Weaver Wide Back D Harness

Big thanks to Jeff and Brocky.
Jeff I really appreciate the ID on the ropes as I had no idea what they were. I also did not realize how easy the hollow braid was to splice (at least looking at the vids) and look forward to tackling the project.
Brocky, much appreciate you taking the time to post the pics. However I plan to use the solid braid as an in tree rope for positioning and such with knotted biners, so I will not be splicing it....which is lucky because I have a feeling my third attempt would probably be about 3 to the left of your first attempt :-)
 
IMG_2566[2].webp Big thanks to JeffGu,
Put my first fixed eye splice in the 5/8th hollow core. Did a deep bury with a coat hanger as a fid, came out fine (IMHO) just need to find a suitable needle and twine to do the lock stitch to finalize the splice.
 
Fantastic! Now, you'll have to prepare yourself for the addiction factor... luckily, there is a support group. It's called the splicing forum because How the hell do I get my wife to stop complaining about converting her sewing room into a splicing room? was just way too long.
 
Hey guys, was going to make a whoopie sling with each of the pieces of Tenex hollow core.

Went to the instructions on the Samson site and I am confused/concerned. The instructions say to make "Mark A" 1 fid length from the end of the line.

Looking at the illustrations 1B and 1C they say not to bury "Mark A" and show Mark A about 1/3rd of a fid from meeting the entry side of the standing line. If you follow these drawings, then after making your two insertions through the rope, it would only leave about 1/2 of a fid length of rope for the "bury" which does not seem like much to me.

See illustration,
http://www.samsonrope.com/Documents/Splice Instructions/12Strand_C1_Whoopie_Sling_Tenex_Tenex-TEC_WEB.pdf

While they say not to bury the mark in the standing line, both illustrations show it not only not buried, but spaced about 1/3 of a fid length from the edge of the standing line.

So my question is,

Do you think the illustrations are misleading and they really want you to make "Mark A about 2 fid lengths from the end and proceed as shown in the drawings with Mark A spaced about 1/3rd fid from the standing line.

Or make "Mark A" about 1.5 fid lengths from the end of the rope. And pull "Mark A" to the edge of the entry side of the standing line? This after the two insertions, would leave you about a fid length for the bury. This seems like it would be a lot more likely to hold the load.
 
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I'm guessing the illustration is a little off. It would seem you should have mark A right next to the insertion but not inside or on the other side. Plus the eye size would be right then also.
 
Brocky said:
I'm guessing the illustration is a little off. It would seem you should have mark A right next to the insertion but not inside or on the other side. Plus the eye size would be right then also.
Click to expand...

Thanks Brocky, that was my guess as well, but I definitely wanted to make sure....It would have been kind of hard to bury the rope a fids length when only half a fid of rope was available :-)
 
Don't short your self I bought a buckingham wife back regretted it from the first climb, bought a tree motion lite n love it. But now I'm stuck with a saddle that has only been used maybe 10 climbs and no one buys used saddles r.i.p to me.For what my opinion is worth save the money and buy a good one, find a place relatively close to you so you can try one on. Good luck boss, stay comfy up there.


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Hey Seedling, I am in the same boat, maybe we could find a guy who owns a tree company to buy yours and mine and he could run an add saying "Apprentice tree climbers wanted no experience required, saddles provided, applicants must have a durable pelvis and small huevos!"
 
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