Help advancing srt

T

takjaa

Location
hampshire
Hi, could anyone point to me in the right direction to a video explaining/showing how you advance up a tree srt once you reach your 1st anchor you made from the ground... hope this makes sense.

Atm I get to top anchor point, lanyard in, throw tail over above branch then undo rr from harness, pass over above branch and reattach to bridge then again and again, although this works it just seems a bit slow and I think I may be missing something?

I'm thinking about incorporating a teufelberger multisling with 2 biner's as a midline attachable false crotch anchor, that way I don't have to take rr off my bridge at all....

Any thoughts or suggestions?

Cheers guys
 
JontreeHI said:
With a base tie you can set up a doubled rope system (hitch climber, whichever) on the tail of your rope. Ascend to first anchor, pull a bunch of slack into your srt device and lock it off with a slip knot and a carabiner, then pull up your tail progress climb as per normal Ddrt. Hit high point, pull your srt device through, climb srt!
Click to expand...

That short description just made the penny drop! Cheers guys
 
@takjaa, I don't know if this will help or not, but here is a link to a page of a thread in which I posted photos of a 1/2" PVC atlatl, or throwing stick. It makes it easier to toss a throw ball for a longer distance. You may have to scroll down the page a little to get to the photos.

http://masterblasterhome.com/showth...ventures-Aloft&p=735656&viewfull=1#post735656

The other thing is, it always seems a lot easier to climb when I manage to acquire a really high suspension point before I ever even start to put my gear on. It just seems to take a lot more time and effort when trying to acquire a higher primary suspension point after you are already up there.

The Big Shot and the APTA are highly recommended, but I'm not entirely certain that the APTA is legal to use everywhere. I think it may be possible that certain localities may have more restrictive laws than even the states that they are within, possess.

If you do decide to buy and use these devices, I would say it's a good thing to try to be as discreet as possible, and to not have it out and exposed for any longer than necessary. I think the APTA mildly alarms some people, and they begin to ask questions that are a bit troubling.

Good luck with the climbing, and stay safe. Welcome to the TreeBuzz forum.

Tim
 
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This video
illustrates a great method for an easily advanceable canopy anchor using a sirius multisling. Climbingarborist.com is a great resource.

This is my preferred method for tying in srt. Base anchors are a bit more tricky but I don't often use them due t the increased loading at the TIP. However, I really like JontreeHI's suggestion re the DDRT system on the tail. Slick.

I'm not a fan of trying to get the highest tie in possible from the first shot due to the fact that it is harder to see defects and other things like rope orientation (suckers in the way) from the ground, the higher you go with your throw ball shot. IMO It is safer to grab a somewhat lower tie in to begin with and assess as you go.
 
I'll usually aim for the highest TIP, inspect with binos, if I suspect or notice a defect and I'm planning a canopy anchor, I'll select a suitable lower canopy anchor and leave enough climb line to set some higher redirects, either natural crotch or on a sling and biner. Depending on the tree, "free climb" with enough slack in climbline but tethered in with a lanyard, or midline knot, clip HH into it, and toss over a higher point and pull down. Some cases I have a second 70ft Allgear climb line and use it DdRT to advance. Only reason being is my SRT line is vortex and with our low dollar is very expensive to replace, and allgear products are carried locally for a very reasonable price, save some wear and tear on the vortex.
 
I have a throw weight, and if desired an extra biner to put on the tail of my rope. I can advance it far enough at a time, without messing with a throw line in the tree.

A fly fishing reel with throw line and throw weight is used by some, in the canopy.
 
I use the spliced end of my climb line with an alpine butterfly what ever distance I determine I need and make a cinching tie in with a quickie link(pretty typical set up). I leave a dmm xsre in the spliced eye. When I reach that tie in I lanyard in, undo the quickie(with rocketline I don't have to take the pin all the way out). Attach a throwball on the xsre and throw to advance, clip the quickie back in, cinch and climb on. Maybe not the best in every situation but it seems to be the most efficient system I've used so far. The spliced eye and xsre make the end of the rope nice and stream lined in case of a miss throw it doesn't get hung up as easy.
Rock on!
 
