Scion/ tachyon splicing instructions

RBJtree

Well-Known Member
Location
Pittsburgh
I have searched high and low on sterling's site and teufelberger's site and I can't find squat. I have some scion 11.5 I want to splice. Can someone help my computer handicapped ass find the instructions? Or should I just pull the center core /third layer and do a samson splice? Thanks.
 

ATH

Well-Known Member
Location
Ohio
Would this be different than other 24 stand double braid ropes (specifically thinking Yale's BlueMoon/Aztec/etc...)? TreeU slicing has a video doing Aztec...

I didn't watch through that and review the instructions @Batla posted.

Edit, to answer my own question: Tachyon has an inner core inside of the braided core that the Yale ropes do not have. Dealing with that seems to be the only difference. I still think the TreeU splicing video is helpful to me. I've done less than a dozen eye splices, so still very much a beginner!
 
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ATH

Well-Known Member
Location
Ohio
I'm slow to admit defeat...but I cut 2' off of the end and will try again another day. The final bury just wasn't moving anymore. At all. Had a little over an inch to go.
 

RBJtree

Well-Known Member
Location
Pittsburgh
My first attempt with the scion was Saturday. I only had a few minutes to try it and couldn't get a fid thru the jacket for the core bury without pulling the tape and core off the fid. I think it needs a wire fid, there is no room for a tubular fid. Its only my 4th double braid splice. The other three were stable braid and it was deceptively easy.
 

ATH

Well-Known Member
Location
Ohio
I used a wire fid to pull the core bury. That would have been tough with a regular tubular push fid. It was not easy...but I got that one with the wire.
 

RBJtree

Well-Known Member
Location
Pittsburgh
I'm going into my shop a couple minutes early today to give it another try. I don't have a wire fid, hopefully a 1/16 tig rod will work.
 

Santiago Casanova

Well-Known Member
Location
Sink Hole
My first attempt with the scion was Saturday. I only had a few minutes to try it and couldn't get a fid thru the jacket for the core bury without pulling the tape and core off the fid. I think it needs a wire fid, there is no room for a tubular fid. Its only my 4th double braid splice. The other three were stable braid and it was deceptively easy.

A wire fid is the way to go. I use #14 THHN copper wire. I use electrical tape to fasten the core to the wire.

Try using a 5 to 1 or a winch and tension your splice between two anchors. While under tension, use a prussik to milk the over back to the throat of the splice.
 

ATH

Well-Known Member
Location
Ohio
Thanks for the tip @Santiago Casanova. I did try pulling it with a vise (backing that out while the rope was anchored on the work bench). I'm wondering if I had everything too jammed up in there before I got that that point??? I wasn't budging at all. I spend 10 minutes watching a BB game wiggling it back and forth to try to loosen the fibers, then pulled it...no movement what so ever. That is when I threw in the towel!
 

ATH

Well-Known Member
Location
Ohio
It may be your measuring was off and there wasn’t enough cover left.
Very possible that my measuring was off. Nick gave slightly different measurements on the TreeU video than the written instructions. I followed the written - figured it was specific to that rope...but that doesn't mean I didn't make a mistake!

I was able to milk some cover up from the knot, but couldn't get it to pull over the crossover or the eye to get pulled in. Thinking about that possibility though, there wasn't a lot of cover left, so maybe that was my problem.
 

gdawg90985

New Member
Location
Randolph
This is as far as I've gotten unfortunately. Tried the MA and prussik milking suggestion, but I think I'm missing something. Any suggestions?
 

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Brocky

Well-Known Member
Location
Michigan
I’m guessing the abrupt change in diameter from the core bury may be causing the problem. It looks like the taper could have been more gradual to allow the cover to slid over it.
Also the core in the eye gets pulled down into the splice, jamming things, and needs to be pulled out periodically.
 

ATH

Well-Known Member
Location
Ohio
Kinda put this on the back burner/forgot about it waiting for my blisters from the last attempt to go away... Gotta try again soon.
 

RBJtree

Well-Known Member
Location
Pittsburgh
I wish I had enough experience to give advice. I got it done with the 11mm scion, but I have only done half a dozen eye splices. I'm still nervous climbing on them. I used a rubberized glove to help grip and pull cover. Lots of bending the throat back and forth between pulls like Nick does with the yale 11.7 in the tree stuff video. I found twisting back and forth while pulling the cover helped too. Oh and it took me way too long. it would have saved me money to pay someone else to do it while I did something I'm better at, like climbing. But hey, it is satisfying and fun to be able to make my own stuff.
 

gdawg90985

New Member
Location
Randolph
I’m guessing the abrupt change in diameter from the core bury may be causing the problem. It looks like the taper could have been more gradual to allow the cover to slid over it.
Also the core in the eye gets pulled down into the splice, jamming things, and needs to be pulled out periodically.
Any idea what I should be going for on taper length?
 

Brocky

Well-Known Member
Location
Michigan
I like New England Rope’s long fid, around 2/3 of a fid length, rather than Samson’s short fid bury for a more gradual taper, and start tapering right after the eye.
You should be able to take the splice apart and redo the taper.
 

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