Santiago Casanova
Branched out member
- Location
- Sink Hole
I always use a long fid taper. It makes a much smoother splice.
Scion/ tachyon splicing instructions
- Thread starter RBJtree
- Start date
I always use a long fid taper. It makes a much smoother splice.
- Location
- Randolph
Would you guys mind enlightening me as to what you mean by a fid splice?
Santiago Casanova
Branched out member
- Location
- Sink Hole
A fid is a splicing tool. They are usually tubular/round and made of aluminium. They have measurements on them that depend on rope diameter. A 1/2 inch fid is 21X the rope diameter. A short fid is shorter than a long fid. A long fid is shorter than a fid.
A fid is not necessary but it makes splicing and measuring a lot easier.
- Location
- Randolph
Sorry, mistake on my part, I meant a fid taper. I do know what a tubular fid is.
Santiago Casanova
Branched out member
- Location
- Sink Hole
We are just referring to the length of the core taper. Some manufacturers use a short fid and others use a long fid. I prefer a long fid.
- Location
- Randolph
So the core gets tapered for the entire length of a fid length?
- Location
- Randolph
Okay, but you guys are using fids to determine the length of the taper? That's the thing I'm having trouble with. I haven't seen anything referencing a fid be it long, short, or whole, in a set of instructions when describing the taper.
A lot of instructions say to only do a 45 degree cut off the end of the core bury, which makes it too blunt with tightly braided covers. I taper the whole core bury after it exits going around the eye, to make it more of a gradual transition.
ARLO
Branched out member
The fid is just used to do the initial layout for the splice. What you want is for the cover to taper gradually over its entire length where it is buried inside the core, from mark T on the rope to the end. This is done by following the manufacturer's directions for the cover taper. For example, with Tachyon you make your initial layout mark 1 fid from the end of the rope. Then you count 8 pics towards the end of the rope and make Mark T. Then, from Mark T you count 4 pics and mark a pair of strands and then 6 pics and mark another pair. Continue the alternating 4-6-pic pattern until you have 6 pairs of strands marked. Pull those strands and cut them off. Then, when you have done your core layout and pulled the cover through the core, pull it out a ways and cut a long gradual taper on the last couple of inches of core. This will give you a perfect taper all the way down the cover.
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ARLO
Branched out member
Another option with Tachyon is to alternate a 3-4 pattern from Mark T until you have 6 pairs marked. This gives a taper that is a bit easier to bury. I don't think it matters in terms of rope strength, as long as you get a nice long taper all the way to the end.
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Santiago Casanova
Branched out member
- Location
- Sink Hole
The taper pattern is not critical. The important part is not to have a sharp change in diameter. That is where a splice will break. I like the 3-4 pattern. It is easier to bury.
Phil
Carpal tunnel level member
- Location
- Oak Lawn, IL
Looks like there is a new splice called spLIFE?
Why something different? I'm not even sure how different it is... haven't looked at it thoroughly yet.
ghostice
Been here a while
I used to try my 5:1 on two stout anchors for final bury, but have had way more success with a length of pipe in between two joists in the basement (covered in PVC drain pipe for bigger bend radius) and my old Sequoia. I tie a knot up top leaving a length that'll keep me rear end about a foot off the floor and jump/ sit back on the splice few times. Sitting in the harness allows me to work the splice back and forth and milk the cover. This is the easiest method I've so far found to squirt the eye into the cover and end up with a nice finished splice. It also keeps me indoors which in winter up here keeps the rope warmer - maybe another reason the old way didn't get me very far at times.
Also concur with the above re lumps in your splice or sudden tapers - no good.
The times I've had a no-go is usually were, upon dissection, I've snagged some of the core strands. Fine wire fid helps (even the Brion and smaller tubuar fids are problematic) - a couple of times I've used the fid backwards to pull thru some leftover throwline, then pulled the bury on this. Helped to pull the core straight before tryng with a fid too (as above). I also make it a habit to pin the crossover with an awl or needle when fiddling to keep things tight after pulling. If the crossover ever goes big 'n lumpy I'm usually hooped.
Cheers
https:// www.youtube.com/watch?v=0FTlZgFvgJM
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- Location
- MT & ID
Eric Forsmans tachyon youtube instructions on the left and the newer spLIFE on the right. Still need to whip. Need to practice a better taper. The left one is rock hard in the throat, while the right one can easily bend and flex.
Definitely still a beginner, only done a hand full of eyes. I'm pretty skeptical of my spLIFE eye, as it was WAY too easy to do the final bury.
Definitely still a beginner, only done a hand full of eyes. I'm pretty skeptical of my spLIFE eye, as it was WAY too easy to do the final bury.
Attachments
ARLO
Branched out member
Looks good Butch. The standard Tachyon splice is always hard and stiff in the throat because the cover is tight and there is a lot of material crammed in there. That is why the bury is so hard to pull home. Considering that the spLife splice in Tachyon will not pull through my Zigzag, I am not convinced that the spLife splice is really an improvement over the standard Tachyon splice. The spLife splice is certainly more flexible, but if it is not as strong as the standard splice I am not sure if it is worth the trade off. I suspect others on this thread will have opinions?
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