Timberline chainsaw sharpener

I just saw this yetsterday as well, it is pretty. I wonder though how well it would work for anything other than just a touch up. My first thought was wow, the accuracy of a bench grinder but portable and without the heat. I would be interesed in trying one. But even then my hand file doesnt take all that long either (especially just a touch up). interesting.
 
Has anyone actually used one of these? I handfile at the moment but I am considering one of these or just buying a grinder. I just hate the thoughts of pulling the chain off just to sharp it with a grinder on the bench.
 
The Timberline will handle a rocked chain, if it's not too bad. The problem is, you've got to find the the cutter with the most damage and count the turns you make to get it back right, again. Then, take that same amount off of all of the other cutters. If you come across another cutter that turns out to be worse than the one you started with, you have to count the turns you took above the previous number of turns and take that many off all of the other cutters, too. They have to end up the same height, length and angle or the saw won't cut straight in the wood.

A better way is to use it for touching up chains that are starting to spit dust, so that you don't have to do so much work with it. Keep extra, sharp chains with you for each saw and just replace them as they get dull or rocked. Take the dull ones home with you and sharpen them on the bench grinder or file them with a bar mounted jig. I keep at least 2 spare, sharp chains with me for each saw that I take. If I'm going out of town, I take 3 or 4 for each saw. It's much faster to change the chain than it is to sharpen it, I don't care what you use.
 
Equal length cutting teeth don't have anything to do with a straight cut.

The amount of wood shaved off be a right/left cutter combination is what does. This is controlled by the depth gauge/raker.

The Pferd sharpening systems sharpen the cutting edge and lower the depth gauge to the proper clearance.
 
a mate bought one lat year out of interest after seeing the youtube video ,
would be useful out in the field if you only had one chain and hit metal / rock then needed to reset all the teeth back but it is the same response as Jeffgu , the time and effort spent is only really justified if you are away from a bench grinder and I also just carry spare chains in mutiples and swap out in the field then re-sharpen back at home on the bench.
something I am about to do right now in fact :D

Treezybreez said:
Wow! now that is almost as pretty as a DMM block.
Click to expand...
but yes it is a very well machined piece of kit and shiny , beware the lure of the shine - "all that glitters is not gold".
 
Tom Dunlap said:
Equal length cutting teeth don't have anything to do with a straight cut.
Click to expand...

Well, both the height and length are affected by sharpening, so I included it in the list. This device doesn't grind/file the rakers. If you're not filing the rakers in the field, and the cutter height varies, the saw will wander in the cut, or pull to one direction or the other (especially if you are getting all of the left cutters a different height than the right cutters, which is common with this device if you don't spend the time to get it leveled). To see if cutter length affects the cut path, it would be a simple matter to cut all of the left cutters shorter than the right ones, and file the top cutter face to the same height as the right ones. With more drag on one side than the other, I'm betting it would, but I don't have any chains right now that I'm willing to butcher to find out. I already know the results of cutting all of the cutter angles on one side differently than the other.
 
I use one because it works really well at taking off a lot of material quickly ie rocked out chain. Then fine file it with the Stihl equivalent of pferd that TD mentioned. It is nice tool and is fairly easy to use and the carbide cutter seems to last longer than easily 5 or more files. I don't own a grinder and haven't found it necessary to buy one with this. I prefer hand filing it's just this makes the work of rocked out chains much easier mb reduces the effort by approx 50 to 65% mb a bit more probably a bit more. It pulls off slivers of metal watch yourself. I would guess most hand filers won't like it at 1st but when you need it for a rocked out chain you will then greatly appreciate it.
 
I don't waste much time on cutter height. Get a nice chisel point by eye and move on than drop depth Guage. I will thou slap on brand new(ish) chain for crucial cuts especially if aerial
 
Can you efficiently get by in this field without being able to quickly hand sharpen?

My take on it is that if you only change the chain to get a sharp chain, you run a not-sharp chain for too long.

1-2 stokes every tank will do a lot. I don't sharpen every tank, but if I do, its fast enough for me.

A bench or mobile grinder is useful for rocked chains, rather than using up a file and time.
 
A quick touch up every tank or two is just a given, thats fast enough. It's really when it rocks or hit a nail or some other crap left deep in the truck that I am thinking about.
 
Got one today, thanks for quick shipping TS. First time use went well, a little longer than I would have liked but it was the first time using it. It sure is a well built piece of gear. DMM or Rock would be proud.
 
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