Just bought a Rope Man 1 to use on an adjustable bridge configuration that 39buick has on his saddle and have come across some comments that I can't find any concrete information on. Does anyone have any info on what might be the issue. After my purchase last week, amazon is listing it as unavailable with no further information regarding it. Appreciate any help. It looks like a solid piece of gear that will do that job well.
Wild Country Rope Man 1 question
- Thread starter oldoakman
- Start date
Care to elaborate? Should I be concerned? I did a quick search and couldn't find any info on potential issues.
I do recall reading something somewhere that mentioned that the device was hard on the rope but using the Sterling Tritech has shown no ill effect from the Ropeman.
You have me curious!!
evo
Been here much more than a while
- Location
- My Island, WA
I think the teeth on v1 are very aggressive compared to v2.. I think it’s fine in this application, not unlike the roll’n’lock just more deeply cut teeth.
I have found some references that seem to be conflicting and they have all come from mountaineering sites.
What has been discussed is the amount of slippage that occurs during a fall on various rope grabs and ascenders.
Most opinions and negative comments were concerning the v2 and the damage the sharp pointed teeth damaged the sheath of the rope during use.
The ropeman supposedly has zero slippage but will cut the rope at only 4kn. The conflicting part comes in to play determining weather it was v1 or v2 that was tested and found to cut the rope.
Some forums say v1 and others v2. In either case perhaps it would be wise to choose a different device!
I haven't found a definitive answer yet! Hoping others will chime in with some better info!
What has been discussed is the amount of slippage that occurs during a fall on various rope grabs and ascenders.
Most opinions and negative comments were concerning the v2 and the damage the sharp pointed teeth damaged the sheath of the rope during use.
The ropeman supposedly has zero slippage but will cut the rope at only 4kn. The conflicting part comes in to play determining weather it was v1 or v2 that was tested and found to cut the rope.
Some forums say v1 and others v2. In either case perhaps it would be wise to choose a different device!
I haven't found a definitive answer yet! Hoping others will chime in with some better info!
Taking a fall with that device is asking for trouble period. But saying that, one would probably break their back first anyway. Be careful using it. Tread lightly, Oak you should know better. You don't need that shite. An adjustable prussic would be better.
Using it on an adjustable bridge swing. Any way you look at it a fall would hurt. I believe the more aggressive teeth are on the rm2 according to what I have read. A Prussia would have the right side of my saddle awfully busy making grabbing the wrong thing more likely.
- Location
- Chardon, OH
Many years ago, I bought a Ropeman 1.
Then I read a thread here on TreeBuzz that convinced me I should be using a Ropeman 2, to minimize rope damage.
So I exchanged v1 for v2.
Still later I thought that I made the wrong decision to exchange. Both can cause rope damage when shock loaded.
I don't even remember the application that I intended; and never used it for climbing.
It is currently in use, w/ utility cordage, on my Big Shot to hold the "cocked" sling while I attach the quick release.
Seems REI carries both:
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Just looking out for ya. It's just those dam teeth and a bridge seems sketchy. Be good. And safe.
evo
Been here much more than a while
- Location
- My Island, WA
I agree. I did install a roll’n’lock, I don’t use it much but when I want it I love it. However I did install a backup bridge. I don’t really use the backup as a second bridge but a piece of mind. I also don’t really use the lower dee’s.
I’m starting to fall out of love with my TM, and it’s wearing out. Leaning to the onyx or the monkey beaver. I want to keep an adjustable bridge and wondering if anyone knows how hard it is to take the rigging plate off?
The rigging plates are removable by simply unlacing the buckles. I would pay particular attention to how they are laced just to be sure they go back on the correct way!
I really like my MB, fits well and is super comfy. Well worth my investment!
evo
Been here much more than a while
- Location
- My Island, WA
Cool good to know. I was hoping the stitching on the webbing tails didn’t need to be cut. I know new tribe didn’t endorse it but on the prototype video they had shackles to an adjustable rope grab.
See not a total derail
I’ve little to add, but want to mention I am paying attention to this.
