Spruce Removal

Nice work man!! Lookin good.

Only thing I noticed, and someone will correct me if I'm wrong, but on your snap cuts, after you made the initial cut, your second cut was above the initial, cutting into the piece that would drop. I would advise placing your second cut slightly below your first cut, because it would prevent a saw snatcher scenario from occurring. The way you did it creates a kerf in the falling piece that could snatch the saw if it were to break away before your were ready. But again, could be wrong and someone will correct me here.

Other than that, nice work bro! Congrats on winning the saw!
 
Cool guys thanks for the point. I just never thought of it because I leave enough in the bypass cut so that it doesn't fall early but I suppose it can.
 
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loosen the chain some, sounded a bit tight

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Yea I noticed that as well. Checked the chain after and it was ok. After running it more that sound went away...maybe the whole breaking in the saw or something. It is a brand new saw.
 
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I would watch it, but its not allowed to be viewed by an iPad. Aaagghhh!

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I wonder if that is a setting on my side...what was the message you got?
 
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I would watch it, but its not allowed to be viewed by an iPad. Aaagghhh!

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I wonder if that is a setting on my side...what was the message you got?

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I couldn't watch it on my phone. It said user disabled mobile viewing. So I watched it on my work laptop.
One note- early in the video, you half cut a limb with the chainsaw, then finish with your handsaw. The way you put your arm under the path of the handsaw is something that looked potentially unsafe. Maybe it was the camera angle, but I always treat a handsaw with as much respect as a chainsaw.
Congratulations again on your win Casey.

SZ
 
That is surely the quietest saw I ever heard. Good luck with it. Nice job. Careful with that hand saw, eg. 40 sec. mark. It's those tiny branches that get me all the time too. I try to saw upward on those babies.
 
Very nice controlled work Casey. And kudos on winning a 200T!

Spruce removal is probably the most common one I do. Our spruce are really dense and branchy though. Not much space between whorls.

I slashed my wrist badly doing what you did on my first spruce removal finishing with a handsaw cut where I had to cut and chuck. I finished the tree anyway, but learned my lesson on that one!

I find if I give the butt of a section coming down a shove when it goes over it will usually go down flat and not gouge the lawn. I think most of yours were pretty flat too.
 
Those snap cuts will "hinge" with the cut, providing you fully bypassed the cuts. If a few fibers remain it will pull to the remaining strands. Try a straight backcut and make your bypass in the direction you want the piece to go. Should push right over without having g to deal with the awkward wiggle and push. Or just use a very small, shallow notch, but then you start running into saw pinch. I love the snap cut. <3 Try a narrower notch on that top and shove the butt off like Nora said. Flat fall that sucker! My heart always skips a beat when pieces do, or almost pole vault. Nice saw, get it dirty!
 
Spruce is about all we do, when I get to chainsaw the branches like you were I usually climb through the branches handsawing a path on the easy side to the top and install an AFS, then return to the low branch and start up again with the chainsaw. It seems to end up being both faster and less effort = safer and easier to groove to the reggae beat.

As mentioned branch nests and an extra touch leave no divots but I've always enjoyed a good divot. Love it when they stick straight in so deep no one can pull em out.
 
I think it's a little ironic that you are showing off your new saw using 'Pawnshop' for a soundtrack! :)

As to the bypass cuts, I have always done cut #1 as if it were a skinny face cut, and cut #2 as the back cut, at least when handling upright pieces. My only critique with that is that you didn't use the cuts directionally. The over-tight chain was obvious, too, but all went well. Better than too loose! Nice job.

-Tom
 
On a side note of landing them flat... If the ground isn't flat or has some imperfection flat pieces tend to go a bit funny. Last week I had a chunk of silver go a bit funny and grazed a shed, wasn't funny at all. No divots though :D
 
Casey,
Congrats and enjoy the new saw! When you finish a cut with the hand saw try not to cut crossing over your arm...I found out those hand saws leave a nasty mark on your arm. Nice vid quality too, what camera are you using?
Scrat
 
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nice tunes and great safe work practices!

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Thanks to you all. I think I remember a setting to allow the video to be viewed on a phone. I will see if I can get that back.

As for the one cross over handsaw cut if you notice I end up grabbing a side branch off the branch I was cutting making it not as bad as it looked. I do know where all you are coming from because I have had some good bleeders from handsaw punctures.

@Tom
Yea I was thinking the same thing when it came to song selection. Part of the irony I put into the video because that saw is going no where.

@scrat
The helmet cam is the Drift HD 170. And I was shooting in SD. The quality surprised me as well. The camera is tough too because the next video I will be posting soon most of the removal footage was corupt because the camera got wedged in a branch above, popped off and hit the ground with both the sd card and battery flying out. Worked though when it was put back together and sent back up.

Back too the by pass discussion. I have tried many different ways of blocking down on smaller stems. Some of which were demonstated to me but I will not do (one handing and such). The front and back by pass cut I have done just can't get the grove of that. For larger diameter stems I would use the technique of a wedge on a string and cut straight through from the back, placing the wedge in the back and cut through all the way to front having the piece rest on itself. Then push it right off.
 
Casey,
Thanks for putting up videos. It is a pretty awesome thing to do for other climbers. Now, I am as guilty as the next person, especially with a top handled saw, but try and shift your left hand to the top of the handle when making cuts...especially vertical cuts on branches using the tip of your bar. Your upper body is very exposed to kickback (as far as I can tell from the helmet cam).
I took a saw to the shoulder a few years back and it woke me up quick. These saws are small and it is difficult to get your left hand into position to protect yourself all the time, but work positioning is critical!
I am 26, and speak as a youngster in the field, but if us young bucks want to be old grizzles in the one of the most hazardous and awesome industries out there then we need to use proper work positioning whenever possible.
Plus, it seems like it would be hard to impress girls with tree knowledge if you had a huge chainsaw scar down your grill.
 
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