Some Pferd Questions

opposablethumb

opposablethumb

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Mid-Atlantic
I like the Pferd system. But I'm hitting a few hiccups with it...so...if you have some answers to any of the below questions, I'd be grateful to you.

1) Are you only supposed to use Pferd round files in the sharpening system?

2) Do you occasionally have to round off the depth gauges still?

3) Every had trouble with the 5/32" round files sitting too low against the chain, such that it doesn't really file the top plate appropriately?

4) Ever had a freshly filed chain rattle and chatter and vibrate on you, like really bad?

Thanks for any help.
-Rob
 
Sounds like your rakers are too low, or you're using a file that is too narrow in diameter for the height of the tooth. That can leave you with a excessive filing of the gut which will make the chain run like garbage. I don't have experience with the Pferd system, but I've tried similar, and IMO, nothing beats a file in hand with careful use. Get the saw on a solid work surface where you can apply steady, even pressure with the file.

Start with a file diameter that seats in the gut and still comes up above the chisel edge a bit. You can usually jump down a size or two in diameter as the chain teeth loose length and height. The file may almost feel as if it wants to jump out of the gut when it's too large in diameter, and it will cut forever without reaching the chisel edge when it's too narrow in diameter.

When a chain dulls from normal wear, you'll see buildup on the top of the tooth and you can see the rounded chisel edge is actually visible. Even wear on the teeth means you have the perfect guide to know when all the teeth are back to a similar length good enough for it to run smooth...just file until you get your edge back, and count your file passes. You should be giving each tooth a similar amount of passes with the file.

Then look at the rakers and see if they look rounded or worn. You don't need much more than a couple-three passes with a flat file for things to rock again...just don't overdo it. If you know your edge is sharp but the saw isn't aggressive, give the rakers another pass. Let the smooth side of the flat file ride along your thumb nail to prevent the file from hitting the fresh chisel edge.

Take this with a grain of salt, but for me, taking a chain off the saw only happens when the chain has no life left in it, or it has hit metal and would kill a file. Again, IMO, filing a dull chain at home is more work later in the day, and with practice, for a normal file job, you can have the saw rocking in not much more time than it takes to change out the chain.
 
[ QUOTE ]


1) Are you only supposed to use Pferd round files in the sharpening system?

2) Do you occasionally have to round off the depth gauges still?

3) Every had trouble with the 5/32" round files sitting too low against the chain, such that it doesn't really file the top plate appropriately?

4) Ever had a freshly filed chain rattle and chatter and vibrate on you, like really bad?



[/ QUOTE ]

1. Nope any round file will work. The Pherd files are excellent though. The flat files are specific though

2. What do mean the front edge of the depth gauge? I have never found a performance improvement, but then that may be the Oregon chain I run and not true of other brands/types.

3. On occasion with a new chain the filling was not as good with the Pherd as with just a hand file. This did not last long one or two touch ups at most.

Occasionally the ends of my Pherd file will pull apart. This dislodges the bar that runs along the forward tooth and guides the files. After every ten or so strokes I just push the whole thing end wise down into the bench. My Pherd guides are fairly old and have many many sharpening to their credit.

4. As Eric said, either depth gauges too low or the gullet is too deep. I have seen this happen with some chains when new with the Pherd file system. Rare, but constant vigilance and knowing what a sharp chain "looks" like and using the tool that will archive the result you need.

Tony
 
[ QUOTE ]

2. What do mean the front edge of the depth gauge? I have never found a performance improvement, but then that may be the Oregon chain I run and not true of other brands/types.
Tony

[/ QUOTE ]


See attachment.
It's not imperative, but it will make for a smoother cut, by rounding the leading edge of the depth gauge. I do it.
 

Attachments

By making sure I rotate evenly, my flat files last a year or so. I sharpen less a lot, as opposed to fewer times more, make sense?

Tony
 
Rob, I don't know much about sharpening chainsaws ( I suck actually ). What I will suggest as a Toolmaker by trade is this, buy good files in general, never drag them backwards, never lube them, and use a brass or nylon brush (file card) to clean them. Hope that helps to some extent.

Frank
 
Just picked up the pferred set up.... Used it a couple times, seems like the saws getting sharp but rakers are not coming down enough? I did read through the instructions and I'm not sure what I'm missing?
 
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