Setting retaining lines on leaning trees

chep

chep

New member
Location
Bradford, Vermont
Due to 2 recent incidences, 1 job was mine 1 wasnt. Where property damage (minimal) occurred on side leaning trees. On was a whole tree flop, and the other a side and back leaning spar. Both incidences ended with hinge failure. And although the damages were minimal I was mortified at the thought of damaging property. I have a very good track record, and want to keep it that way!

I need some advice on setting retaining lines on trees that are leaning. I am talking angles, tension etc.

Just looking for a little insight, and even if there is literature on the subject, I would be greatful for a lead.

thanks so much
 
A valuable trick I learned about guying is to use a line as a limiter. The line is set with some slack so that the tree won't arc off to one side while it's falling. The slacked line acts like a limiter but doesn't actually provide a pull. If things go right it never even gets a load.

Think of it like seat belt clutch/retractors. They only engage with a load not with every movement.

A long time ago someone...Jerry Beranek maybe???... showed how they set a horizontal rope between two trees in the drop zone. The tree fell into the rope which acted like a basket in a sense which cushioned the fall. I could see using something like that where the one end was tied high and the other low so that the tree fell and slid down the rope. It would take some thinking and careful calculating to make sure the rope and anchor trees didn't break too.
 
there's a lot of variables.. I use retainer lines A LOT! tough to cover it all.. just use common sense mostly..

Set the line as high as possible in the tree... try to get at least as much angle as is used to guy utility poles ( around 37 degrees me tinks).. Generally I get them tight, in order to help the hinge, not act as a fail safe.. When the anchor tree is too far back, I leave them loose to allow the tree to fall into the proper arc. Getting your angle right is important. Use a redirect floating block or equipment as ground anchor if needed. Obviously w equipment you have to be certain the tree isn't heavy enough to move the piece..

You can go high through a low crotch on the anchor tree for a better rope angle if needed, but that will tend to turn the tree a bit at the very end of the arc, and possibly put a lot of force on a the rope. The only time I ever broke a rope was on a monster oak, falling downhill in California, with an old piece of arborplex (not my rope)..

Often times there are interfering small trees. Use a porty on the anchor tree (prefer old school) and take three wraps. Once the tree has picked up momentum groundie can flip one wrap off and let gravity take it from there. Sometimes you just have to sacrifice the interfering tree, as its often better than putting a climber or property at risk.

One big leaning trees there is gonna be a lot of force.. Always use a knot that avoids strength loss.. Do not use a regular bowline.. always double it..
 
Well said, Daniel.

A picket can be used as well. We recently used a single t-post in beach sand as a speedline anchor. Now I keep a t-post in the truck.

Anchoring your retainer line 90 degrees to the lay, with some pretension should not swing or drop the tree from its faced lay. If your anchor tree is greater than or less than 90 degrees it will gain or lose tension during the latter part of the fall.

If setting the rope from in the tree/ bucket you can use a running bowline with two turns around the stem, and use a "double-hole"/ "jacked" bowline.
 
[ QUOTE ]

A picket can be used as well. We recently used a single t-post in beach sand as a speedline anchor. Now I keep a t-post in the truck.

[/ QUOTE ]

I've been eyballing the anchors used on outdoor tents and it seems fairly simple to set up a reliable system.. good to have around..
 
here's another important retainer line.. allowed me to drop this tree, without taking the back limb off, which was growing right through the pines in the back..
A little hard to see here.. the v line to the left was the pull line, two legs with a block set on the tree. The retainer line is less visible, to the right... it starts tight, then goes slack during the beginning of the fall, as the angle was less than 90 degrees. then towards the end of the fall , the retainer line gets tight again, after the hinge failed.

All of this was expected, and I had thought about having a man take up the slack in the retainer line, but decided against that plan, as that would leave plenty of opportunity for failure and possible injury.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MOW51BNyYjc
 
just ordered the ground anchor system, 3) 36" stakes, cross member and shipping for $75

Pioneer forge 800-359-6408..

may not need it for a while, but it will pay for itself first job.

I AM actually thinking that it can be used when there isn;t escape room for the loader, as a anchor for redirect pulley
 
I like 45^ height and 90^ to direction of fall. I usually wrap the anchor tree so it tightens during the fell, that can be important. And the amount of preload or slack. I call them side lines, I don't know if retaining line is the appropriate term.
 
side line isn't bad.... The formal term I have decided upon is "right angle retainer line".. a little long, but it works.. "retainer line" for short.. Side line could mean a few different things
 
x 2 on using the porty to anchor the retaining line. That way the line can be pretensioned before the notch and let run or held tight depending on how the tree starts to come down
 
[ QUOTE ]
just ordered the ground anchor system, 3) 36" stakes, cross member and shipping for $75

Pioneer forge 800-359-6408..

may not need it for a while, but it will pay for itself first job.

I AM actually thinking that it can be used when there isn;t escape room for the loader, as a anchor for redirect pulley

[/ QUOTE ]

Daniel, just wondering, do you still need to contact Dig Safe, before driving anything into the ground, especially a 3' stake?
 
ya,
the people that sold it to me, warned me about that!

Came in the mail, but I have yet to open it..

I had options for 42", 36" or 30" stakes.. We'll have to see what this system can hold...
 
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