Spider jack 3 info?

J

Jackohh1412

New member
Location
Bay Area
I have a sj3 (this point in the career DONT even need it but I wanted) fooling around on my own time for shits and giggles. I’m under the assumption that adjustment of the wooden hand brake would make it smoother? I literally just go up 10-15’ and try to work the decent until it’s dialed before going further. Fully compressing the black lever then trying to manipulate the hand break but is still jumpy and awkward and down right frustrating. I was curious if someone could weigh in with suggestions on dialing in this device. Also when using it I base tie a single line and run it through a hitch climber so I have a pulley as a tie-in I’ve read and viewed that it really shines when tip is friction less. Cool stuff look forward to getting the beauty out of it down the road.
 
I only use it for crane work at this point, but I have a custom tie-in with a pinto spliced into it to get the best out of the SJ3. When I used to use it for production work I would often use a floating false crotch like you are describing for quick jobs or remote anchors.
I still love flying around on the SJ3 when I get to. It’s a lot of fun. The secret is in using the thumb brake- the wooden brake should be taking all the friction once you depress the clutch lever. The clutch should really only be taking load to keep you in place. Learning to transition between the two mechanisms smoothly is a trick, but once you learn it, it’s like riding a bicycle.
Keep going low and slow. You’ll get it.
 
Am I just completely operator error or is there any adjustments of the handbrake that would help the sensitivity of the device? I feel I understand the process you know depress the lever and utilize the hand brake. I guess it’s just like anything new and you have to just tough it out and learn it
 
You should have the thumb brake fully engaged on the line before you depress the clutch lever. The thumb brake should only be adjusted as you wear down the material.
How hard should you be pressing down on the thumb brake before you depress the clutch lever? You should be able to depress the clutch lever without resistance, and not descend at all. All friction should be on the thumb brake before you depress the clutch lever. Your descent is then controlled by backing off or on the thumb brake, until coming to a stop. Release of the entire mechanism engages the clutch, and keeps you in place.
If you use the clutch to control your descent, it will wear prematurely and start to creep when the rope is at a wide angle (choked around a spar). Using the clutch is also “jerky.”
Practice engaging the thumb brake enough that there is little or no resistance when you depress the clutch lever. Then, just play the friction on the thumb brake to control your descent.
Low and slow! Hope this helps.
 
Yeah that’s a big eye opener I was doing it completely opposite trying to depress the lever and push up the thumb brake at the same time and other stupid shit. Your explanation has helped a lot and was easy to understand huge help again thanks @Mitch Hoy
 
I always thought it was an awkward method to operate it, extending one muscle group (thumb) while contracting another (fingers). It took deliberate practice to get the action down properly.
 
I can see why it’s not the first choice of mechanicals compared to a zigzag which has no learning curve lol all amazing devices and with this one I enjoy dialing it and hope to use it in a work scenario in the future luckily at work I received a zigzag moved up from a Blake’s to a hitch climber and it’s been a world of difference with a zag.
 
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