splicing

S

Sawdust

Location
Bucks Co. P.A.
Before being able to login to this site, I have read alot of replies. Most are of new ideas and making your own "toys". Which involve splicing.

I splice my own ropes (thanks to riggsy). So I'm pretty well aware what goes on with my ropes and splices. Now, out of all that discussion I did not see anyone mention the bend ratio in the EYE it self. Is that a consideration? Some older eyes I made had some good wear and tear on the inside there.
Enough to cut it off. The ones i do now, I dive some core back in the eye area.

I have also seen splices from some companies that I wouldnt climb on. So why are those "better" than mine, because "they" have a tag on theres. And all the ones I have purchased had no crossovers. Does the crossover seem like a much better way?

I have questions, Hope some one has answers. Not too many people I talk to have solutions.
Thanks for the ear.
Later
 
The advantage of not having a core or crossover in the splice (as in 16 strand) is that the loop flattens out like webbing.
The strength loss in a bend radius comes from the ratio of diameter of the inside of the rope to the diameter of the outside of the rope. Therefore things like webbing and flattened rope have very little loss.

Dave
 
I know what your saying Rob. I got into splicing myself and have alot of fun with it. Have you tried talking to Stanley Longstaff? His phone number is at the end of the Toss video.

I recently started using the Roachy system with spliced eye in the captive eye biner with William biner through the captive eye. I find the gate seems wear alot on my eye. I have been thinking next time maybe putting some shielding over the eye splice when I splice it.

I too have been wonder how some companies get away with not putting in the overlap and taper. I had a samson rope that was giving some trouble at the end with over lap. I always have trouble getting the wond in with the core. Anyway what did this time was to where the core and cover came out I put the core in inside burried cover and then milked those back inside. I had to tie one end off to a tree and setup a 27 to 1 pullet system to suck it in but it worked.

Have you tried any of the T900 yet? Thats a really fun splice. I made a cambium saver out of some.

Anyway glad to see ya back on tree buzz. I like the way you think.
 
Hey,Guy's I'm glad to hear people's imput on splicing I find it very rewarding to turn out my own splices. I've been doing it about 3 year's and it seem's I also take alot more care than the manufacturer's splice's not speeking about them all. The big question I have is that where can I learn the stitched splice like the one PETZL used on there JANE lanyard. I've also seen on Mark C. German EDLERID climbing ropes that the core is taken out then stitched together to make the eye.They say that a stiched splice rivals a berryed splice in strenth if any of you guy's know any thing about it please let me know!
grin.gif
 
message from bigjon: I have been thinking next time maybe putting some shielding over the eye splice when I splice it.


often in my splices, i slip a small piece of tubular webbing on the eye before i splice it. this way, the webbing takes the wear. it gives me a few "free" months with NO wear on the actual line.
I keep on hand webbing in sizes ranging from 1/4" to 2" Added Bonus: You can use the different colors of the webbing to make things more recognizable, or just more purty!

love
nick

climb safe
 
I read a description of the bar tack machines that Black Diamond uses to stitch their webbing gear. They are all computer controlled to keep the thread tensioned correctly. Also, they have air jets blasting the needle to keep it cool. If the needle heats up it would melt rather than pierce the webbing. BD does batch testing to assure that their gear meets quality specs.

Some day I'd like to see how a bar tack is sewn. I've read that they use three needles. A bar tack might look like a zig zag but I know that it's much more complicated.

Tom
 
I was wondering those of you who have Toss splicing wands, what are you doing for replacement snares? I have been using No.8 whipping twine waxed. It works but only lasts maybe 3 or 4 tucks. The snare in the video looks to wire but mine came with string.
 
If you call (or maybe send a letter) to brion toss's rigging shop (www.briontoss.com), they WILL send you a new spectra type snare that comes with some of their newer wands. i think they might charge a dollar for shipping. I've used mine for well over fifty or seventy five tucks and still haven't broken it yet.

love
nick
 
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