Yale XTC for bridge

jmcscrap

jmcscrap

Participating member
Location
Woodbury, MN
I remember seeing on here (at least I think so) using XTC or a 16 strand for a rope bridge? If I remember right, the core was removed and used in that manner. If that's the case, would I be able to do that on my Treemotion, and would you use a double fisherman as a stopper knot?
 
I've used that all year on my puma but this is the first I've heard of removing the core. It's in a post on here somewhere if u search for it but it was recommended for its all polyester construction. It's worked out well, I first had it tied to the rings and now thru rigging plates with a DF. As far as the tree motion goes I'm guessing as long as it fits thru I don't see why it wouldn't work.
 
Seems like you would only remove the core if you were splicing it on a saddle for a bridge. Velocity is the biggest rope I've been able to fit in the bridge holes of the TM.
 
Finally, someone with a Puma...

joezilla11,

I want a puma but i am concerned about tool attachment points. Is there even a way to attach a large cari-tool? What about a paddle carabiner? any info would be a great help, thanks!
 
GP,

I have the Viking, which is the same identical saddle as the Puma (also called the buck-cat), just depends who you buy it from as buckingham has different names weather you buy it from Wesspur/Sherrill/etc.

I love it. as for attachment points that are stock (as can be seen online) are a steel clip and steel ring on the belt on both sides of the saddle so you can mount a saw left or right handed, there are 2 soft gear loops as well as several small d rings for a ditty bag or other little add ons. I have also put on a Large cartitool on the right side as there is enough room to get it installed but very snug as it doesnt move around at all.

I would totally recommend it.

-Steven
 
Like Steve said there is a slot on each side for a caritool. I use a paddle and fits in just fine. The viking/puma is almost identical to the cougar which seems to be liked as well. Only issue I had was with biners getting hooked on the rubber bumpers on the warpspeed bridge but a medium ring will solve that, or tying your own bridge. And if the excess length of the leg straps is an issue there's a simple fix for that without cutting.
 
I take an extra wrap around the leg strap itself to take up enough of the material so the velcro meshes very nicely. it doesnt need to be tight at all, just threaded around the leg strap so it shortens it a little. ill post a picture if necessary.

I put on a Petzl small swivel on my bridge and it doesnt get hung up on the rubber stops at all, really was a good completion to my climbing system.

-Steven
 
That is an easy fix. Here is mine i had posted on another forum awhile back. Keeps everything neat and inline. Tying around itself sounds simple enough tho.

Right where the leg strap goes in and comes out of the buckle you can tape it to itself there and then run it back over and onto the Velcro. So if you tape it about 2 inches then its runs back the 2 inches , you just took 4 inches off the length of that long strap. it's not load bearing its just holding the slack in place. I use two webbing 'belt keepers' on each strap. It works the same way and you can take em off if you need to readjust the length of the leg straps. Keeps everything tidy without having to cut or alterate your gear. It's an easy fix if it doesn't make sense let me know ill put up a pic.
 
Speaking of bridges, has the bridge for the Edge saddle (2012 model) been recalled. Also has anyone here used it? Any thoughts on it..
 
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