Bought 2 Ropemans (Ropemen?
) a long time ago and haven’t done anything with them except try putting them in places where I usually have a rope grab or ascender, shaking my head, and taking them back off. Old grey and red ones but MK. 1, cam with ridges not teeth.
If the spring wasn’t so strong and tight, they could be a cool tiny knee ascender, but they grip too hard even on 11mm rope with a 3/16” or 1/4” screwlink instead of a thicker biner.
I used one for adjustable chainsaw lanyard for a couple days, but it was unnecessary I think. There’s much faster ways to tether and stow a saw.
I’ve been considering an adjustable bridge though, and the RM will keep it compact.
So tiny!
Bought 2 Ropemans (Ropemen?
) a long time ago and haven’t done anything with them except try putting them in places where I usually have a rope grab or ascender, shaking my head, and taking them back off. Old grey and red ones but MK. 1, cam with ridges not teeth.If the spring wasn’t so strong and tight, they could be a cool tiny knee ascender, but they grip too hard even on 11mm rope with a 3/16” or 1/4” screwlink instead of a thicker biner.
I used one for adjustable chainsaw lanyard for a couple days, but it was unnecessary I think. There’s much faster ways to tether and stow a saw.
I’ve been considering an adjustable bridge though, and the RM will keep it compact.
So tiny!
evo
Been here much more than a while
- Location
- My Island, WA
Only time I've seen one in consistent play was for a O rig adjuster on 16 strand. They are pretty cute, and I've kept wracking my brain to think of another viable purpose for one.. Alas, I still don't own one.
Joeybagodonuts
Participating member
- Location
- Boondocks
I thought it was the other way around.. V1 (blue) had the Cams & V2 (orange) had the Teeth, like a hand ascender.. honestly i think there are more than two versions that have been made.. IIRC, i swear DMM was making one at one point, it was black & red with cam teeth, just like the one Bango posted.
Well, I'd rather have some slippage over cutting or ripping.. obviously there's no friendly slippage with the toothed version.
Not to discount the concern here but, isn't this the case with all mechanical "grabs", Cammed ones can Cut/Strip & Toothed will Rip/Strip.. Is the concern a new one? Or are these mountaineering sites just going over the studies again causing a renewed concern..
Hearing this is bummer as i just FINALLY got my ever evolving setup dialed in nice & tidy using the Blue cammed version with a small shackle through my MB plate. I tried the Roll'nLock (awesome device) but i felt it too bulky & could never get it to sit nice on my plate no matter what angle or hole i used.. Same went for the existing Blue Rope Man, while using just zip ties, could never get it right, it was always at funky angles &..... just blahh.. Yeah it worked.. even without crabs & only zip ties securing it closed... in fact thats how i ran it mostly until i figured out the shackle setup.
Also, not for nothing but i believe this little rope man is being used on a adjustable bridge saddle, being produce in France. I'm pretty sure that saddle has all the legit EU markings as well, i could be wrong though, i just recall viewing the manual & seeing certs. Antec? Does that sound familiar? I think they may or may not make climbing spurs as well.. the blue ones over at Shelter.
You seen an early proto that had shackles & a grab? Are we talking about August's Video with his buddy Joe where they go over the harness? Or did you see something different than that. Interested in seeing other MB setups.
Now, on my MB i had to snip the folded over tails to muck around with the plates.. Save went for the leg straps, but i think i did that just for ease of being able to thread it doubled back through plate.
Just a word to the wise, if you snip, make sure to rethread the rise exactly the same.. The first week i had it, I made the mistake of leaving it half assed with just one complete pass through tri-bar thinking it would be fine for a few moments & easier to adjust as i tried to dial it in. Well, after a very short climb (1hr) they had almost worked completely out out of the tri-bar... Had about an inch left of tail after starting with 5 or 6in.. Bad, Bad, move on my part.
Regardless, to answer your Q, the ends on mine had to be snipped to unweave.. I'm going to end up restitching as they kinda still move a little & settle.. but what saddle doesn't...
