Why do climbers shun sawzalls?
- Thread starter eyehearttrees
- Start date
ATH
Been here much more than a while
- Location
- Findlay, Ohio
They are good for that....and I do it a handful of times. But if I were cutting a bunch of rods, I'd use a cordless angle grinder. A sawzall is probably safer though.
If I wanted to use a sugoi I will be using a chainsaw. What a big and bulky thing. Dumped them almost eight years ago. Big and clumsy things. Plus curved saws make tripping hinges dumb. Nothing like a staight blade for that and snap cuts too. Shit I detest curved handsaws period. For a removal I am using a handsaw less.
- Location
- Retired in Minneapolis
Treat them like chainsaws
SomethingWitty
Arkansawyer
- Location
- LR
I one hand them while I'm holding the piece I'm working on all the time.
I do, however, usually wear welding gloves when I'm doing that. I understand that a grinding disc or cutoff wheel that bounces off of my wrist is likely to forever change my manual dexterity, but it's just such a different critter from a chainsaw. It's more predictable when knocking off some mill scale or beveling an edge than even routine chainsaw work.
I won't do that when I am cutting something that could pinch the wheel.
Joeybagodonuts
Participating member
- Location
- Boondocks
Putting your bias towards curved aside just for a sec.. do you not feel as if your losing a energy advantage using a straight or is it negligible..? I've never had my hands on a straight & want one for all the reasons you just mentioned, but on the other hand don't want to lose the speed/aggressiveness i have with the Sugoi 360..
If there was a straight blade with the same XL/TPI i don't think I'd hesitate.. I'm looking for 5-6 TPI in a straight, does it exist? You'd think it does considering the plethora of models.
Also, is it just me or does the Sugoi's scabbard seem way way bigger than it needs to be..
ATH
Been here much more than a while
- Location
- Findlay, Ohio
I've never used a Tsurugi with large teeth...but it can't be much slower than a Sugoi as the medium tooth Tsurugi almost keeps pace when it is new.
I'm also not convinced that curved blades are much faster...especially not in "handsaw-sized" wood.
I'm also not convinced that curved blades are much faster...especially not in "handsaw-sized" wood.
ATH
Been here much more than a while
- Location
- Findlay, Ohio
PS: I guess I'll find out...just went to see about TPI and amazon had a 300mm with large teeth for $33.14. Heck yeah! Said last one...but you can try looking! I clicked on the 400mm medium teeth saw that was $95.something then there was a drop down menu with different sizes.
- Location
- Retired in Minneapolis
The radius of the curve is related to ergonomics, maybe that's known.
As the saw is drawn though it's cut the wrist bends. The curve is designed to keep the wrist from hyper extending. The Silky reps who attend Expo are sooooo helpful.
As the saw is drawn though it's cut the wrist bends. The curve is designed to keep the wrist from hyper extending. The Silky reps who attend Expo are sooooo helpful.
ATH
Been here much more than a while
- Location
- Findlay, Ohio
I did not know that...it is always advertised that curved blades offer faster cutting.
- Location
- Retired in Minneapolis
Oh
Ohh...another detail that the Silky reps shared.
The curve also keeps each tooth aligned perpendicular to the wood being cut. This angle is similar to how a chisel can be used to chop or shave wood. It depends on the approach angle and force needed to remove wood. The quality of the remaining wood is different too.
Look at the angle of the teeth on curved blades. See how they are arranged in aligned with the complex arc of curved blades. Then look at how the pull angle of the blade through the cut changes.
Very subtle engineering that pays off in efficiency in each cut. But more important, good ergonomics pays off huge dividends after a life-time, less so in day to day work.
Ohh...another detail that the Silky reps shared.
The curve also keeps each tooth aligned perpendicular to the wood being cut. This angle is similar to how a chisel can be used to chop or shave wood. It depends on the approach angle and force needed to remove wood. The quality of the remaining wood is different too.
Look at the angle of the teeth on curved blades. See how they are arranged in aligned with the complex arc of curved blades. Then look at how the pull angle of the blade through the cut changes.
Very subtle engineering that pays off in efficiency in each cut. But more important, good ergonomics pays off huge dividends after a life-time, less so in day to day work.
ATH
Been here much more than a while
- Location
- Findlay, Ohio
Are there diameters where that matters or does not? Once I get above more than 5-6 limbs that are 5-6" in diameter it is chainsaw time (18V Makita brings that on a little sooner than it used to...).
I can't imagine it makes a difference on 2" diameter wood...but maybe it does. I'll seek out the Silky booth at Expo. Just registered last night.
I can't imagine it makes a difference on 2" diameter wood...but maybe it does. I'll seek out the Silky booth at Expo. Just registered last night.
That's why I would like to take the contemptible stick saws away from our crews. Damned near impossible to make an accurate correct cut with them. Shigo always preached that man has yet to create a tool that can make the absolute perfect cut as far as the tree is concerned. Maybe the Silky's are coming close. I love mine.
ATH
Been here much more than a while
- Location
- Findlay, Ohio
That is why I like the straight blade better... On tight forks, it is hard to get the last little piece in the middle with a curved saw.
Serf Life
Been here much more than a while
- Location
- Maine Island
Have a shorty straight blade for orchards and fiddily stuff, curved otherwise. In hindsight I would have liked a blade with super fine teeth at the tip and more aggressive by the handle for fruit wood. Good point on hinging wood @swingdude.
Joeybagodonuts
Participating member
- Location
- Boondocks
That was for a complete saw?
Amazon is out of control with price consistency.. i use to go there for deals 5 -10 years ago to avoid the local retail traps in general.. (auto parts, hardware, etc)... But now... I'm finding the local retail traps are now sometimes less than Amazon.
rope-a-dope
Branched out member
- Location
- Asheville
Never used a sawzall in the tree but I can recall times when it could have been nice regarding vine covered trees. God knows what it looked like when I had to do building clearance on the Leyland underneath a kudzu tsunami. With a handsaw. No way was I gonna try swinging a 200 around inside a vine web with nothing but 1inch Leyland branches to balance on or lanyard in to...so I slayed the dragon with dazzling swordplay.
Several of my crew mates were asking if I was okay...
Several of my crew mates were asking if I was okay...
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