Smaller top handle recommendation needed

Jimmycrackcorn said:
As much as I've cursed the Echos & their throw away under powered / heavy designs... I've got to say, that newer small one has my eye on it.. I have a feeling id have to have it modified for me to accept the power level & give a thumbs up... but never the less.. the minature size is very appealing..

With that said.. I'm not sure how heavy the battery powered ones are & i can't see them having power on par with gasser, but you absolutely touched on something when you mentioned the fact that the motor shuts itself down after a certain temp/workload.. That's absolute BS.. As a professional, you should not have to deal with that.. shit.. not even at a consumer level.. but these companies are so quick to jump on the Green wagon they push these products out there with these defects as if they are there newest proven technology.. I'm sorry but if i have to stop & wait for a peice of equipment (not just any peice of equipment but my main tool), i consider that tool heavily flawed.. Yes, i believe it's a flaw/defect even though it's programmed to do it.. as it's not a desireable trait to have a tool that doesn't work.. most would call that broken.. kno what i mean?

The shutting down has probably been around forever but I've only recently experienced it when swapping out this old cordless drill that refused to die.. It was so old & batteries have come so far in the meantime that i figured I'd be getting some primo tool compared to what i had before.. With the old one, it would just die... then i recharge & boom done.. no problem, no drama.. However this new one, i have to stop in the middle of what I'm doing & freaking wait?? Are you kidding me?? That's absolute BS. I was very irritated when I found this out.. I'll tell you straight up, there's plenty of low cost high power/high drain capable batteries out there.. why their not in these tools beats the hell out of me.

If the B-Saws are acting the same as my drill, i hate to imagine the potientially dangerous/destructive situations they can put me/you in.. To have a scenario where your cutting & you let off the trigger & the next time you pull it nothing happens?... well.. i don't think i have to say much more ...

Steve.. what happens with that? Do you have any warning it's about to happen?

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You know, that’s funny- I’ve had the saw stop because it bogged in a cut, when they are out of juice they just stop! But I have yet to experience thermal overload. I have both batteries too. I must say that I only use the electrics on branches and tops, as soon as the wood hits 8” or so I immediately swap out to a more appropriate saw. But that said, if I’m doing medium small birch, there isn’t much branch and you are into 8” or better wood pretty quickly- I just use a 200t to avoid the need to swap. But the electrics are the bomb for skinning branches on tall connies- no pull cords- no exhaust- no engine running when not in use! Less noise in areas where that can be an issue, and less vibration which ultimately is easier on wrists and fingers. No they aren’t perfect, but I like em. One important detail though- they must be sharp!
 
Very satisfied with my stock cs2511t. I would like it even more with a pico chain and 1/4 tip sprocket bar. Cracks me up that they could come so close to a blazing saw right out of the box, then come up a tad short and leave Stihl in the market.
 
You know, I called Echo about the chain gauge and they said that saw in 12" comes with the .043" standard. But, every retailer I spoke with that had a 12" said it had the .050" - they opened the box and looked. Echo makes the .043" bar and chain for that saw though. Surprised that they didn't make that standard for the saw. Good news is that Echos .050" 3/8p takes the same 5/32 (4mm) files I use for the Stihl .043" 3/8p which I have several saws using. But Echos .043" takes a 4.5mm file, which I don't own. This info is what's listed on their bar and chain guide online, hope it's right, lol..
 
I haven't seen an echo branded .043 bar for the 2511 yet. Word on the street is the will be selling it with a 1/4p option here in the states soon. The parts are available to convert it already.
That being said I just threw a loop of stihl 63pm on there and it was night and day from the Oregon pxl chatter chain. Roped out a hickory stem down to bar length and the saw never felt under powered. My t540 just sits in the truck now.
 
The echo .043 bar PN is 12A4CD3745C in case anyone is interested. We gotta quit talking about the 1/4", cause I keep seeing a second 2511 when I go to my happy place! I gotta stop doing that.
 
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Jackjcc said:
I emailed the Saw King about his west coast 2511’s. They are $875 if anybody is curious, shipping included I believe.


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875 screw that! The muffler mod is easy to do yourself. Just a couple gills with a dremel type grinder. Be sure to pull the little red limit tabs from the carb with a drywall screw.

20180831_092646.webp

I don't remember how much the chain conversion was, but if you want the parts for the 1/4" chain contact Nate at: https://performanceoutdoorequipment.com/m/index.htm

Really all these saws need, but if you wanted to advance the timing there are plenty over at ope forum to walk you through that.
 
I believe it's the bar off the 150t ( if you're asking about 1/4p) you need the echo 1/4 sprocket as well. If you're talking about the narrow kerf/ picco bar it's the same part numbers as a ms192 or 170 and the sprocket stays the same
 
southsoundtree said:
What Stihl bar and chain are people using on the cs2511t? Is the sprocket compatible or does it need to be changed?

Thanks.
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Not trying to resurrect an old thread, but I have been running a good 1/4" bar for a couple of weeks. Check out the Panther mini bars. They mount up properly to the Echo, and work well with Stihl PM3 chain. They are great for pruning with the taper, and cut smooth with a stock or mod saw.
 
I'm running an 8" panther bar on my 2511t. The power is a little much, but it never bogs in the cut. I did an 8" cut in dead live oak on Saturday and it ate it up. I'm buying a 14" panther when they come in stock. When I checked a few months ago they just had 12".
 
I'm a fan of the 12" bars for weight balance on the 2511. The solid carving bars are nose heavy, but the laminates feel good.
For a faster cutting setup if you have the power: Sugihara light type pro with Oregon 95txl is a good combo if the budget allows. Woodland Pro has a good budget bar and chain option for either their own 1/4" chain or 95txl. Don't try to run Stihl PM3 on a Woodland bar, the sprocket will grenade.
For smooth pruning cuts: Panther bar and Stihl PM3.
Just my opinion of course, and there's a few bar and chain combos that I haven't tried yet. If I only had one, I'd choose the 12" Panther with PM3, especially on a new saw with no power. The stock setup is way too chattery.
 
Hitchwrap said:
I'm a fan of the 12" bars for weight balance on the 2511. The solid carving bars are nose heavy, but the laminates feel good.
For a faster cutting setup if you have the power: Sugihara light type pro with Oregon 95txl is a good combo if the budget allows. Woodland Pro has a good budget bar and chain option for either their own 1/4" chain or 95txl. Don't try to run Stihl PM3 on a Woodland bar, the sprocket will grenade.
For smooth pruning cuts: Panther bar and Stihl PM3.
Just my opinion of course, and there's a few bar and chain combos that I haven't tried yet. If I only had one, I'd choose the 12" Panther with PM3, especially on a new saw with no power. The stock setup is way too chattery.
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do you need to change out the sprocket when you go for the panther and pm3 chain?
 
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