Using the constrictor as a pull down - no fear!

I watched the vid.

Are you using Slickline? It looks pretty big. All that I've used is 1.2---2mm throwline for years. The small line is really hard to pick apart.

Those gloves are thinner than what I wore. Nice, but too spendy :) I used ski gloves which are a bit bulkier.
 
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I watched the vid.

Are you using Slickline? It looks pretty big. All that I've used is 1.2---2mm throwline for years. The small line is really hard to pick apart.

Those gloves are thinner than what I wore. Nice, but too spendy :) I used ski gloves which are a bit bulkier.

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It is SlickLine; I use it in my trees because the bigger size is kinder to the trees and since I climb them a lot...

SlickLine would be easier to work with in big gloves, no doubt about that. The smaller, 'high-tech' stuff is a bit more difficult to untie, and of course, especially with big gloves. But I use the constrictor on 2.2 ZingIt too and it's a little more difficult than SlickLine but far from a knife knot.

Not everyone will find themselves in big gloves and may find the constrictor knot quite appropriate for rope removal. That's certainly been the case for me.
 
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Slipped F8 is the way I've tied throwbags for, um, decades, hardly new.

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I did not say it was new nor did i claim that I created it...if you noticed I said it was passed through arborist to arborist...

bad day at work or something? sheesh
ahhhhh.gif
 
Using a throw line to bring down the rope is the last thing on my mind....I just pull and hope it doesnt wipe across my back!!! haha........I dont know, never really had that big of a problem with a rope getting stuck in a tree!
 
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Any knot/hitch can be tied in a 'slipped/slippery' fashion. That makes untieing easy.

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Not in my experience: if a knot's jammed hard, having
a slipped finish is little help -- that's just part of
the jam (and pulling it out, in many materials, creates
a bulge at the u-turn so when that comes snug to the
knot it doesn't come out). I regard the slipping-makes
untying-easy claim partly myth (easy when it would be
pretty easy anyway; not easy and maybe not possible
when the knot's jammed).

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Not tieing constrictors using the slip makes them a knife knot in my experience dang!

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Can be, but often one can jerk an end a bit parallel to
the bound/hitched object and pull out enough of the other
end's nip of the pulled end to then work the knot loose.
And I've had some Constrictor whippings loosen, over time
(and yet have found flotsam-jetsam rope with what looked
to be maybe a Constrictor but actually a Clove w/added
Half-hitch finish holding very tightly). YMMV.
(Which is why, btw, the Constrctor's a binder and not
a hitch -- doesn't work so stably with end loaded.)

To better align the trailing long end of the Constrictor
in this pull-down application, one could put in a "marl"
or Half-hitch to guard the binder. But, hey, if it's
doing the job as is ... , more power to you.

Of course, as Nick shows, there are misc. ways to skin
this cat. The Pile Hitch can be seen as a sort of minimal
Icicle Hitch (though in a quick play w/cord at hand, I find
it gripping better (resisting sliding) if one loads the end
leading into a HHitch-like turn than the parallel end which
leads up into a spiral (which is how the Icicle is loaded
(though arborists have used it in loading <u>both</u> ends)).
The Pile Hitch can be given and extra wrap before casting
the bight over the object-end, for some more grip.

What this application wants is both some friction gripping
but distinguishing itself from that --more importantly-- a
sure grip on the object-rope in resistance to <u>rubbing</u>
by contact with the tree (tightness w/o end tension, i.e.).

Nice video, btw,
thanks!

*kN*

ps: Here at Cape May, lots of topped cedars to deal
with (buidling muskuls wid bow saws :o) . Hoping some
will un-warp with warm (currently 50^F and very soggy).
 
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...What this application wants is both some friction gripping but distinguishing itself from that --more importantly-- a sure grip on the object-rope in resistance to <u>rubbing</u> by contact with the tree (tightness w/o end tension, i.e.).

Nice video, btw, thanks!

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Well put - precisely the point!

When the throwline is pulled up by the rope in a rope retrieval mode, as kN points out, the hitch/knot attaching the throwline has little tension on it which makes a loose hitch/knot that can be drug off the rope as it's pulled over the TIP. The constrictor knot is self-tensioning, or locking if you will, an remains tight with a firm grip even with no loading applied to it.

Thanks kN!!
 
I think there are one or two knots I will add to my quiver as a result of this discussion. And I will give the pile hitch a try next time I need to pull a stranger's rope up into a tree.

But most of us surely use the same handful of ropes over and over again, and most of them have a separate core. For those it is a matter of about 20 minutes work to create the rig shown in the photo. I make the loop out of small braided cord knotted with a bowline. The bowline is the knot of choice because it is small. Pull out about 4 inches of core and cut it off. Milk the core back to its original position leaving a 4-inch cavity. Push the loop knot first into the hollow as far as it will go. Whip the cover for an inch or two stopping just shy of the knot.

With this setup you can pull the rope with a throwline or even a much larger line without fear that anything can "rub off." You can pull a half-inch rope through a half-inch pulley with no problem. It never hangs up. You can easily pull up your chain saw clipped to the terminal loop. A simple sheet bend to the loop is the only attachment I have ever needed.

4433361610_1bc1baa7a7.jpg
 
Nice. Any chance of posting picture instructions on this process. I've been wanting to do this but haven't had a good idea how.
 
The only thing a picture could show would be the small loop formed with a bowline, but everyone knows how to do that. But here are a some tips.

1. Before you start, tie a knot in the rope 3 or 4 feet from the end. This will limit any disturbance to the rope to just that short section. Use neele-nose pliers to pull out about 4 inches of core to snip off.
2. After you form your loop with a bowline, cut the cord tails to about 1/2 inch. It may help to use some sewing thread to bind the tails and keep the knot from working loose.
3. Push the knot into the cavity with an awl or piece of coat hanger or the like.
4. The whipping is necessary to make the system work, but you can add tape, melt the ends of the rope strands, whatever, in addition.

The photo shows another use for the pull loop I forgot to mention. If you need to retrieve your ring-and-ring false crotch, the little retrieval ring, properly sized, never hangs up no matter how badly the FC rings are mashed against the trunk.

4487229055_7fe75eca52_b.jpg
 
I've done this to my SB rope to get into palm tree tops , the one thing that I did , I took a hot nail and made a small hole towards the end of my rope to feed a smaller line .. I'll try and post some pics..

Later in SO-CAL
 
Adding an end loop is a nice addition.

Tom Ness shared that a while ago. He pulls the core then adds cynoacyrlic/Super glue to the inside then adds a temp. whipping to choke the end a bit more.

When I've added Ness Loops I pull the core then melt the ends again. To reduce the mushroom from melting I will find a drill bit that is the right size and slip it inside. Then I take a couple of tight wraps with electrical tape to constrict the sheath. Hot cut the end and let it cool. I have a rope cutter so it's easy to roll the drill bit/rope and make a clean melt.
 
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