Siberian Elm removal

I'll echo what I said on the TreeHouse...

A nice boring take-down... just the way I like them.

Good camera work. [thumbs up]
 
Nice vid, made that job look easy. Tighten the pullcord on the 66 please!
 
Dan,

so you are "snap cutting" your backcut...

I hadn't seen that before. (check out the last 20 seconds of vid).

I'm not being smart, but.... Why?

so you don't have to worry about the spar setting back I guess.

no need for wedges.

I don't know if I like it yet or not.....
 
The main reason I like the plunge cut is that it sets the height of the backcut very accurately.. especially when cutting low near or in the trunk flare, the wood fibers can twist and get all squirly... Not good as the higher the backcut, the greater the distance between the hinge and the more liklihood there will be some imperfection or twist in the wood grain, causing the notch to fail... (Ask me how I know?) Its nice to gun the notch and the backcut in a state of leisure.. One drawback to the plunge is that it does not allow the faller to adjust the gun on the backcut during the fall... and one perk is that it allows the faller to stand away from the stump and call for the pull to break the strap.

The bore cut, or plunge cut with a back release has many purposes.. It is an excellent way to avoid barber chair on heavy front leaners.. That is probably where it gained popularity amongst loggers.. Life and death etc.. I use it for a lot of different reasons

on those bigger diameter trees, my backcut can stray a bit from level... I have a tendancy to cut the back cuts too high, in order to avoid cutting them too low, the fibers in the hinge can get funny with a high backcut, and loss of control results... with the plunge cut, it pretty much doesn't matter how the saw is cutting.. that backcut is right around 1" above the level of trhe notch, right where I like it...

I also like to make the back release cut very low, as I would flush cut the stump... that way the log takes half the stump cut with it... that means less cutting to finish the flush cut and only half a round to handle, which will often go right through the chipper...

Plunge cut allows the faller to pre-set the hinge, getting it just right... Takes a bit of practice though... like anything else... learn in non critical situations and get good before using it when there is a lot at stake..
 
Define "too high". Some stump shot isn't an issue, and can actually be beneficial; taller hingewood is more flexible, and can let the hinge work over a greater radius. As much as 4" can be perfectly fine.
 
All depends on the wood... Good hinging wood will give more control with a higher backcut (2"+), as the longer fibers can flex and stretch more, however poor hinging wood does not respond well to a high back cut as the fibers will break before they bend over that much distance... So too high is species dependent... VERY MUCH so...

So as a rule, I try to stay .5-1" above the notch with the backcut, UNLESS I need the added control. Then I will go higher on good hinging wood... On poor hinging wood I stay under 1"... How do you think Siberian Elm hinges? I know American Elm hinges really well, but the Siberian looks a lot more like shinese elm to me, and that hiunges poorly. I never cut a lot of siberian elm, so I wouldn't want to chance it with and there was no need anyway as these were pretty straight forward notch and drop spars.. The gun was important, not extra control at the hinge..
 
Daniel, did you mean Chinese Elm; Ulmus parvifolia? It's alright... not fantastic.

I wasn't decrying your reasoning; I'm aware that people who have made relatively few notch & back cuts don't get the same practice we do in logging... it's all we do all day long.

I've never noticed a detriment in using stump shot with poorer hinging woods; you just don't really gain anything in the way of longer hang time.

Going for the sure thing is never bad.

Your snap-cutting the spars isn't bad; some *winches and machinery can't maintain a continued pull while you cut the back cut. Doing the notched snap cut takes away the need for that steady pull. (*such as the Farmi skidding winches)
 
[ QUOTE ]
Its nice to gun the notch and the backcut in a state of leisure.. One drawback to the plunge is that it does not allow the faller to adjust the gun on the backcut during the fall...

[/ QUOTE ]

I'm so confussed
thk.gif
is he talking about hunting deer or cutting trees. By his avy pic I think he really talking about hunting and aiming more than tree work. What the hell exactly is gun the notch? do i blast it with my 12ga? What gun are you adjusting?
 
Never had a problem with the low snap cut back releaase...

Probably would not use it on a heavy backleaner though.. With the pull line set high and the machine pulling, there is plenty of force to break the fibers... Also as mentioned no problem with set back.

No one commented on the doubled (running) bowline used for one of the tops coming down. I like leaving a long tail for the bowline and burrying it under the eye. Had a bowline pull out once on a heavy top.. not backed up with a half hitch, and leaving a short tail... Pulled right through. It was a VERY big top of a white pine. Fortunately no damage done.. lesson learned though. Got that on video too. Saving it for the bloopers...
 

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