SRS to MRS in the tree

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NailerB

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illinois
I'm a novice asking a question. Why use SRS to ascend to the top then change over to MRS(did you notice I used the new acronyms, cause I want to be PC) once you start to take the tree down? Just trying to understand.
 
As another novice, I want to toss my guess in the pool before the the knowledgeable chime in. I’m thinking based on what Ive experimented with in making that switch a couple times just for fun that making smaller movements back up the rope and down the rope go smoother due to the 2:1 ratio. I’m not rec climbing in spurs so the ascent with a foot lock on mrs is a tad easier than popping the foot ascender in srs.

On a side note nailer, are you loving your new mb saddle? I love mine, but my experience is quite limited to only it.....


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I like working certain trees Ddrt. I love my sj3 and a 2:1 advantage helps in a lot of situations with bad rope angles, long limb walks, and clean rope angles from the tie in. That being said I hate ascending double rope so I'll use my spiderjack for a weight, canopy anchor with a RB then switch to doubled.
 
For me, it's really all about that mechanical advantage... but it works for you in a couple of ways. The obvious one is that as you get older, it helps with that return from a limb walk, repositioning against the flow of gravity (which increases as you get older), etc.

There's another one... imagine you've got an Akimbo on an SRT line and a ZigZag on a DdRT line. If you just blip the lever quickly on both, the devices will move a certain distance. Let's just say it's a foot for both. The difference is that YOU move a foot on the SRT line... but only six inches on the DdRT line. That makes fine position adjustments easier, especially if you're in a rather precarious position where you want to move less than a foot or you'll have to pull all of your weight back up and try it again. Like when you're working at angles that put you nearly parallel to the ground, under a branch.
 
JeffGu said:
For me, it's really all about that mechanical advantage... but it works for you in a couple of ways. The obvious one is that as you get older, it helps with that return from a limb walk, repositioning against the flow of gravity (which increases as you get older), etc.

There's another one... imagine you've got an Akimbo on an SRT line and a ZigZag on a DdRT line. If you just blip the lever quickly on both, the devices will move a certain distance. Let's just say it's a foot for both. The difference is that YOU move a foot on the SRT line... but only six inches on the DdRT line. That makes fine position adjustments easier, especially if you're in a rather precarious position where you want to move less than a foot or you'll have to pull all of your weight back up and try it again. Like when you're working at angles that put you nearly parallel to the ground, under a branch.
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Or just use a 3:1 in your srs line.
 
Another factor is rope vectors (in this scenario base tie vs isolated TIP).

On many trees I use the Srt method to ascend as it is sometimes easier to setup than an isolated TIP for a ddrt system, then change to a ddrt(MRS) system to work the tree.

However on the odd tree especially leaning trees, weak species, or previously topped trees the isolated weight causes severe bending of the tree in location of the TIP. When on the ground can heavily weight the TIP to test it (two person weight check) but in the tree this can sometimes be impractical, when switching from SRS(SRT) to MRS.

On recent case I had the SRT system in a week species base tie tested okay, then once at TIP I switched only to have tree top lean right over and make strain noises, myself expecting a snapping sound any moment.

Immediately went back to the SRS(SRT) system, and the top leaned back some and was happy with system to work (having said that put in another secondary TIP before going to work).

Same issues one would see regularly with rigging vectors.
 
NailerB said:
I'm a novice asking a question. Why use SRS to ascend to the top then change over to MRS(did you notice I used the new acronyms, cause I want to be PC) once you start to take the tree down? Just trying to understand.
Click to expand...
. What’s faster 60 foot of spiking or sixty foot of rope walking
 
Jem4417 said:
. What’s faster 60 foot of spiking or sixty foot of rope walking
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I personally only like to ropewalk a removal when there is no work to be done on the way up, which is rare for me. I may have an srt setup (not usually), but I will still spike up and limb what I can without rigging on my way to set a friction saver. If I’m climbing from an adjacent tree, it’s almost always srt.
 
Nickstulz said:
As another novice, I want to toss my guess in the pool before the the knowledgeable chime in. I’m thinking based on what Ive experimented with in making that switch a couple times just for fun that making smaller movements back up the rope and down the rope go smoother due to the 2:1 ratio. I’m not rec climbing in spurs so the ascent with a foot lock on mrs is a tad easier than popping the foot ascender in srs.

On a side note nailer, are you loving your new mb saddle? I love mine, but my experience is quite limited to only it.....


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Sorry to say the weather has not let me get a climb in yet. So far hanging in the shed with it I really like the way it feels, definately no bag pinch. I just set up the adjustable bridge and that makes it super easy to get it on and buckled up, easy to adjust if having to add or delete clothes due to temps. That little Roll N Lock ziptied to the rigging plate works smooth as silk, the only down side is there isn't much to grab to let rope out.
 
It’s sunny and 30 here today. My weather up here in the mitten has definitely been nicer this winter than down in any of those I states. Been kinda windy, cloudy and wet down there this winter. I almost bought a length of bridge rope and ct roll lock the other day from treestuff but took my finger from the trigger in the last seconds of that decision.


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From a rec climbing perspective, I like switching over from SRS to MRS when I reach my TIP. This means I can get more life and less wear and tear out of my multicending device, while enjoying a more controlled descent on MRS, while benefiting at the same time by using a more efficient SRS setup on ascent. Descent in an MRS setup puts far less friction on the descending device while sharing the load with the moving rope as it passes over the limb, by way of a friction saver.
 
I also rarely use rope ascent on removals. I mainly hate putting on spikes in the tree and also hated having an ascender bolted onto the shank.
I think arborist climbing styles really tend to focus on the target and are end-goal driven. Sure, you can go straight to your TIP that u set from the ground, maybe to set up some rigging and change your anchor (MRS can be retrieved at anytime from anywhere with minimal technique or gear involved), but chances are you are going to be cutting from your spikes and lanyard at some point.
 
I just watched a vid of some cat in NZ taking down a big oak with a crane. Now I can see where the ease of getting your rope back from the crane or the TIP multiple times makes a lot of sense. I reckon not all cat's get skinned the same way!
 
NailerB said:
I'm a novice asking a question. Why use SRS to ascend to the top then change over to MRS(did you notice I used the new acronyms, cause I want to be PC) once you start to take the tree down? Just trying to understand.
Click to expand...

In my opinion, there isn't a good reason except for minimizing forces on your anchor point. Since I switched to SRT 8 years ago, the only reason to climb ddrt is for crane work. Btw, i am a big fan of the unicender.

SRT is awesome for removals, once you get to the top have your ground guy untie your base anchor. Then tie off to the stem, and bring your anchor point down with you.
 
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