Tree motion mods-twin bridges and suspenders

oceans said:
Yup. That, and the stopper knot side can't rotate either. Have you tried a normal bridge and another tried as scaffolds right into the lower D's?
Click to expand...
This is what I've been using, works fine, I have maxim 5 mm tech chord as a redundancy on my primary bridge also, even with all this cordage and scaffold knots the lower ds are still usable for lanyard clip in.
OP I think is ok, the core is poly, has some hi mod stuff (dyneema? Kevlar?) In the cover though so not totally sure.

Can anyone suggest a reason that htp 10 is not suitable for a bridge? It was suggested as such in a previous thread without confirmation
Thanks!
 
oceans said:
Yup. That, and the stopper knot side can't rotate either. Have you tried a normal bridge and another tried as scaffolds right into the lower D's?
Click to expand...
not on this saddle but I climbed with the bridge tied to the rings on my puma. I have no issues with that I just came across the new cougar saddle and saw the bridge so I was just thinking out loud on here and throwing an idea out there
 
if I had to guess I think with the htp its more about the parallel fibers in the core and the bend radius on the ring. I think a braided core would be preferred but then again the Buckingham replacmenet bridge looks like km max and I haven't heard anything bad about those bridges. I just ordered a piece of cougar orange so ill see how that fits in there but the cougar blue seems small enough that makes me think it should
 
was thinking of the Tree Motion but with out a Bosun Swing Seat forget it! I would consider it with suspenders and the seat, then you have a Saddle for my liking! until then it's Sequoia SRT baby! with the seat and the top chest harness. SWEET!
 
In another post Kevin Bingham mentioned using 16 strand jacket dependant rope with the core removed as a bridge. It sounds interesting but does that mean I can take the core out of my Blue Streak and use it as a bridge?
 
treegongfu said:
In another post Kevin Bingham mentioned using 16 strand jacket dependent rope with the core removed as a bridge. It sounds interesting but does that mean I can take the core out of my Blue Streak and use it as a bridge?
Click to expand...
I don't understand why you would remove the core. I have an Onyx with an adjustable rope bridge made out of New England Hi Vee 16 strand, with the core intact. It works fine with the roll n lock I'm using for the bridge adjuster.
 
treegongfu said:
In another post Kevin Bingham mentioned using 16 strand jacket dependant rope with the core removed as a bridge. It sounds interesting but does that mean I can take the core out of my Blue Streak and use it as a bridge?
Click to expand...
The cover of a 16 strand is the only load bearing part of its construction, the core keeps it round. The benefit of it not having the core would be it would behave more like a webbing bridge (flat) than a rope bridge and in theory reduce the wear on a bridge mounted swivel.
 
I finally built custom suspenders for the TM. They aren't quite done, but the major part is. I'll post pics here tonight......just don't laugh too hard at my less than professional looking stitches. I have a new respect for those who can make professional looking stitches with a speedy stitcher.
 
Welp, here ya go. Going to make a few more improvments, but this is more or less the gist.

9480b006a964434e6f89a6d7a8d1b4df.jpg


9d989ac6525820e1d68f83e6f5a42416.jpg
 
Three tending points, padded shoulders, adjustable for winter clothing (or natural winter padding in my case). Holds things together real well. Makes it easier to get into the saddle too. Step through, put on one shoulder at a time, clip in the front, the waist, then the legs. No muss, no fuss.

Future plans for them include putting a few 1/2" webbing loops on either side the chest for clipping in biners. Figure it may be easier to temporarily store rigging stuff sent up on accessory biners on the suspenders than on the saddle sometimes. Going to make a custom OTS bungee for a non haas kneescender.....and splicing to do.....and 500,000 things around the house......no rest, no rest.
 
If you go with the same snap (great option), you need one side to be adjustable, one side to be fixed. Sew the fixed side to the shoulder strap, then you can adjust the tending points back and forth to get them centered regardless of how long you need the middle to be. Make sense?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

New threads New posts

Back
Top Bottom