I am thinking about putting together a setup for footlocking using a two handed ascender. I have been footlocking the tail of my climbing rope and now there may be a time for a change. Are certain models that are more comfortable???
Two Handed Ascenders???
- Thread starter richhoffman
- Start date
- Location
- Watertown, WI
I use the Kong double handed, CMI has the expedition II ascender but that is only one ascender. it is wise to have a backup to your mechanical like a prussik attached to the top of the ascender. I love ascenders, they make work less strenious on the old beat up legs, but the issue I have is trusting my mechanicals. they may look good and function well but I always back them up.
- Location
- Upper Bucks ,PA
Iuse the Kong double as well. I see it as a multi-tasker! I can use it for single or double line...depends on my throwball skills that day!!! lol!!!
- Location
- Ontario, Canada
I use a climbing hitch with the Kong above backed up with a microcender.
The guy I work for has a Kong two handed ascender. He ties his VT w/micro pulley above it and backs it up with a Croll.
The setup I pretty well know. My concern was if any are more easy on the hands!!!
The setup I pretty well know. My concern was if any are more easy on the hands!!!
- Location
- Watertown, WI
Ddrt is a little rought at times on the pinkies, they can sometimes get a little rubbed up, if i do quick ascents, i use my pantin, distel, and double kong. I climb with the mouse ear pulley so i dont really have to worry about backing it up. the movement of one line past the other gets rough, but in a footlocking setup, i think they cannot be beat. they put your hands in a much stronger position.
- Location
- Ontario, Canada
I'm not footlocking but use a pantin and a loop off the Kong on the other foot so there isn't much strain involved in gripping the Kong.
Most of the force is applied to both legs with only a little effort on the Kong in taking the next step higher up the rope.
The large muscles in the legs are better suited for pushing than the smaller muscles in the hands and fingers for pulling all that weight up a rope.
Most of the force is applied to both legs with only a little effort on the Kong in taking the next step higher up the rope.
The large muscles in the legs are better suited for pushing than the smaller muscles in the hands and fingers for pulling all that weight up a rope.
- Location
- Bloomington, Indiana
Kevin wrote:
[ QUOTE ]
I use a climbing hitch with the Kong above backed up with a microcender.
[/ QUOTE ]
...and richhoffman wrote:
[ QUOTE ]
The guy I work for has a Kong two handed ascender. He ties his VT w/micro pulley above it and backs it up with a Croll.
[/ QUOTE ]
Can you guys provide photos? It sounds like these systems have a friction hitch plus an ascender plus another ascender. Why?
Is this when you are climbing DdRT and are footlocking the tail?
[ QUOTE ]
I use a climbing hitch with the Kong above backed up with a microcender.
[/ QUOTE ]
...and richhoffman wrote:
[ QUOTE ]
The guy I work for has a Kong two handed ascender. He ties his VT w/micro pulley above it and backs it up with a Croll.
[/ QUOTE ]
Can you guys provide photos? It sounds like these systems have a friction hitch plus an ascender plus another ascender. Why?
Is this when you are climbing DdRT and are footlocking the tail?
- Location
- Ontario, Canada
The microcender is a back up for the Kong in case of mechanical failure.
I'm concerned if the Kong fails it could slam down on the climbing hitch sending me in the wrong direction at a high rate of speed.
The climbing hitch is there in case I need to bail out in a hurry and leave the ascender on the rope.
Usually just used for climbing a single rope in my case.
I'm concerned if the Kong fails it could slam down on the climbing hitch sending me in the wrong direction at a high rate of speed.
The climbing hitch is there in case I need to bail out in a hurry and leave the ascender on the rope.
Usually just used for climbing a single rope in my case.
- Location
- Bloomington, Indiana
[ QUOTE ]
The climbing hitch is there in case I need to bail out in a hurry and leave the ascender on the rope.
[/ QUOTE ]
What hitch do you use? Those that I have tried on SRT just bind up on descent unless some of the friction is taken up with a descender or my feet.
The climbing hitch is there in case I need to bail out in a hurry and leave the ascender on the rope.
[/ QUOTE ]
What hitch do you use? Those that I have tried on SRT just bind up on descent unless some of the friction is taken up with a descender or my feet.
- Location
- Watertown, WI
if you can use a thicker hitch cord i found it works wonders. something like a 24' eye to eye technora or tenex. I just got some ice in from sherrill so im gonna get that all eyed up strictly for the purpose of a thicker back for my kong.
- Location
- Watertown, WI
What hitch do you use? Those that I have tried on SRT just bind up on descent unless some of the friction is taken up with a descender or my feet.
[/ QUOTE ]
I use 8mm beeline in a nice compact 'lil distel. I believe what you are talking about is the hitch binding up in the micro?
In that case I usually just deal with it and as I ascend I just make sure the top bend on the hitch doesn't slide down or around. As you descend, this bend would cause much more friction.
Another good tip I learned from a buddy of mine, once you get into the tree, lanyard off, and re-dress and set your hitch, this usually straightens any issue out before I start swingin'.
[/ QUOTE ]
I use 8mm beeline in a nice compact 'lil distel. I believe what you are talking about is the hitch binding up in the micro?
In that case I usually just deal with it and as I ascend I just make sure the top bend on the hitch doesn't slide down or around. As you descend, this bend would cause much more friction.
Another good tip I learned from a buddy of mine, once you get into the tree, lanyard off, and re-dress and set your hitch, this usually straightens any issue out before I start swingin'.
