Guys, this is my second season climbing and I'm in the market for a new climbing rope. I've been using a 120' XTC Fire and have been pleased with it. Unfortunately I made a rookie mistake this week on choosing a tie in spot in a locust in a crotch that appeared to have a tiny split in it. Yeah, I know, BAD CHOICE. Anyways, wedged my rope in too deep to recover and had to go back up and cut my rope. My boss swears by True Blue and nothing else. I am keen on how soft and manageable True Blue is but would like some opinions on my next choice of climbing line. I like how True Blue seems broken in right out of the box but I feel as thought the true blue wears much faster than my more rigid XTC Fire. How about some opinions from some of you guys that have already forgotten more then I've learned yet.
which rope to buy?
- Thread starter Tucker943
- Start date
I've found that True Blue is comfortable to use, knots well, stores easily without cockling, and has held up well so far, but it is rather stretchy, making for a bouncy ascent and a tendency to twist while I'm climbing. I've since turned it into a lowering line, which it does fine at. I'm experimenting with different ropes now too, trying to decide which direction to go with my next one.
Kakumyo
Kakumyo
- Location
- North of Boston
I would say either ArborMaster or New England Safety Blue High Vee.
- Location
- Retired in Minneapolis
True Blue is probably the largest diameter and heaviest rope that's commonly used as a climbing rope. If you choose one of the 16 strand/half inch ropes or make the move to one of the 11mm ropes you'll be much happier I think.
There are differences in the various ropes. If I were to use half inch ropes it would probably be Yale or New England. My favorite rope for climbing right now is Blaze.
There are differences in the various ropes. If I were to use half inch ropes it would probably be Yale or New England. My favorite rope for climbing right now is Blaze.
- Location
- Canon City ,CO
I have been pleased with every arborist rope I have tried....which includes many but by no means all of those available. I find that the Arbormaster (Bluestreak/Goldstreak)is my favorite for DdRT climbing.
- Location
- Lexington, KY- USA
I will second the Arbormaster for a 1/2 inch rope. The Blaze or Poison Ivy if you want to go with a 11mm rope. I have also heard good things about the Fly which is also an 11mm.
Raven
Branched out member
- Location
- Northwoods
New England Safety Blue- IMO best all around rope for your buck.
or you coud go back to XTC- also good stuff
then there's Blaze if you want 11mil
Sampson's ArborMaster ropes are also high quality
heck they're all good. you'll probably find as many "favorite ropes" as there are ropes themselves.
Seriously though, try using a short rope on short trees, 80' is usually plenty long and a LOT less tail to drag around. Some guys tell me they've got six different lenths but that's overkill. I personally bring to work 80' of Safety Blue, 120' of Yellow Jacket, and 200' of Blaze. Color coding helps avoid confusion.
or you coud go back to XTC- also good stuff
then there's Blaze if you want 11mil
Sampson's ArborMaster ropes are also high quality
heck they're all good. you'll probably find as many "favorite ropes" as there are ropes themselves.
Seriously though, try using a short rope on short trees, 80' is usually plenty long and a LOT less tail to drag around. Some guys tell me they've got six different lenths but that's overkill. I personally bring to work 80' of Safety Blue, 120' of Yellow Jacket, and 200' of Blaze. Color coding helps avoid confusion.
- Location
- Lexington, KY- USA
Having a variety of lengths is a very good idea. I have a 40' rope that I use all of the time. It is perfect for small trees.
Treespotter
New member
- Location
- Houten, The Netherlands
Welcome Tucker,
Before you start looking for a new rope, look for a Friction Saver that you can install in the tree without the need of a crotch to hang it 'over' (see attachment).
Think of the diameter of the rope and weather it would handle for you... A too small diameter is not working for me (can't grip the rope). After years of 13mm I got the Velocity and was very pleased with the weight. But after a few months I discontinued the rope because it was to little volume in my hands to handle. I use a Samson Speedline now.
Jesse,
[ QUOTE ]
Having a variety of lengths is a very good idea. I have a 40' rope that I use all of the time. It is perfect for small trees.
[/ QUOTE ]
I've got a couple of lengths as well, but I always use a length that can get me out of the tree in one go.
Just think of some scenario's that a coworker must get into the tree just because you passed out after cutting yourselve and had to reposition your rope a few times just to get down.
