Components of a Self-Advancing Knee Ascender (SAKA)

moss · Sep 12, 2014

Thanks for stepping up. I've been doing a lot of tree work the last 7+ months, less room for me to work on gear ideas. It's been more about becoming a tree worker, a good journey, much learned, much more to learn yet.
-AJ

TreeLogic · Sep 16, 2014

yoyoman said:
40+15=65
I like your math. ;-) I'll have to go back and listen, maybe I said 50.
anyway I think it would be reasonable for 55 dollars to have everything assembled so all you have to do is the final attachment of your ascender. or just send me your chest ascender and I'll put it all together.
Yes PM me.

Ha ha, just caught my bad math (or good in your case). However, you said in your vid that the 1" webbing folded in half was 1/4". So right back at ya buddy. That'd be 1/2"

BTW everybody, I just got one of these in the mail. Very nice work! Haven't tried it yet but the man has skills!!!

CWCUDA · Sep 16, 2014

I like how sleek and compact this design is, Richard. My BOTS is working fine but this seems like it will store much better. Do you ever have issues with the foot loop snagging in brushy trees?

Richard Mumford-yoyoman · Sep 16, 2014

TreeLogic said:
Ha ha, just caught my bad math (or good in your case). However, you said in your vid that the 1" webbing folded in half was 1/4". So right back at ya buddy. That'd be 1/2"

BTW everybody, I just got one of these in the mail. Very nice work! Haven't tried it yet but the man has skills!!!

Evidently my skills are not in fractions.

Richard Mumford-yoyoman · Sep 16, 2014

CWCUDA said:
I like how sleek and compact this design is, Richard. My BOTS is working fine but this seems like it will store much better. Do you ever have issues with the foot loop snagging in brushy trees?

I'm mostly wearing the Arbpro boots now I was curious about the same thing and so I have been using the foot loop a lot. I thought perhaps the stap under this sole would lesson my traction. That has not been the case. also the loop is close to the top of the bootso there is little room for anything to get in there. in fact I have found it easier to connect to then the little small loops on the Arbpro boots. But I do love those boots

gmcttr · Sep 19, 2014

I wanted to give this method a try with materials I had on hand for use with my OnRope1 foot loop.

A heat gun was used to round and slightly flair the tubing ends.

I used Barge contact cement to glue a couple of inches of each end of the tubing into 1" tubular webbing.

Overlapped and sewed the two sections together.

And then sewed 1/2" webbing down the center leaving the ends long enough to fold back over itself to attach the CT ascender and to form an attachment loop on the foot end.

I used the same tubing and bungee as yoyoman. This bungee has a longer and strong stretch compared to common bungee cord.

A BIG THANKS to yoyoman for the excellent overall concept and bungee find.

TreeLogic · Sep 19, 2014

Tried it yet?

gmcttr · Sep 19, 2014

TreeLogic said:
Tried it yet?

Just did. After shortening the bungee about 3" and adding a small wiregate biner between the bottom loop and the delta quick link on the foot loop, I couldn't find anything wrong to try to improve. The biner was to turn it 90° and to lengthen it to place the ascender just above my knee.

I like this one better than my two previous attempts with the bungee attached to the top of the ascender as these do best with a bungee over the shoulder which I don't like. At 5'-8" tall, I also like it better than my regular length HAAS, which rides a little too high above my knee.

This SAKA gives me the greatest step height range I've had without an over the shoulder bungee due to the extended buried bungee (just as a HAAS) and the custom fit for my height prevents it from hitting any part of me or other gear that would shorten the step.

Me likey. Thanks again yoyoman!

Richard Mumford-yoyoman · Sep 20, 2014

gmcttr said:
I wanted to give this method a try with materials I had on hand for use with my OnRope1 foot loop.

....

Nice job and heavy duty foot loop. Did you spray the bottom of the webbing with something like plastic dip to help maintain grip? I have found that if that strap gets very wide it can effect the "traction".

Another option and I did this on some of the first ones I built and it may be easier for those that don't want to sew much, is to put both pieces of plastic tubing into 1" inch tubular webbing leaving a smaller distance between tubing but less hand sewing. The reason I went to folding a larger 3" webbing is that I could glue the entire length of tubing to the webbing to keep it in place. It is also possible to put a few stitches into the end of the tubing near the stopper knots, along with the glue, when you get the length just right to keep the tubing in place. Just need to redo the stitches if you have to adjust the length or replace the bungee.

Again, nice job gmcttr!

gmcttr · Sep 20, 2014

yoyoman said:
...Did you spray the bottom of the webbing with something like plastic dip to help maintain grip? ...

Yes, I used a cotton swab to get Barge cement inside the outer edge of the tubular webbing and on the polyethylene tubing for about 2" on each end and then clamped it all in place to dry with clothes pins. Using your method with the 3" webbing would allow more accurate adhesive placement but I 'got her done'.

After the adhesive dried, I used a zipper foot and ran a line of stitching tight against the polyethylene tubing for the full length of each piece before I sewed the two halves together.

Can you give us a link to your 3" webbing source?

I've been thinking about getting a Sailrite Ultrafeed LSZ-1 and it looks like that may be what you're using. How do you like it for this type of work?

Thanks

Richard Mumford-yoyoman · Sep 20, 2014

Yep, love the Sailrite, moss recommend it to me and I am very happy. The foot it came with does this like a welting foot and does it very well.
I'm out of town, when I get back I'll get the source for the 3" webbing.
Never thought I would be a seamstress.

Richard Mumford-yoyoman · Sep 22, 2014

Getting the most from the S.A.K.A setup.
Attachment, minimum bungee, maximum stretch and maximum step.

gmcttr · Sep 25, 2014

The bungee cord yoyoman is using is worth getting. I shortened mine more today than I could have done with other shock cord for even better performance.

Tom Dunlap · Sep 25, 2014

Great looking creations!

Another cottage industry springs up.

gmcttr · Sep 28, 2014

I had the idea that using a single larger diameter tube and 3/16" bungee might make for easier construction so I gave it a try. The tube was glued into 1 1/2" chafe guard and 3/4" tubular polyester webbing was sewn to that for strength and to connect the ascender and lower biner. It didn't turn out to be much easier to make and while it works OK, the two tube version works better so I will stay with that in the future unless I get any more "bright" ideas.

I'm much happier with the new foot loop I made. It works very well without the bulk of the OnRope 1 foot loop underneath that I found allows my foot to slip in some situations. the bottom is stiffened with 6000 lb webbing and I used fixed instead of adjustable elastic.

Richard Mumford-yoyoman · Sep 28, 2014

gmcttr said:
I had the idea that using a single larger diameter tube and ....

Nice work!!
I'm finding the little D I put at the top pretty much not needed. The bungee is shortened to touch the top of the body so I just use the regular clip to hang it on my saddle.
On the foot loop, I'm also not sure if the captive eye is needed, it seems to seek it's own balance point, but on the other hand the is some stability offered with the captive eye.
Your foot loop is certainly heavy duty.
Again, looks good!!!