Lately I've been using the Zeppelin Bend to connect my two lines together (Anchor Line and Working Line). My Working Lide is 100', so I can work just about any tree in my area with a 200' Anchor Line and be able to thread several redirects or even move into another tree.

This is mostly for working on Hardwood tree pruning, so take it with a grain of salt...

The nice thing about setting the connection of the two lines at a decent branch union is the there's certainly enough Anchor Line to successfully lower, and the Zepplin Bend is super easy to untie. This way, I can reach the union, lanyard in, untie the Bend, and advance as easily as DdRT. I usually do a round turn with my Lanyard to trap the anchor line so it won't fall while untied. I also like to thread the Working Line through a few unions for that nice rope deflection into compression before tying another Zepplin Bend back into the Anchor Line.

You can even tune the point of the Zepplin Bend to be away from an undesired location with an Alpine Butterfly in the Anchor Line.

It all just adds up to a real serious time saver when getting the initial group of redirects threaded up nice, since you can do so without pulling all of the Working Line through the redirects or having to remove the multiscender from the rope.
 
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For all the lowering applications, my knots are less than ideal, but good union selection make it passable.

I would love it if all my ropes had "slaice" splices on both ends. Slaices and an oval mallion can pass through unions very well.
 
A European Death Knot might be a better choice, as the asymmetrical nature of the knot will push the knot away from the redirecting branch, and its compact.
 
Bhard47 said:
Oceans, what makes for a good working line anchor line combo when you tie the Zeppelin bend?
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It's a great question. I'm a bit of an outsider since I actually want some energy absorption in my Working Line, while I want a very static Anchor Line. I also like to see not much more than 1mm difference in diameter between the two lines. This makes for proper dressing and setting of the bend. If the ropes are far too different in characteristic, the bend won't really inspire much confidence for me.

That being said, I absolutely love the consistent performance of Tachyon with all devices, hitch based or mechanical. Using that for the Working Line, married to some KMIII for the anchor side seems to make a nice pair.

If I'm on a mechanical multiscender that has built in energy absorption (due to slippage when shock loaded), I'm much happier to climb with a static line on both sides. In this case, I'd choose some KMIII Max for the Working Line, with KMIII or Escalator for the Anchor Line.

Again, the lines don't have to be identical, but close enough to see a nicely dressed and set connection. You'll know when two lines don't marry well.
 
If you want to join two lines that don't do well with a Zepplin Bend, a Double Sheet Bend may make a happier connection.
 
Thanks for expanding on the marrying up ropes. I was kind of imagining something to that effect but it helps to have it reinforced. It's something that I've wanted to give a go just needed a little more confidence.
 
Bhard47 said:
Thanks for expanding on the marrying up ropes. I was kind of imagining something to that effect but it helps to have it reinforced. It's something that I've wanted to give a go just needed a little more confidence.
Click to expand...
A knot should inspire confidence. I usually leave just over a foot of tail from each side of the bend.

I had an interesting discussion with some well known industry pros about choosing knots. Their consensus was that if you really think a knot needs another knot to prevent disaster, it might be the wrong knot. I personally feel very comfortable on a Zepplin Bend.
 
JontreeHI said:
Derek Martin had a video joining lines with a sheet bend Yosemite finish, is that the same as a double sheet bend?
Click to expand...
I'd like to see that bend. I was taught the Double Sheet Bend years ago while commercial fishing, and we used it to attach a gangion to a trap bridle. The bridle was usually larger diameter, and was made with a Figure of Eight at mid length. The gangion would thread into the eye of the eight, and then form two round turns. Some guys would tie a slip version, which passed a bight of the gangion into the eye, and the two round turns ran underneath the bight.

Both versions are made with the round turns wrapping towards the nose of the Eight. Both versions untie by breaking the bar of the eight open, much like untying a Bowline.
 
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