Rachel, first and foremost, thanks for sharing so that we all can be better climbers.
To error is human, I’m glad we are all human and we will make errors.
My comments, like everyone here, are critical of everything that occurred but it is not personal criticism of anyone involved. Out of every one of these reports I learned something and if I can remember and apply them I will be better for it and your experience could be what keeps me alive, THANK YOU. Get well.
… His new line did spiral up the trunk of the tree so there was a shock loading event that occurred, and since the system was SRT the amount of force at my TIP would have been significant.
….-
Is it possible that the line slipped from his hand and the blakes hitch simply followed the rope up until it contacted a limb or part of the tree, released and simply let your line run until it passed the hitch. (Even if it did not slip immediacy, it likely would not pass a branch or limb without releasing.) I can see it being difficult to cut your rope with one hand while holding the rescue line with the other. If the hitch stayed engaged for just a moment it would pull the rescue line into the tree where it was observed, leading to an observation that it “was connected”. I think you mentioned that your line was flaked on the ground next to you. Seeing the rescue line up the tree could lead someone to think it provided resistance and thus a “SHOCK LOAD”, when in fact it did very little.
All that said, a note for all SRT climbers. Make sure that your coworkers are not only are familiar with SRT dynamics….-
The same should and can be said for DdRT.
… if I had simply tied an Alpine Butterfly on my line just above my basal tie that this would have better equipped my coworkers to perform a ground rescue without cutting my line. They could have simply clipped in and untied my basal tie and gradually loaded my system to the new line.
.-
” if I had simply”. It is not about fault and yes, perhaps and AB would have helped but a properly tied prusik would do the same thing. There are lots of ways to get the weight off so that a new knot, RIG or friction device can be installed. It is not that “simple” to just clip in and take the weight off of a base anchor, even at your light weight.
… The Wrench and Hitch were both sharing the load but I failed to provide the necessary distance between them to work them both. So in my initial descent I had to step up take the weight of the Wrench, place the load fully on the hitch and then break the hitch and then re-position the Wrench. It was very rough, awkward, and rushed..-
These comments concern me and anyone using the RW should understand this well. Now I not a “light weight” and I trust someone will correct me if I am wrong as there may be some motivations to do these techniques that I am not effected by.
You said, “work them both” and proceeded to mention a method of basically disengaging or minimizing the engagement of the RW. This may be something you are used to doing because of your light weight.
When using the RW a climber just needs to be sure it is engaged, it is not a control lever for applying friction. It is a self-metered, progressive provider of friction depending on the weight of the climber and friction of the hitch. It should not be “WORKED” and there should not be a need to work both the hitch and the RW at the same time.
… I stopped when the heat on the rope became too much ………….-
A light weight climber can descend on a friction hitch without a RW, heavy weight climbers just tend to lock them up. This is why the friction for a limb anchor, DdRT and the friction from the RW works. The difference being that the limb is out of reach but the RW is not. As Kevin says, “it is the branch the goes with you”. Trying to control the RW is like trying to control or release the friction from the branch. Again, perhaps light weight climbers are in a habit of doing this but as we know, when we panic, we DO what we are in the habit of doing, without thought.
… I'll most certainly won't make that mistake with my hitch again, if my knot had been smoother I wouldn't stopped and likely could have reached the ground before the rope was cut. ….….-
I realize that you made a panic and rapid descent but this comment makes me again wonder if it was not so much a problem with your hitch but that the RW was not properly being used thus not providing the share of the friction needed to keep your hitch from burning up. It would be like removing the branch from a typical blakes hitch setup and descending solely on the blakes hitch. That could easily melt thru the climb line or split tale and also burn your hand.
… One thing I miss about my ol' Blakes Hitch is that I didn't have the tendency to burn my hands on fast descents like I do with VTs, Michoacan, Distel, etc. due to the skinnier knots. Never considered it could even play a part the way it did for you though..….-
Perhaps it is not because of skinnier knots but because with a blakes hitch the friction provided by the branch or anchor is out of reach and is always being provided. Where with the RW technique, “work them both”, is being used and again in panic mode, I think this would be very difficult. Once again, I suspect that as a light weight climber you are able to descend on just a friction hitch where other heavier climbers and probably the mass number using the RW would simply lock the hitch and not descend.
…I believe that if I had been climbing double rope the situation would have been very different. This has definitely crossed my mind many times and may impact my climbing techniques when I return to work….….-
I do hate to speculate but it is part of learning here and not and indictment of blame or fault. The speculation may not apply to this case but it may to another.
SRT devices can put more of the control in the hands of the climber and thus perhaps more of the risk if not handled correctly. With that comes more efficiency and functionality.
… I tied a running bowline with a yosemite tie off using the tail (had a tight eye splice) there was about 8 inches outside of the knot.….….-
Using that splice eye with hardware may be something to consider although I suspect you will have a recue device for all future climbs.
… …..the climbing line go slack and begin to pile up, spilling out of the tree. …….waited for the ambulance I stared at the tree and there was no rope in it? ……. I've been told that the rescue line didn't separate from my line? ……. Those branches would have caught me? ……I believe that the hitch connected with one of the many branches in the tree and dropped me. ….
….….-
Very good points and excellent questions. I have experience in knowing that SO OFTEN, witness reports are unreliable and effected by conscience and memory. I have a very difficult time thinking of the rescue line going up and over the anchor and/or clearing from the tree as you mentioned you looked up and there was no line in the tree.
… I can't remember the route of the load bearing leg of the SRT line but it surely couldn't have been a clear route.….….-
I know what is being said here, just remember, like in DdRT, BOTH are load bearing legs.
… I am a lighter climber and had a brand new rope, due to the decreased friction of having a new jacket I was attempting to manage it by tying a new variation to my regular hitch. ….….-
Again, being a lighter climber is not my problem, (wish I could have a little of it though) but I suspect that this is an issue that could and should be addressed in the use of SRT tools and techniques.
…… What is clear is that the climbers line should never be cut..….-
THIS IS SO WELL SAID! I would say this for DdRT, SRT as well, there ARE so many BETTER ways to do it and the SPEED is not worth the risk PERIOD! If anyone is going to cut my climbing line I better be dead and they just don’t want to take the time to lower my lifeless coupes the ground.
One last comment from too many comments already. As in most emergencies, I believe step one should be……….do nothing………make it a short step sure but pause before you act.
Again, SO glad you are ok and so grateful that you would share and let others learn from our shared human experience.