Show off them splices

ARLO said:
The HH is why I bought a bunch of Ultra Tech in the first place. I like it because I can pull the core back a bit and squish down the hollow cover to form a tapered tip. I do a short whip on the hollow cover and then paint the whipping with rope dope. That makes a nice tapered tip that will not unravel and is easy to thread through the dog bone. My guess is that you probably do something similar? But then I had so much Ultra Tech laying around that I decided I would use it up by making eye to eye prusik cords. That is what happens when you are semi-retired and have too much time on your hands.
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Do you use a class 2 db splice for that stuff. If so where do you get the instructions? Thanks
 
ARLO said:
The HH is why I bought a bunch of Ultra Tech in the first place. I like it because I can pull the core back a bit and squish down the hollow cover to form a tapered tip. I do a short whip on the hollow cover and then paint the whipping with rope dope. That makes a nice tapered tip that will not unravel and is easy to thread through the dog bone. My guess is that you probably do something similar? But then I had so much Ultra Tech laying around that I decided I would use it up by making eye to eye prusik cords. That is what happens when you are semi-retired and have too much time on your hands.
Click to expand...
Hadn't been doing the hollow core/whip/dope, but I will now. Been using the smaller cord, which is still pretty dogbone freindly reguardless.

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk
 
That's just outright, Wrong! I'd give someones Left Nut for a chance to splice that much rope. I'm just in Awe with jealousy! If you're gonna dream, dream BIG!


Dave6390 in WI
 
CBM said:
Do you use a class 2 db splice for that stuff. If so where do you get the instructions? Thanks
Click to expand...

Ultra-Tech is a core-dependent cord with a 12-strand core of spectra and a thin cover of braided polyester. The splice that I use for this cord is a Brummel splice with a full fid bury (see attached photo). I use the same splice for Bee-Line. I have tested a single eye-to-eye sample of Ultra-Tech with this splice and it broke at 5,200 lbs. Neither of the splices broke. One of the eyes broke at the very end where it made the tight radius around the screw-lock that was inserted in the eye. I don't know of any published directions on how to do this splice with Ultra-Tech or Bee-Line, but you can find instructions for Brummel splices on line. I use the McDonald Brummel splice which is just one of several variations used to tie this splice.

All of that being said, doing this splice with Ultra-Tech is not easy because it is a bit tricky to figure out the correct length of cover and core to get the exact length of hitch cord you want and because getting the cover secured at both ends so that it is secure and looks nice is a bit of an art. You will also need some heat-shrink tubing to cover up the ends of the cover before you apply the whipping and lock-stitching (I slip the 2 pieces of tubing onto the rope before tying the second Brummel). In the end, it is a lot of work to go through for a hitch cord that will not last long because it has a cover that melts at 480 degrees.
 

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My ultra ring sling

My ultra ring sling

  • Media owner JTSpear
  • Date added
  • Comments 9
ABR #3 ring with 3/4" ten ex tec

Here's an ultra ring I whipped up yesterday. It came out a bit shorter then I hoped.

Has anyone made an E2E from HRC? I have some laying around I bought for my Hitch Hiker, but I haven't been using it since I got a RR. I figure its just a locking brummel with a short bury? whip the cover to the core?
 
JTSpear said:
My ultra ring sling

My ultra ring sling

  • Media owner JTSpear
  • Date added
  • Comments 9
ABR #3 ring with 3/4" ten ex tec

Here's an ultra ring I whipped up yesterday. It came out a bit shorter then I hoped.

Has anyone made an E2E from HRC? I have some laying around I bought for my Hitch Hiker, but I haven't been using it since I got a RR. I figure its just a locking brummel with a short bury? whip the cover to the core?
Click to expand...
You've got HRC right. It's just like bee line or ultra tech. Or.... you could use a class II directions... [emoji14]

Reed Wortley
CTSP #01739
ISA CA #SO-6953A
 
Earlier in this thread I challenged everybody to try to make an eye to eye shorter than 35" using class II instructions. Disregard my tomfoolery and carry on with the method you described.

Reed Wortley
CTSP #01739
ISA CA #SO-6953A
 
Nice job JT! When Worthhaug issued his challenge I did not read it carefully and thought he was referring to a class 1 db. So, I raced out to the garage and tied the shortest e2e that I could in 10mm Ocean Poly (see below). I was feeling pretty smug, and then I re-read his challenge and that took all the wind out of my sails.
 

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I hide the end of the cover by covering it with a piece of heat-shrink tubing. Shrink the tubing down tight and then do the whiplock over the tubing. When you do the shrinking be sure not to cook the exposed core fibers. It helps to have a good heat gun with a curved heat-shrink tip for shrinking the tubing. I am not sure if it is absolutely necessary, but I also shield the exposed core fibers with a piece of heat-resistant tube while I am doing the shrinking.
 
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