Top cuts for removal???

[SingleJack]

There's always some minor controversy about which cuts to use when topping for a removal - ranging from: open face; to conventional (45); to narrow; to Humbolt; ... kerfs; etc. I've been taught to pick cuts that minimize shock and side thrust to the stem.

So: What is the <u>current</u> (or new) wisdom about the safest top cuts for a removal?

 

[JeffL]

Depends on the situation, whether I can free fall it, or doesnt matter if it lays flat, if it NEEDS to land flat, if its gotta be on a rope, can it run, can it not run, does it have an obstacle to miss, etc.

Generally I'll go a bit narrower than 45*, and always mismatching the backcut to prevent the butt from coming off the back of the stem. I generally try to cut from the side if possible.

 

[Toparboring]

for putting it on a dime Humbolt with 45 or less degrees, and for free fall open face if it is a big top over 20" radius(previous topped trees)
Bigger question is what is the top gut that you do, I mean how high up the tree do you do your cut?

 

[Norm_Hall]

It depends on alot of factors: dead or alive, angle the limb is growing at, species. Are you letting it fly or lowering? Where's the lowering anchor at in relation to your cut. The most important factor is your safety. I use many different notches and backcuts, depending on the situation.

 

[SingleJack]

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Depends on the situation,
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a bit narrower than 45 ...

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[ QUOTE ]
for putting it on a dime Humbolt with 45 or less degrees, and for free fall open face if it is a big top over 20" radius(previous topped trees)
Bigger question is ... how high up the tree do you do your cut?

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Yeah, it does depend on the situation; up or down, less than 45 (sometimes a lot less). How high depends on the surroundings and the condition of the tree - as high as necessary (and safe) to clear obstructions. Dropping small pieces sometimes takes less time than cleaning up big messes.

Recently, I read about the “open face” topping cut in another thread. I like the open face notch on the ground but can’t remember if I’ve ever used it up top. I was taught the open face notch keeps the hinge in-tact longer to better control the fall of the stem. And, I was taught, a “small” notch topping cut snaps the hinge, at just the right time, to release the load on the stem so there is less shock and sway. I think I've missed learning some good topping techniques.

So, THE big question that started this thread is; when to use an “open face” topping cut? AND, what other topping cut tips ‘n tricks you got. I wanna learn ‘em all.

Thanks in advance!

 

[JeffL]

If I have a remote rigging point, I'll usually go more open face, I want the hinge to break and have the piece come off about the time its laying out flat, best I can figure, it helps to smooth out the "pendulum" motion of the swing, along with the fact I'll notch it AWAY from the rigging point, so I'm swinging the load into the rigging, as opposed to dropping it into it and increasing the shock load. If I can get away with it I'll use it where I can, in trees that cant be dropped, but dont need to be rigged down in any particular, like multi-stemmed oaks or pines where you can save a bunch of time by not having to set multiple rigging points, or having to move it at all.

If again, its a tree that cant be dropped, but doesnt need to be rigged down either, I'll generally go with narrower notches to try and flat drop BRUSHY pieces, since we're getting specific. Like I chunked down a few big pines this weekend, and I'd go narrow on the tops and flat fall them, and then with the wood, I'd go open face. Reason being, I wasnt using a pull line, and alot of times its tough to get enough momentum to snap the hinge on pieces with a narrow notch. I go wide so the piece will go far enough over center to break the hinge, and I'll give it a little flip of the hand as needed to get the right rotation to get it landing as flat as possible.

That help any?

 

[Norm_Hall]

It's better done with an arborist that has that type of topping under their belt. Work side by side. Is there any one in your area that you feel comfortable working with?
The notch opening plays a huge role in most removals. How the branch is structured determines the type of notch to use. When you want the branch to break, also determines the notch. A good climbing arborist uses many types of cuts in each tree. It's good to know what they can do and how to properly cut them.

 

[Gord]

I like to think our knowledge of different cuts as a toolbox full of tools. For every situation there's an appropriate cut, and knowing which to use will make you an efficient tree person.

For each cut, think of what you want the piece to do. Do you want it to hold on for a long sideways swing to clear that roof, or snap off quickly so you can turn the direction of the limb to help out your groundspeople?

The second thing is, what you can make the piece do. Is it a species like English Oak that has known strength and tenacity? Or it a brittle species like cottonwood? It is a dead tree, or is the wood possibly frozen? Is the top considerably bushier and heavier than what is common for the species you're working with? Does the species barberchair easily?

Then you have to choose your cut with these variables in mind.

Practice and experiment with different cuts on those removals where you've got lots of room to work with.


I rarely use an open face notch while topping a tree, as it often makes the top land head first if you're letting it fly and offers no advantage for rigging situations either. Maybe one circumstance I do use it is if it's a priority to keep the brush close to the base of the tree.

For taking larger tops, it's often a good idea to bore your backcut and then finish the strap with a handsaw. It allows you to place your chainsaw down before the top falls and use a wedge if it's needed.

The first 2 minutes or so of this video show what I mean.

 

[Blinky]

I agree with what Gord says... for generally pitching live excurrent tops I go about 45 degrees maybe a bit less. It really depends on what I need the wood to do.

 

[Jamin_Mayer]

Yep. It's been communicated well above. It depends for me as well.

If I could say what I like to do (not limit myself to doing 100% of the time) is putting a narrow face notch in, make scarf cuts and sending a top out so that it flys and lands parallel with the ground.

But, here is a 54 second video showing how to plant a tree with a tree top. (during a removal).

I think this was calibrated well...