- Location
- Ontario, Canada
If I'm having problems I'll reconfigure the hitch maybe go from 4/2 Distel to 4/1.
- Location
- Bloomington, Indiana
[ QUOTE ]
if you can use a thicker hitch cord i found it works wonders. something like a 24' eye to eye technora or tenex. I just got some ice in from sherrill so im gonna get that all eyed up strictly for the purpose of a thicker back for my kong.
[/ QUOTE ]
Thicker? Than what? Tenex, Technora, and Ice are all 8mm. If the cord is spliced so that the buries overlap then the cord does appear slightly bigger, but what is really happening is that the cord doesn't compress as much under tension.
[ QUOTE ]
I believe what you are talking about is the hitch binding up in the micro?
[/ QUOTE ]
No, the micro pulley doesn't cause any problem at all. Also, when I ascend with a hitch as a backup and then use that same hitch for climbing the tree, there is no need to re-dress and set the hitch. The hitch should work fluidly from one mode to the next without the need to adjust anything.
Rookie and Kevin;
Have you actually tried to descend any distance at a fairly fast clip (Kevin used the term '...bail out...') with a friction hitch on a single line? When I have tried this the hitch binds up unless some of the friction is taken up with a descender or my feet.
if you can use a thicker hitch cord i found it works wonders. something like a 24' eye to eye technora or tenex. I just got some ice in from sherrill so im gonna get that all eyed up strictly for the purpose of a thicker back for my kong.
[/ QUOTE ]
Thicker? Than what? Tenex, Technora, and Ice are all 8mm. If the cord is spliced so that the buries overlap then the cord does appear slightly bigger, but what is really happening is that the cord doesn't compress as much under tension.
[ QUOTE ]
I believe what you are talking about is the hitch binding up in the micro?
[/ QUOTE ]
No, the micro pulley doesn't cause any problem at all. Also, when I ascend with a hitch as a backup and then use that same hitch for climbing the tree, there is no need to re-dress and set the hitch. The hitch should work fluidly from one mode to the next without the need to adjust anything.
Rookie and Kevin;
Have you actually tried to descend any distance at a fairly fast clip (Kevin used the term '...bail out...') with a friction hitch on a single line? When I have tried this the hitch binds up unless some of the friction is taken up with a descender or my feet.
- Location
- Ontario, Canada
I used the term bail out to indicate dropping out of the tree in a hurry as if you were to run into a bees nest, feel faint or another emergency.
I can descend fairly quickly or at least more fluid on a 4/1 but at 53 years of age I tend to take my time.
I'm happy to reach the ground intact.
I dropped out of a tree once on a spliced eye 10mm tenex cord and kept going without slowing.
My hand got too hot trying to slow the fall by holding the rope and I had to let go and wait to pile up on the ground.
The hitch grabbed about five feet off the ground and saved the day.
Now I'm quite content to drop out at a slower pace.
I can descend fairly quickly or at least more fluid on a 4/1 but at 53 years of age I tend to take my time.
I'm happy to reach the ground intact.
I dropped out of a tree once on a spliced eye 10mm tenex cord and kept going without slowing.
My hand got too hot trying to slow the fall by holding the rope and I had to let go and wait to pile up on the ground.
The hitch grabbed about five feet off the ground and saved the day.
Now I'm quite content to drop out at a slower pace.
The VT is tied above the two handed ascender to add a backup and relieve the climber from having to tie it up in the tree. That may sound a bit stupid but every little bit counts!!!
- Location
- Ontario, Canada
If it's tied above the ascender then it's too long for me.
If it's tied above, dressed but isn't set then there might be a question of safety.
I keep all that gear above so I can dump it there in a second and leave it on the rope above and out of my way on a quick descent.
That's why I use my standard climbing hitch below the ascender.
If it's tied above, dressed but isn't set then there might be a question of safety.
I keep all that gear above so I can dump it there in a second and leave it on the rope above and out of my way on a quick descent.
That's why I use my standard climbing hitch below the ascender.
- Location
- Bloomington, Indiana
Kevin;
I understood what you meant by 'bail out'. I'm just surprised that the hitch doesn't bind up on you.
richhoffman wrote:
[ QUOTE ]
The VT is tied above the two handed ascender to add a backup and relieve the climber from having to tie it up in the tree. That may sound a bit stupid but every little bit counts!!!
[/ QUOTE ]
Sounds like the Vt is backing up a backup. With the Kongs, the Croll, and the Vt you have three means of attachment. I just wondered what the thought process was behind all this.
I understood what you meant by 'bail out'. I'm just surprised that the hitch doesn't bind up on you.
richhoffman wrote:
[ QUOTE ]
The VT is tied above the two handed ascender to add a backup and relieve the climber from having to tie it up in the tree. That may sound a bit stupid but every little bit counts!!!
[/ QUOTE ]
Sounds like the Vt is backing up a backup. With the Kongs, the Croll, and the Vt you have three means of attachment. I just wondered what the thought process was behind all this.
- Location
- Ontario, Canada
- Location
- Bloomington, Indiana
Thanks kevin.
So the ascender is used for the ascent, the hitch is there so that you can descend quickly if needed, and the Croll is to back up the ascender (so if the ascender fails it doesn't crash down onto the hitch).
So the ascender is used for the ascent, the hitch is there so that you can descend quickly if needed, and the Croll is to back up the ascender (so if the ascender fails it doesn't crash down onto the hitch).
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