some video of my tree work

Welcome Ace

Big trees as usual

I would like a go with that power ascender.....can I borrow it some time
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mi6kR1AmVSc&feature=related
 
Thanks for showing the vids. I always like watching what people are doing elsewhere.

The power-ascender is kind of cool, good idea and all, but it sure is noisy. There is an electric rope climber out there that is smaller, faster and silent. 60 ft. in 12 sec. I seen it in a Popular Mechanics mag about a year ago. Some MIT students developed it. Though, probably not available to the public yet.
 
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There is an electric rope climber out there that is smaller, faster and silent. 60 ft. in 12 sec. I seen it in a Popular Mechanics mag about a year ago. Some MIT students developed it. Though, probably not available to the public yet.

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Electric as in battery operated or corded?

That is 5'/second!
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Hi Reg hows things going , I not quite finished my report yet.
You will have to come over here
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to have a go of the power ascender its my little baby toy
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Whats the weather like cold hey.

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Good mate, busy. Not really cold although we have the strongest winds this winter forcast to hit on sunday. But with have a half-uprooted pine to bring down today, I sure hope they dont come early. Later Ace
 
Gerald_,Jamin
The Atlas is fast alright, but its the time in setting up the climbing lines that matters,you could big shot 20 times before you get the right branch.I looked at a battery one but petrol was the go just like running a chainsaw onsite, to much stuffing around with charging.My power ascender climbs 22m in 1 min,i think its fast enough dont forget we have to go under and around limbs on the way up not just a clear path to the top.
 
Re: some video of my tree work

This isn't being critical, I've done it myself and that is stopping the cut prior to hinge break as the top goes over causing the top to land on its end.
A humboldt notch and continued cutting of the hinge helps prevent the top from landing on end and bouncing out of control.
An additional rope on the bottom of the top might be the real remedy but I haven't tried it.
This video with the top going over is a prime example, that's the only reason I picked it.

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Re: some video of my tree work

Kevin
It's not the stopping of cutting before hinge break that causing the top to land on its end,it's the hight and the angles of the scarf cuts that do that and if i was to scarf cut higher or lower would it had landed flat? any way it was a dirt dead end road ,(out of Control)didn't go to far for a 4ton piece coming down from 60ft i think?
Cheers
Ace
 
Re: some video of my tree work

No problem in what you were doing in that location, just using it as an example.
The only problem if any in that location would be having the top come back and hit the tree you're working in but like I said this isn't to be critical of your work but rather opening the topic to have the top land flat.
The rope at the top is causing it to tip over and the hinge is holding it at the bottom which doesn't allow the top to release from the tree until it tips too far and breaks the hinge wood which is causing it to land on its end.

This would help do that ...

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Re: some video of my tree work

The only way to cut sections so that they land consistently flat is to fall about fifth of the height of the spar (a 20' section off of a 100' spar), which lets the section make one full rotation before landing. Depth of undercut, openface, conventional vs humboldt all makes very little difference.

I'm not saying it doesn't make any difference just not much.

By far the largest factor is the length of the piece and the height from which it is felled.

I'm almost certain that Jerry Beranek's book 'Fundamentals of General Tree Work' discusses this and makes the same point.
 
Re: some video of my tree work

Hey, Kevin

Your graphics skills are down good. I never thought of fixing the rope like you illustrated. Pretty clever, and would be worth playing around with.

Gord said it,, about as close as I wrote it years ago, "sections of wood, vertical and absent of limbs will continue to turn after tipping over and leaving the cut." Type of face and degree of opening can affect, but not major.

However, leave one limb on said section and the outcome will change dramatically. Any limbs on a section of wood will make it flag in the wind and kill the rotation. And depending on what side the limb is,, when the section tips over can make the section rotate quite a bit before it starts flagging.

Occasionally I've left limbs on vertical sections to help carry them over. But it throws a big variable into the equation. Generally only useful in wide open drop zones.

With the opportunity to play around with it one can gain skills.
 
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