+1 used it there.. sometimes i like to use these little grabs for progressing with mechanical advantage instead of a prusik that once weighted will sometimes need to be wiggled loose to move... Like progressing with the hook.. couple it with a pulley & just shove it up.. instead of having to fight with bound up wraps. But.. i ain't spouting nothing you don't already know.. just explaining where Ive found it useful.
Edit-thought i had some pics posting but i guess not, sorry for so many words & no pictures!
Joeybagodonuts
Participating member
- Location
- Boondocks
@oldoakman
@39Buick
Did either of you notice the timeframe at which these concerns were voiced?
I did a bit of brainstorming & remembered where i found the harness i was referencing with the Rope Man bridge available as an option. It was an Antec (owned by Miller?).. This PDF im linking below shows EN certification? Either way, it a fall protection company selling a harness with an adjustable bridge & all the instructions for it.. I'd say maybe a third party is retrofitting the bridge like that, hence the "FTC" reference, but then i see it right there in Antec's manual.
Here's pdf -
Here's product page -
www.elagage-hevea.com
@39Buick
Did either of you notice the timeframe at which these concerns were voiced?
I did a bit of brainstorming & remembered where i found the harness i was referencing with the Rope Man bridge available as an option. It was an Antec (owned by Miller?).. This PDF im linking below shows EN certification? Either way, it a fall protection company selling a harness with an adjustable bridge & all the instructions for it.. I'd say maybe a third party is retrofitting the bridge like that, hence the "FTC" reference, but then i see it right there in Antec's manual.
Here's pdf -
Here's product page -
MÉLÈZE 3.1 + pont central réglable | Baudrier d'élagage - HONEYWELL/FTC
Baudrier Mélèze 3.1 avec pont central réglable pour arboriste grimpeurs, très confortable et pratique, conçu par Honeywell et FTC. Il offre une amplitude de mouvement egale à un modèle cuissard et il est possible d'ancrer la longe de maintien sur les manilles de suspensions.
www.elagage-hevea.com
@oldoakman
@39Buick
Did either of you notice the timeframe at which these concerns were voiced?
I did a bit of brainstorming & remembered where i found the harness i was referencing with the Rope Man bridge available as an option. It was an Antec (owned by Miller?).. This PDF im linking below shows EN certification? Either way, it a fall protection company selling a harness with an adjustable bridge & all the instructions for it.. I'd say maybe a third party is retrofitting the bridge like that, hence the "FTC" reference, but then i see it right there in Antec's manual.
Here's pdf -
Here's product page -
MÉLÈZE 3.1 + pont central réglable | Baudrier d'élagage - HONEYWELL/FTC
Baudrier Mélèze 3.1 avec pont central réglable pour arboriste grimpeurs, très confortable et pratique, conçu par Honeywell et FTC. Il offre une amplitude de mouvement egale à un modèle cuissard et il est possible d'ancrer la longe de maintien sur les manilles de suspensions.
Welcome to the Treebuzz Joey!!
Most of the information I found was from 8 to 10 years ago. I believe that's why the info is kinda all over the place as to exactly which version tested so poorly. Also most if not all of the info was from mountaineering sites. The consensus was the Ropeman would cut the sheath of the rope at like 4kn during drop testing. Since rock climbers expect to take a fall from time to time they were shying away from the device, and for good reason.
I have been running the MK1 for a couple of years as a rec climber as a bridge adjuster. It just hit all the check marks for me and is a smaller more compact piece of kit than the rollinlock or that other crappy Italian POS.
I check my saddle, ropes and gear before each climbing session and keep an eye on critical pieces as I climb and so far I have not noticed any adverse effects from running the device as an adjuster. I don't think I would use this particular device for anything else. The spring on it is extremely tight so using it as an ascender would be cumbersome compared to other more fluid devices available.
I appreciate you posting the link to the Antec saddle. I feel a bit better seeing this as an approved/certified bridge adjuster at least in the EU!!
I do have this thought in the back of my brain now due to everything I have read and has shaken my confidence in the piece so I may be swapping it out anyway! It's a tough decision though because it has worked so well!
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