My favorite (in case of an accident) would be; pull the hitch and make a speedy descent in one go.
Before you start looking for a new rope, look for a Friction Saver that you can install in the tree without the need of a crotch to hang it 'over' (see attachment).
Think of the diameter of the rope and weather it would handle for you... A too small diameter is not working for me (can't grip the rope). After years of 13mm I got the Velocity and was very pleased with the weight. But after a few months I discontinued the rope because it was to little volume in my hands to handle. I use a Samson Speedline now.
Jesse,
[ QUOTE ]
Having a variety of lengths is a very good idea. I have a 40' rope that I use all of the time. It is perfect for small trees.
[/ QUOTE ]
I've got a couple of lengths as well, but I always use a length that can get me out of the tree in one go.
Just think of some scenario's that a coworker must get into the tree just because you passed out after cutting yourselve and had to reposition your rope a few times just to get down.
My favorite (in case of an accident) would be; pull the hitch and make a speedy descent in one go.
Attachments
- Location
- Central NJ
That's one slick looking false crotch. Can it be rigged from the ground? Where did you get it? Do I want to know how much it costs?
The Fly 11mm - a 'True' kernmantle, or Yale XTC.
Both pass the EN1891 Type A test. Having a rope that won't hurt you when that little peg breaks above the crotch you think you're on, is a wise choice. The Fly also has the majority of its strength in the core, and should retain more strength over time.
Both pass the EN1891 Type A test. Having a rope that won't hurt you when that little peg breaks above the crotch you think you're on, is a wise choice. The Fly also has the majority of its strength in the core, and should retain more strength over time.
- Location
- Lansing, NY
I have used the XTC then switched over to the Velocity and Piosion Ivy High Vis they all are good knot control light wieght and work great with or without climbing hardwear. I would not go to nuts on the cut rope make a laynard or have the rope halves for smaller climbs.
I appreciate everything you guys have suggested. The cut in half rope I mentioned earlier will go to good use for low climbs. Also, the false crotch is something I often use at work. Have any of you ever noticed that things always go wrong when you are simply doing a 10 minute climb for someone to "get rid of the dead limb real quick." I didnt ruin my rope on a jobsite at work. I ruined it doing a "quick favor" for a family member. It seems that I always encounter some sort of headache when doing a simple favor. Anyways, enough of me rambling on. I live 10 minutes from American Arborist and will venture there this week with many of the suggestions in mind that you guys have made.
- Location
- SE Louisiana
[ QUOTE ]
... Have any of you ever noticed that things always go wrong when you are simply doing a 10 minute climb for someone to "get rid of the dead limb real quick." I didnt ruin my rope on a jobsite at work. I ruined it doing a "quick favor" for a family member. It seems that I always encounter some sort of headache when doing a simple favor.
[/ QUOTE ]
Yup. I think it is one of Murphy's correlaries. "No good deed goes unpunished".
... Have any of you ever noticed that things always go wrong when you are simply doing a 10 minute climb for someone to "get rid of the dead limb real quick." I didnt ruin my rope on a jobsite at work. I ruined it doing a "quick favor" for a family member. It seems that I always encounter some sort of headache when doing a simple favor.
[/ QUOTE ]
Yup. I think it is one of Murphy's correlaries. "No good deed goes unpunished".
Treespotter
New member
- Location
- Houten, The Netherlands
[ QUOTE ]
That's one slick looking false crotch. Can it be rigged from the ground? Where did you get it? Do I want to know how much it costs?
[/ QUOTE ]
/forum/images/graemlins/smirk.gif I think I have to ask Mark to put it in the articles, you are not the first to ask.
Can it be rigged from the ground? Yes, in two ways.
The first is the hard way, see attachment, but you are ready to do all the work the slick way without the need of reconfiguring when you are up in the tree at the place where the Friction Saver is.
The second is by using the two rings as a regular Friction Saver. When you worked your way up you can reconfigure to the pulley thru the ring way.
I got myselve a Cresto two ring Friction Saver, cut off the big ring and replaced it with a ART pulley. Than I put a short dymeemaa sling on the FS by a prussic and attached a big ring on that.
Cost? I don't know what the prices are in the States
That's one slick looking false crotch. Can it be rigged from the ground? Where did you get it? Do I want to know how much it costs?
[/ QUOTE ]
/forum/images/graemlins/smirk.gif I think I have to ask Mark to put it in the articles, you are not the first to ask.
