Speedline w/ short distance to work with

I have had several jobs that I would like to use a speedline. But I think the distance not long enough.

The trees down here are know taller than 60'. The area to work in is 30 to 50 feet. Any help or advice would be great.
 
Zac-I'm not familiar w/load transfer line. could you explain the procedure.

Sorry no pic's, we have small yards w/ flower beds, so not much area to work with. THANKS!
 
Mahk- Thanks for the info. I don't have any other trees near by to use. I have a palm stalk (40') with no top, a pool right next to it and a fence too.
 
We've used what I call a fast speedline in those situations. Probably called a "load transfer line" more so. Maybe the term, "drift line" would be good. It's best used when you have an object directly under the tree and a tree with lots of small limbs, like a spruce or other conifer. And if the speedline doesn't need to be long and you really don't need a control line because the speedline will quickly get the limbs past the object.

see quick diagram I drew in 5 minutes. then pictures.
 

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picture of tree removal in situation for a "fast speedline" or "load transfer line".
 

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picture of a limb running down the speeline with no control line.

groundman lets the speedline slack when it's almost to the drop area.

groundman can manually tension the speedline if small limbs are running down the line.

hope this helps with some ideas.
 

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Any place to lay it down, leaving high stump? High stump giving less area needed for fall(but lowers leverage), high line placed from ground giving high leverage to muscle hinge (wide face, no dutch) over to proper direction and slower fall. Higher stump can then give more punch into ground by head if muscling over though...

Sometimes, a speedline can go from high anchor behind tree to anchor in front of tree. Can get more clearance of obstacles underneath with more balanced load at hitch point. Can use control line as Mark shows, with a more balanced load can give even more clearance. But can also can use a pull line (throw lined in towards light end from ground) working against the control line (butt hitched for this purpose); to give lots of clearance. But, control lines can slow the speed of throw across, which can give more dip of speed line and more of a straight hang for less clearance than a fast moving throw across speedline.

A load transfer line to me is a secondary line off another high anchor, but too far away to give good overhead support. So (primary) overhead support line lowers to tightened load transfer line, that serves load away. So, like speedline can give lowering, travel across ground, obstacle clearance and less raking; all in 1 move.
 
Thanks everyone for the advice an looking to put some of these on future jobs. But I have no room to play with.
1.Palm stalk 40'x(20"at dbh and 8-10"at 30').
2.Pool 4' from palm.
3.Fence - 2-3' from palm.
3.Palm has about 3-5' of grass area from pool concreat deck to fence. Also the top 10' has freeze damage.


I did 8 just about like this one. I used 3 rows of pallets and 3/4" plywood for cushon. Also I use a block an sling. Worked well but wanted to try something new.
 
[ QUOTE ]
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"fast speedline" or "load transfer line".

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I've heard this referred to as a Zipline.

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Right-O TL.

Zipline. Basically a speedline without a control line.

Load transfer line is...ummm...different.
 
For working in tight spots, you can employ a tagline on a branch being lowered to pull it where you need it. Alternatively, you can set a speedline and clip a sling on the branch being lowered to the tight speedline. Keep it tight, and down she come, right where you want it. No different than a controlled speedline, but with a steeper descent angle.
 
To try and clarify:

A driftline/load transfer line utilizes two ropes and two (usually spread apart) rigging points. Working the lines together, skilled groundsmen can drop the load in a limited landing zone. Let me try and draw a picture...
 
Here goes: So you're working on the tree on the right, but you can't lower pieces straight down because Britney Spears is there. You can, however, set a rigging point in the tree on the left.

Tip tye line 1, butt tie line 2
Catch the load with the port-a-wrap on line 2
Take in slack with with line 1, the gas powered drill works great here
As line 1 tightens, pay out line 2. Now the load is shared.
Gradually, transfer the load off of line 2 completely onto line 1 where the LZ is clear.

Repeat as necessary.
 

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THANKS AGAIN EVERYONE FOR YOUR INPUT.

ZAC - I was considering driftline if the nearest tree is tall enough.and Britney showes up.

Cranes there's NO $'s down here.
 

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