a simple cinching system. The stitch seems so much more compact and should work in place of the oval vt even better. Is anyone using this hitch on a regular basis in production? I live on a pretty tight budget with the current family situation so the price point on this is awesome compared to even a rope wrench and the compactness works great on a spar. I usually work the tree on a double rope but coming down a spar is so much better srt and even spurring up would be better with this as a backup.


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The Knotorious video seems to make it look exceedingly functional. I have been meaning to get a sufficiently long bit of hitch cord to try it out. Would definitely be my go to on spars if it performs even adequately.
 
I use it regularly for production. I use it in SRT and DdRT configurations. The price point is great.

For full disclosure I also run a hitch hiker as well for SRT rope walker assents. I could not quite get the tending to work without a fair amount of drag. But apart from that application I find it to fit the bill for most other situations.
 
kludge said:
I use it regularly for production. I use it in SRT and DdRT configurations. The price point is great.

For full disclosure I also run a hitch hiker as well for SRT rope walker assents. I could not quite get the tending to work without a fair amount of drag. But apart from that application I find it to fit the bill for most other situations.
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You should be able to make it tend easier by pulling down on the ring to get some distance between the wraps and the lower section, but if too far it starts to not grab reliably.
I’m doing the stopper knot in back a little different, bringing the ends through the twist in back before tying the overhand. Makes it a little more compact and lifts the twist off the rope for easier sliding.
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Brocky said:
You should be able to make it tend easier by pulling down on the ring to get some distance between the wraps and the lower section, but if too far it starts to not grab reliably.
I’m doing the stopper knot in back a little different, bringing the ends through the twist in back before tying the overhand. Makes it a little more compact and lifts the twist off the rope for easier sliding.
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Brocky, I usually set the ring distance by pulling down on the stopper knot after tying it.

The main problem I was experiencing with tending drag is how to tend the knot passively with a chest harness. The twist seems drag when I tend from the ring, creating a waste of energy I just prefer not to have. Do you do a rope walking technique? And how do you tend the hitch, if you do?

As to your pic here, I am seeing a rope ring. And as to the knot, the rope passing out through the twist. So the twist is broken up by passing your lines back through the twist so there is a crossing of lines above and below the lines that form the stopper knot. Am I deciphering that correctly?
 
The ends make the twist go and back through the ring to the front, then they go through the carabiner, over the top, and back through the ring in the middle, between the other two sections. They go through the twist and then are tied with a stopper. When the ends are through, the hitch is tightened up, it stays together to make it easier to do. The stopper should be tightened as much as possible to keep it compact. Connecting to the carabiner, eyes, or legs make a chest tender better, it’s not trying to tighten up the hitch., I use a seized in the middle small loop.
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After it is tied, with the wraps grabbing, I pull down on the ring to get the separation, usually this is enough to get it to tend easily.
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Brocky said:
Another way to tend the hitch using rigging/ low friction rings, makes it smooth and nearly effortless. The size of ring used depends on the the type of hitch cord eye.
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After an eBay purchase, can now make an “official” Sticht Hitch.
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Hey Brocky is there a good picture of the front and back of the stitch hitch? I’ve been looking for one, but I can’t find one. Yeah I’ve been finding a lot of side views, but I want to try this out but I don’t know how to tie it. Thanks I appreciate it.
 
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