Can it be rigged from the ground? Yes, in two ways.
The first is the hard way, see attachment, but you are ready to do all the work the slick way without the need of reconfiguring when you are up in the tree at the place where the Friction Saver is.
The second is by using the two rings as a regular Friction Saver. When you worked your way up you can reconfigure to the pulley thru the ring way.
I got myselve a Cresto two ring Friction Saver, cut off the big ring and replaced it with a ART pulley. Than I put a short dymeemaa sling on the FS by a prussic and attached a big ring on that.
Cost? I don't know what the prices are in the States
speaking of no favor going un punished....
one of my climbers last year did a favor for a family member limbing a redwood up over the house. he had bid it for our comp to do but you know relatives..they talked him into doing it and he planted his ms200t in the top of his knee...the branch was heavy and snapped mid cut pulling his saw down and tearing his knee open.....hows that for helping your family.. all to save about 4 to 500 bucks aand cost him a few weeks off with no pay.....tough lil sob came back about 3 days later and ran a tractor for me on a monster removal job ..busted most of his stitches out working the pedals..never complained once...god bless him for being a loyal employee.
one of my climbers last year did a favor for a family member limbing a redwood up over the house. he had bid it for our comp to do but you know relatives..they talked him into doing it and he planted his ms200t in the top of his knee...the branch was heavy and snapped mid cut pulling his saw down and tearing his knee open.....hows that for helping your family.. all to save about 4 to 500 bucks aand cost him a few weeks off with no pay.....tough lil sob came back about 3 days later and ran a tractor for me on a monster removal job ..busted most of his stitches out working the pedals..never complained once...god bless him for being a loyal employee.
- Location
- Central NJ
[ QUOTE ]
/forum/images/graemlins/smirk.gif I think I have to ask Mark to put it in the articles, you are not the first to ask.
Can it be rigged from the ground? Yes, in two ways.
The first is the hard way, see attachment, but you are ready to do all the work the slick way without the need of reconfiguring when you are up in the tree at the place where the Friction Saver is.
The second is by using the two rings as a regular Friction Saver. When you worked your way up you can reconfigure to the pulley thru the ring way.
I got myselve a Cresto two ring Friction Saver, cut off the big ring and replaced it with a ART pulley. Than I put a short dymeemaa sling on the FS by a prussic and attached a big ring on that.
Cost? I don't know what the prices are in the States
[/ QUOTE ]
OK, now I understand the installation methods. Whats the trick to removing your FS? Will a simple overhand knot fit through the ART pulley and hang-up on the 'harp'?
/forum/images/graemlins/smirk.gif I think I have to ask Mark to put it in the articles, you are not the first to ask.
Can it be rigged from the ground? Yes, in two ways.
The first is the hard way, see attachment, but you are ready to do all the work the slick way without the need of reconfiguring when you are up in the tree at the place where the Friction Saver is.
The second is by using the two rings as a regular Friction Saver. When you worked your way up you can reconfigure to the pulley thru the ring way.
I got myselve a Cresto two ring Friction Saver, cut off the big ring and replaced it with a ART pulley. Than I put a short dymeemaa sling on the FS by a prussic and attached a big ring on that.
Cost? I don't know what the prices are in the States
[/ QUOTE ]
OK, now I understand the installation methods. Whats the trick to removing your FS? Will a simple overhand knot fit through the ART pulley and hang-up on the 'harp'?
Treespotter
New member
- Location
- Houten, The Netherlands
[ QUOTE ]
Whats the trick to removing your FS? Will a simple overhand knot fit through the ART pulley and hang-up on the 'harp'?
[/ QUOTE ]
No, the knot will be to thick. The little harp (that's Dutch, I can't remember the English word for it) is big enough to slide along the rope, but small enough to catch the spliced eye (the rope is slightly thicker just before the eye).
Whats the trick to removing your FS? Will a simple overhand knot fit through the ART pulley and hang-up on the 'harp'?
[/ QUOTE ]
No, the knot will be to thick. The little harp (that's Dutch, I can't remember the English word for it) is big enough to slide along the rope, but small enough to catch the spliced eye (the rope is slightly thicker just before the eye).
- Location
- Hawaii
could someone explain to me the benefit of this pulley friction saver over the traditional two ringed friction saver??
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