Stihl MS201-TCM issues and fix. Can use some help. Thx.

E

erwin

Participating member
Location
st. louis
After over 20 years of tree work, I’m gradually redirectioning and partially retiring. I’m turning 63 now and can’t imagine ever to completely stop climbing until health conditions prohibit that.

For the past 5 years or so I rarely take on large removals. Pruning and occasional small to medium removal for established Cleint base became sufficient for what I need. And, two 2511 and two 372xp are sufficient.

As a result, I don’t remember when the last time my MS660 and MS201 got used. I do occasionally fire them up. I probably should just get rid of them but I can’t see myself doing that.

The 201 has been a very sweet saw for my early years, fully opened up and timing advanced from the start. I really want to repair and restore it and just keep it for occasional use or just for memory. I took it apart as much as I feel comfortable today to clean it and also to find its serial number, but without any success. So I can’t b sure if it’s version 1,2 or 3. I doubt it’s 3.

It fires up, idles and runs like new till like 5 mins late. Then it won’t stay idle and lacks rpm and power. After reading on the net I learned that earlier versions all have the instability problem after a while. The best thing to do it’s to upgrade it to version 3 cool and solenoids.

Looked all over the net and wasn’t able to find a kit or something. Also if possible the I’ll keep trying to find its serial number to confirm and make sure what I’ll do to it will work well.

Any of you ever done such upgrades and give me some links and pointers? Thx in advance. Erwin
 
Sounds to me like one of two problems, either a clogged tank vent or a failing coil. Open the fuel cap after it starts acting up, see if that fixes the problem. If not, it's probably a coil or the carburetor needs recalibrated. Both of those are best done by the dealer.
 
Just tried to do the calibration before being it to the shop.

Warmed up for a min. Engage the chain brake. Put the main clutch nitrile lever to M. It won’t start at all. Tried a few times, same results. It will start n run on position 1
 
erwin said:
Just tried to do the calibration before being it to the shop.

Warmed up for a min. Engage the chain brake. Put the main clutch nitrile lever to M. It won’t start at all. Tried a few times, same results. It will start n run on position 1
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I'm not sure what you mean by "position M" and "position 1" can you explain a bit further, or post a picture showing what those positions are?
 
erwin said:
My fault, it’s the upper arrow mark.
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Thank you for the pictures. The arrow is the start position, that is where you set the switch when you are starting the engine cold. If the engine is hot, you run the risk of flooding it. That's probably why it wouldn't start when it was in that position.

The "I" position is the normal run position, that is the position the switch defaults to, and when the engine is warm it starts from that position as well.

The fact that you started the saw and ran it for a minute before you tried to restart it at the arrow position tells me you were probably flooding it trying to start it from the arrow position.
 
The calibration instruction on page 22 states: after warming up the engine for a min, restart it with the control lever set at the upward arrow position and let it run the sequence for 30-60 seconds . AND, it won’t start.
 

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erwin said:
The calibration instruction on page 22 states: after warming up the engine for a min, restart it with the control lever set at the upward arrow position and let it run the sequence for 30-60 seconds . AND, it won’t start.
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I see. That's interesting. Sounds to me like that saw needs a trip to the dealership.
 
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