Simple 3:1 technique

Reg,
you know i am a fan of you and your work and you discovering new techniques for this industry,i have a lot of respect for what you do.
To be profitable in this business you have to be safe(1st and foremost),not cause damage(property,plants,people,pets,etc) knowledgable(which you certainly are)and efficient.
Your methods are cutting edge for this industry but i find that they are rigging intensive for most applications.
Dont get me wrong Reg,come across a tough takedown and you are the man for the job.
Basically what im trying to say is that you can over-complecate a relativly simple job by over rigging thus not being efficient, and, at the end of the day we are working to make a $.
I love climbing trees and all aspects of tree work but its my living and(bottom line) i got to make an earn so efficiency is my catchphrase!

PS. maybe im just envious of how good you are! :-)
 
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Reg,
you know i am a fan of you and your work and you discovering new techniques for this industry,i have a lot of respect for what you do.
To be profitable in this business you have to be safe(1st and foremost),not cause damage(property,plants,people,pets,etc) knowledgable(which you certainly are)and efficient.
Your methods are cutting edge for this industry but i find that they are rigging intensive for most applications.
Dont get me wrong Reg,come across a tough takedown and you are the man for the job.
Basically what im trying to say is that you can over-complecate a relativly simple job by over rigging thus not being efficient, and, at the end of the day we are working to make a $.
I love climbing trees and all aspects of tree work but its my living and(bottom line) i got to make an earn so efficiency is my catchphrase!
PS. maybe im just envious of how good you are! :-)

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I'm really glad you posted what plenty of others might also be thinking chopper, it gives me a good opportunity clarify the situation. Seems as I post so infrequently I do try to at least make it interesting if an opportunity presents itself.

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I love climbing trees

[/ QUOTE ] You see that’s where we differ chopper because I don’t, but its still my job at the end of the day. So please understand that if its at all conceivable for me to put a tree down with out leaving the floor then I will....failing that, the incentive is to do as little climbing and cutting in the tree as possible....whether by means of rigging or freefall, whichever best achieves the goal.

There are countless videos I could have made of falling trees in there entirety or blasting off tops and large limbs etc. There are also plenty of other techniques that I wouldn't dare show for fear of them being misunderstood and someone getting killed while attempting to copy them.

So you see I'm just careful what I post about....just because I have some rigging threads on the forum it doesn't mean I use the techniques when there are otherwise smarter ways of doing the same job.

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Basically what Im trying to say is that you can over-complicate a relatively simple job by over rigging thus not being efficient, and, at the end of the day we are working to make a $.

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The topic of this thread was that of a cheap and simple self tending means to tension a rope.... if it make a job easier. I'm certainly not suggesting to do it every time
smirk.gif
 
Reg,

I was thinking today...you guys should come up with a quickly attachable ascender-like device to clip on the rope instead of messing with the prusik. Maybe something along the lines of how the petzl pantin attaches quickly to the rope.

That'd be killer.

Cool tool otherwise.
 
I would be very cautiuos of using any ascending device to attach a MA. Although quick and easy to setup the cammed and toothed acenders put a great deal of stress on a small portion of rope this can literally cut the rope or tear the outer sheath off, espiacally in a situation where MA is used. The benifit of a prussik is it covers more surface area therefore reducing a "hot spot" of concentrated pressure. Also prussiks also have the ability to slip then grab if overloaded. this gives the operator an oppurtunity to reevaluate. With a mech. ascender that indicater is not present and damage to the primary rigging rope is possible.
 
very nice it looks smooth.2 questions 1st what size of line does it take. 2nd I like the idea and I'm not sure where it might be written but the hook on the top that goes through the prusik doesn't it need a safete catch of sorts like a gate? I'm from Ontario Canada so maybe some rules are different it's just what I got taught? one last question is where can I get one? Thanks

Kevin
 
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very nice it looks smooth.2 questions 1st what size of line does it take. 2nd I like the idea and I'm not sure where it might be written but the hook on the top that goes through the prusik doesn't it need a safete catch of sorts like a gate? I'm from Ontario Canada so maybe some rules are different it's just what I got taught? one last question is where can I get one? Thanks

Kevin

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Kevin, you can squeeze in a 3/4in. To add a catch on the hook would really defeat the objective i.e. it is meant to slip in and out of hitch with minimal fuss. Consider also that the wheel/channel is cut extra deep so the rope cant roll out. As long the pulley is only used as shown in the video - adding a catch wouldn't make it any safer.

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one last question is where can I get one?

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There will be a few retailers in America but I cant name names just yet....and not available over your way till the new year anyhow. Thanks http://www.fletcherstewart.co.uk/proddetail.php?prod=SS-RC3100
 
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Do you know if anyone has used the pulley yet with a Porta Wrap?

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Not heard anything yet Chris. My concern is that the wraps might work their way up towards the redi/shaft on the Buckingham, as tension is applied. Hopefully I'm wrong.
 
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